Rose, Plain old Slug-Go has always taken care of my pillbugs and sow bugs, and we have literally thousands of them in/under the heavy mulch in late winter/early spring. When I plant seedlings, I put a little ring of a few granules of it around each seedling...it doesn't take much. This year I didn't lose a single vegetable seedling of any kind to pill bugs or sow bugs. However, I did lose about a dozen small marigold plants to the pill bugs during a rainy spell from the end of April to mid-May when it was raining daily and I did not keep reapplying the Slug-Go. I'll add that Slug-Go is supposed to remain effective even after rain, but my garden is on a fairly steep slope, so I think mine my wash away or at least leach out of the raised beds and wash dow into the paths, so I repply it often in rainy periods. There is an improved version of Slug-Go called Slug-Go Plus that is labeled for use on pillbugs and sowbugs. It has the iron phosphate that's found in the original plus Spinosad, which is a naturally occurring bioinsecticide. I've used it, too, and it has kept the numbers of pill bugs and sow bugs manageable. They never completely go away, but I seldom see damage from any of them. In general, they are only a pest in my garden and landscape during the rainy spring season. We are very dry here....generally in drought.....most of the summer months and their population probably mostly abandons our garden and landscape for the cooler, more moist woodlands that sit to our house's west, north and south. Pure food-grade diatomaceous earth is not easy to find in stores, and I think it is getting harder to find because some companies are now carrying a DE product that has a chemical insecticide added to it and some retailers carry that instead of the natural, organic version. I used to buy it in big tubs (the size of Tidy Cat buckets) when I lived in Texas, but can't find it here in OK. So, I mail order it from an online company. I order 5 or 10 lbs. at a time and it lasts forever. I've linked below the company from which I have purchased DE in the past. I've been very happy with this company. They ship quickly and their customer service is great. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Harvest Supply's DE Page

Thank you for your thoughts on the chairs so far. Here is an update: First off, I should confirm that I am from the UK... so I'm guessing that these chairs are too. Secondly, my best guess is that they come from a place in England called "High Wycombe" and were made by William Bartlett and his company. Why do I think this? On closer examination I noticed that every chair has similar marking on its underside, including the image of an archer and the name 'strongbow' (see image below). All four chairs also have the phrase "REGD" stamped on them (the 'D'is superscripted) and two chairs also have numbers stamped on them (519950) and stamped initials 'WJE'. Googling Strongbow and furniture I came across the name William Bartlett. Indeed a search to one site revealed a logo which seemed to be of a very similar shape and stance to the stamp on the chair Web link 1. Also, a search on google maps suggest that the old premises of the company on Grafton Street in High Wycombe also displayed a similar logo Web link 2. A little more searching turned up a document from the High Wycombe council website which suggested that the 'Strongbow range dates at least to 1965 Web link 3. Now, if this is the case then I assume the chairs are reproductions in an arts a craft style and are not original pieces. Anyway. What do you all think? Does this sound plausible to you? Thanks in advance for your thoughts, time and effort.

I would like to thank those of you who keep checking back to this thread. I hate to start new ones when I have new info on the subject and I just add it to the existing thread. Enduring, I have not checked for ADA absolute clearances and recommendations yet. I suppose I should. I was just thinking the more floorspace, the better, the easier to reach the sink, the better. I am more likely to spend time with my rollator walker - a walker with a seat. I fear the bathroom is not big enough for actual ADA recommended clearances. I recently measured the room and will be drawing it up soon. I am a graph paper and pencil gal! I may have to buy design software for this remodel, though. Noopd, I went back and reconsidered the V and B sink on your recommendation. I see that the only model with two faucets is the 47.5" long one. That does not leave me with room for counterspace next to the sink. I am thinking that I will keep the sink to around 30 to 36 inches in a 48" vanity. I am also really loving the integral backsplash of the Kohler Brockway. I hate the splashy mess behind the faucet that DH or I sometimes make. I spent a lot of time yesterday online looking at vintage sinks. I did get one idea, but it was for a two-bubbler drinking fountain. It would have required that the faucets be too far to the front, pointed backward toward the backsplash. a bit. That was going to be too awkward, even for me! I am back to the Brockway. Then I spent a lot of time looking for a dresser to mount it into. I found this one, below. It is 21" deep, which is about what we have now. I was hoping to save space. But since the piece curves in down at the floor level, it might could maybe work. It looks plenty sturdy. I could imagine modifying the bottom two drawers to allow for plumbing, and I expect to lose the top drawers entirely. The piece is 42" wide, so a Carerra marble top with 3 inch overhang on each side would give us 6 inches of space each side of the sink. I also would be mounting the sink just a bit proud (so the belly of the sink protrudes in the front a couple of inches, like a farm sink). That would give us 5 or 6 inches behind the sink for the water supply plumbing (no real wall mount for that!) and I would use the marble to make a raised "box" ledge behind the Brockway backsplash, going the whole 48" length of the counter. That is the extra counter space we need. Above the sink I would do twin medicine cabinets for toiletry storage, perhaps with inset tiled niches on the outer side of the med cabs, so DH and I each have a place for additional storage. I would also like to find 1 ft wide twin cabs, maybe about 42" tall and 8 to 10 inches deep for us to have for storage on either side of the dresser vanity. I am thinking of painting all of the cabinetry. Maybe white. I want to do a classic black and white tile look, black and white mosaic tile floor in either an octagon in white with black dots, or a white spiral with black dots. Wall tile in white up to the bottom of the one window, with the window itself wrapped in black tile. Black curved baseboard and chair rail molding in tile. Bathtub in white tile with black trim and niches. Maybe with all that white, the dresser needs to be a glossy black. Today, I am going to check out the old medical furniture place in Chicago. I love little drawers in dentistry and medical furniture. I also love white enameled cabinetry. Here is a link that might be useful: Craigslist ad for dresser with more pix

We are pursueing an unusual route. We have what was a somewhat grandish 1882 home that is a mixture of Second Empire and Eastlake. Typical for the time, the back rooms (including the kitchen) were not finished to anywhere near the standard of the front (public) rooms. All the trim, moldings, floorings, hardware etc are/were several grades lower. Trying to recreate such a kitchen would seem fun for a museum, but not practical for the 21st century. And trying to create a muddle left us uninspired. Then we asked ourselves this question: What if, in 1882, they valued and utilized their kitchens as we do today? What if the kitchen was meant to be public and just as grand as the rest of the house? What would it have looked like? That question now forms our basis for design. We found the drawing below for a great ceiling and were able to order a replica, which we finally got installed about a month ago (lots of work!). We will do the floor in the Victorian style tiles from the Tile-Source. This week my wife is applying Venetian Plaster to the walls from Vasariplaster in BM August Morning, so that covers the large surfaces. The cabinets I am building and designing myself (thank God for Sketchup!), and they will be highly ornamental in the original Aesthetic Movement style, with no toe kicks and inset doors, ect. Crown Point has been an inspiration, but we are taking the design a lot further than they do in really trying to recreate period furniture/cabinet design. The idea is that upon viewing a person might reasonably think the cabinets are original to the house, with the exception that such cabinets were not built in kitchens at the time. It's all a bit risky, but it is exciting and we have our fingers crossed! Here is a link that might be useful: Tile Source