Q: To My Fellow Country Folks - The Perfect Home On Average Or Farm
ksiemens123
3 years ago
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ksiemens123
3 years agodoc5md
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Home Make Over HFGH Style
Comments (5)Shelf supports: 2 2x4's set on edge (8 feet long) supported in a "sandwich" of 2 2x4's 32" high at either end of the HFGH. This brings the great covered grating exactly to standard kitchen counter height. Shelves are easily removed in 2 four foot sections. I used untreated 2x4 because with the plastic drip pans underneath we can let excess water drain off - and I did not want the chemicals in treated wood dripping on any plants we might set below. We have the 2 6' greenhouse benches that HF sells for the 6x8 HFGH as well. They are "spares". Insulation: Exterior panels are simply wedge fit. They have been in daily on/off use for over a month and are working perfect even in 20-30 mph wind. Our HFGH is protected by a Northside 8' fence and the house. Interior insulation. North wall, bottom - wedge fit 4x8 insulatin trimmed to (I think) about 44 inches tall. North wall ceiling - the extra bolts you are instructed to add in some of the Garden web HFGH construction posts are simply popped through the insulation at the ridge rafter. Bolts: The underside of the roof rafters has a track in it. If you ever want to hang plants inside, during construction you need to slide a nut with abolt attached down that channel before assembling the roof rafter to the ridge and side walls. We used 2" x 13/16 eye bolts which will take the hooks from most hanging baskets. These eye bolts are popped through the insulation and turned 90 degrees to the face of it - hold it up fine. For "personal or detailed responses" please include your personal email - it is a pain finding this thread on Gardenweb! Hard to add photos to the photobucket series as doing so will knock the logical order of the slides all to simthereens Happy thanksgiving Steve & Kathy Wisconsin...See MoreSooner Plant Farm
Comments (41)"In the course of this discussion, I stated early that the businesses that have adapted root enhancing containers, be they rootmakers or grow bags, have done so as a means of product differentiation and competitive advantage. Support those businesses if it suits your fancy. Or don't." No nursery that I have been to in Arkansas uses anything BUT plastic containers. So it really is all or nothing. Now, I can say, if I walked into a new nursery, I would be more likely to buy something because solely because they use root enhancing pots! That would really get my attention in a good way especially after buying and planting a lot of stock from the local nursery. I have not planted a single tree from this nursery, and I've planted around 30 from this place, that was not at least somewhat pot bound. I have had much better luck getting plastic potted plants from online sources that are not nearly so pot bound surprisingly enough. What would you suggest I do in this case? Ask the nursery to change their ordering? Unfortunately, since they are the only shop in town, they get all the business, commercial and residential, and won't listen to any requests I make. I can't even get them to try and find bnb trees for me in fall and spring. It's what they've got in the lot or nothing. Their loss, as I've spent around $500 and driven over an hour away to get what I want from someone else. Not to mention much more that I have bought online instead of asking them to order it for me and, I'm sure, even paying a little extra for their trouble (which should just be "cost of doing business"). Perhaps, I've been turned off by my experience with the local nursery and stereotype others nurseries as not giving a crap about me or the longevity of my plants. But I hear about this happening at other places to other people, too so just how bad is it? Otherwise, I don't know why you refuse to admit, despite numerous testimonials and evidence to the contrary, root enhancing containers are superior to smooth sided plastic. Put the operational cost aside. They produce more feeder roots and reduce the amounts of circling of roots. I have not found any circling roots out of one yet, actually. And businesses like soonerplantfarm have made the switch. Yes, I have ordered from them before. No one says it has to be overnight, but at least show me some effort (directed at any local nursery that wants my repeated business)! John...See MoreHelp me pick a new landscape design for the front of my house
Comments (11)Thanks for the additional photos, Michael. I am assuming that you haven't a huge amount of gardening experience, so I'll apologize in advance if I am telling you things that you already know. My personal preference overall would be to plant the entire area out to the concrete walkway and widen the bed around the corner wider as well, for at least part of the distance down the side. That might a good place for the hydrangeas. I would also use shrubs along with perennials (and a few annuals if you want extra color or to fill in until the perennials and shrubs get bigger) to get some variety similar to what you have now. About your current beds: I notice black plastic(?) or landscape fabric in your bed under the mulch unless you have pulled it out since the photos were taken. As someone who made that mistake earlier in my gardening years and also inherited it from the previous resident of my current house, I don't think that you want to continue that as it will interfere with how the soil "lives." It will restrict water and oxygen exchange and cause all kinds of problems down the road when it starts to decompose and when the plants start growing roots into it. If you want more info or opinions, go to the one of the following forums and put "landscape fabric" into the search at the bottom of the thread listings: landscape design, perennials, and perhaps shrubs. Your bark or wood chip mulch is great, since it will help keep moisture levels even and suppress weeds. If you want something under it to further help prevent weed growth, corrugated cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper work well to suppress weeds without the problems caused by landscape fabric. I generally put down cardboard or newspaper and then at least 3 inches of mulch on top of that in all my shrub and perennial beds. What you can plant will depend on how much organic matter you are able and willing to put into your sandy soil. Gardenweed has given you a fine list of plants that in general do well in drier situations, though a few (lLobelia cardinalis/cardinal flower, Delphinium, peonies, Campanula/bellflower and Siberian iris) will do better in somewhat richer, less dry soil. If you have access to lots of organic matter through a town composting program, a nearby farm with composted manure, lots of old leaves, or some similar source, or if you have the money to buy a large quantity of compost, then dig in more than you think is needed into the first several inches up to a foot of the bed and you will have a wider range of plants to choose from. Tree oracle suggested conifers (good for winter interest so there aren't just dead sticks there) and roses, specifically Knockouts, which are long-blooming, disease resistant, and not fussy at all from everything I've read (no personal experience.) I grow the following roses: John Davis (large bush or short climber), Lady Elsie Banks, a white double rugosa, Rosa mundi, and a no ID that is common at old farmhouses here. I don't fuss with any of them other than to knock Japanese beetles into a can of soapy water while I wander through the garden early morning before work, though many are once-bloomers that are finished before the beetles emerge. No disease problems on any of them. Some other plants that will like or tolerate a relatively dry bed beyond Gardenweed's list include Nepeta/catmint, creeping thyme, alchillea/yarrow, calluna/heather (though not right next to the concrete foundation since it likes acidity) which is actually a short fine-textured shrub that can have colorful foliage, lavender, penstemon, Thermopsis caroliniana/carolina lupine (though not a lupine - similar to Baptisia), many of the veronica, hemerocallis/daylily. Most of these won't mind a bed with better soil also. Some plants that need somewhat better soil include perennial geraniums, dianthus/pinks (which aren't all pink in color), crocosmia, Iberis sempervirens/candytuft, tall phlox (get a mildew resistant type), Thalictrum rochebrunianum/lavender mist meadow rue. I can see a clematis on an obelisk looking great here, maybe behind the shrub on the corner where it will get some of the extra moisture from the downspout, but not be in its path. I also really value spring bulbs for early color and have found that if I plant them at the deepest end of the recommendation they seem to need dividing less often. I have daffodils that are probably 10 years old and haven't needed dividing yet - they still bloom prolifically. Just plant them where perennial foliage will hide the withering daff foliage. I also have reticulated iris (bought from Brent and Becky's bulbs on the web since they aren't common locally) which are budded up at the base of my foundation now and will be done blooming by mid-April before the daffs even start. I love seeing flowers in March! Both these don't mid dry summer soil at all. A couple of non-evergreen shrubs that will be fine in average soil include weigela (several shorter varieties with colored or variegated leaves) and spirea. Your neighbor's rhododendrons seem to be doing okay, and there are some shorter varieties such as PJM 'Checkmate' that hasn't cleared 3 feet in my garden. Conifers such as junipers ( get a short variety), birdsnest spruce, or one of the short varieties of Chamaecyparis would probably do well here or even one of the miniature Colorado blue spruce/Picea pungens. To get specific suggestions of types, try the conifer forum, the rhododendron forum, or the shrub forum. I often go to nearby nurseries to see what they have, read labels, take copious notes, go home and do internet research, and then go buy based on what is available that fits my needs. Some general things to consider in planning your bed. -Think about a way to have your hose holder be a bit less visible; either paint it to match the siding or move it out of sight behind a shrub or around the corner. Right now its contrasting color makes it grab attention. -Do your soil prep before you bring home plants. In general, the better your soil, the better the garden will be and the easier to care for. That extra organic matter will help hold moisture and nutrients rather than letting them trickle on through the soil. Add enough and the hydrangeas might even be happy here. -Plant things near the downspout that won't mind a bit of extra moisture, and maybe put several rocks right in front of the concrete catcher to break the water's force before it gets to the garden. -Think about leaf shape, size, color, and texture. There won't always be lots of perennials blooming, so foliage that offers variety and interest will keep things looking nice even when there aren't lots of flowers. -Plant lower things below the windows unless you want them blocked. I have used annual vines (scarlet runner beans) on strings over western windows to help keep the house cooler, but generally don't like to spend time trying to keep the plants away from the windows, so plant things with lower height there. -Most gardens look better with not just one of this and one of that - have some repetition, whether it is of foliage color, specific plant, flower color, though I have seen gardens that are an absolute riot of variety that still look lovely. Your current garden with the two hydrangeas and the several lobelia (?) have variety of height and foliage texture, but related flower color and more than one of each specific plant. - Look for gardens you like in your neighborhood or as you walk and drive around. Look now as well as during gardening season so that you can decide about what you want your garden to look like in winter. Often gardeners will be more than happy to ID plants for you if they are outside and you can get a sense of what you like. Your local library may have books that talk about garden design or have lots of eye candy (my favorite!) to look at now. One good one (but not huge amounts of eye candy) is The Well-Designed Mixed Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. Have fun and let us know how it goes....See MoreHelp: Photo Shoot at MY house THIS week!
Comments (153)I already commented on this house, and came back later to look more and read more. Beautiful. But I am very disappointed to read all the comments directed at the person who gave an unflattering review. I was hoping people would ignore and let it go, but since that's not happening, I'm going to throw something out here. Sooner is a class act. She did an awesome job with her home, she asked for help tweaking, and she took some advice. She also.........ignored those who either didn't share her taste or were having an 'off' day. Some here should do the same. Sooner does not need defending, most who posted seem to love what she's done. And I think it is most unkind to mock someone else's decorating, no matter what the provocation. If I say I hate Sooner's kitchen, will 20 people look up my kitchen and tell me how ugly it is? Not nice, guys. Give it a rest, please. Most sincerely directed at a lot of people I have grown to enjoy and respect... Red...See Moredoc5md
3 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
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