With one quote I can't tell you if it's fair or not fair. Your room might be excessively cut up. They might be trying to match an existing texture. The drywall might have to be carried up a flight f stars versus being boomed through a window. So it's tough to analyze their bid. With three quotes you'd have a better idea with the built-in bracketing that multiple bids. I can tell you that here in CT crews get around $30-$35 per sheet to hang, tape, mud, and sand drywall. That includes fasteners, mud, tape, and labor. Drywall itself you can generously ballpark at $10 per sheet. I've never done texturing so I can't offer an opinion on that. I've never bid primer as a stand alone item, so the same there. So is $1800 high? It would be were it just a drywall/tape/mud job. But there might be some quirks with the texturing, there might also be a premium in that it is remodeling versus new construction. Best, Mongo

Real estate is so local - if you are doing this to help a future sale, definitely ask a good local realtor. In my area for resale I would put a (Kohler) frameless, recessed medicine cabinet centered above the sink. (I have finally rid my home of vanity-width mirrors - I agree with PP about watching yourself 'go,' and at least mine seemed dated (but probably b/c the rest of our baths were dated. I see no benefit to a mirror and then cabinet to the right: too cluttered for me (and why clean all that mirror?); and to get anything out of the medicine cabinet you have to reach over the toilet). For resale I'd definitely go simple, uncluttered and white for everything difficult to change. Unless the shower is about 5.5' long or more, I'd omit the built in seat and grab bar for resale unless the seat is inexpensive. (I am personally installing grab bars b/c I want them.) Get a cute colorful lightweight shower stool (amazon has a great one - we got green) for about $20 and remove it for open houses - it will make the shower look bigger. OH - and 1 item that doesn't cost more and is so great for you (and at least some buyers who know of it): if you are going to use glass on the shower stall, have the plumber put the on/off handle close to the entrance so you don't get wet when you turn it on. Then put the diverter (fixed/handheld transfer valve) under the shower heads. I always think its a miss when I go to a flip/spec house and they put the controls under the shower heads. And do 2 recessed shower niches on the shower walls so the bottles etc. are hidden from the view of the room (1 on wall w/toilet, one to left of shower heads). Will look less cluttered in a small bathroom. (FYI This will take planning at framing and rough plumbing stage. Alot of planning - like have your Ready-Niches on site before then. Ask me how I know...) But, again, real estate is so local so what I say could mean 0 to your area.

American Standard and Kohler websites have "Suites" or "Collections" of coordinating tubs, toilets and sinks, and coordinating bath and shower fixtures. They have collections from relatively inexpensive to expensive. Kohler also has "Sterling" which is a budget line. Some things like solid surface shower or bath walls (Swanstone, or Vikrell) or solid shower pans may cost more upfront but will be cheaper to install and usually easier to maintain. Plain 4x4 or 3x6 tile by Daltile or American Olean is relatively inexpensive. They also make relatively inexpensive mesh mounted porcelain mosaic for floors. If you choose the same products for each bathroom that will make it easier and you can customize each bath with paint and accessories. For the shower/bath combo a curtain will be cheaper than a glass door.

@Gargamel, Yes, some weight over 300LB. but a regular framed floor can support the weight. I did a complete house renovation a while back, and when we demoed the bathroom with a tub over 400LB (I asked my scrap guy to weight the tub separately just out of curiosity to find out how heavy it was) and about 1 1/2" concrete as sub-base for the tile and after removing everything this is what we found under the floor. All the joists were cut up for plumbing which ran in every direction. If not the 1x6 sub-floor and the solid blocking that floor would caved in from all that weight.