New Floors VS existing in Kitchen remodel?
azrae61
3 years ago
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new roof penetration vs. longer duct for existing vent
Comments (1)"It's 30% less duct run, but does that translate directly into 30% increase in hood efficiency?" The short answer is no, assuming "efficiency" meant "flow rate." The longer answer is that if the pressure losses in the ducting and from exiting the roof vent and from entering the hood aperture and from passing the hood filter are known as a function of flow rate, and the fan curve providing flow rate capability as a function of the pressure loss across the fan is available, then you can evaluate actual cfm as a function of how negative you will allow the house pressure to get. In other words, the duct losses are only a portion of the equation. They may dominate in some cases, but even then the fan curve must be known to make an evaluation. In the hope of making this clearer, assume that the abscissa of a graph is flow rate, and the ordinate is pressure drop across the fan. A conceptually idealized fan would be plotted as a straight vertical line at the fan's rated flow rate to some high pressure drop and then follow some monotonic curve to the ordinate where there is no flow rate. Alternatively, if a fan were to lose flow rate by 30% for 30% more pressure loss, the curve would be an inverse function (concave curve). Real fan curves are better than inverse functions, and better than straight-line functions between rated cfm and maximum pressure loss, but not square shaped. Hence, without the curve available, and some estimate of the other pressure losses, flow cannot be determined. (I once found example fan curves somewhere on Broan-NuTone's web site. They should provide some insight. Note that the curves will vary in shape with fan design.) kas...See MoreNew spliced in floor doesn't match existing after refinishing
Comments (19)We don't have any plans to put a rug in where the transition area is. The area rug we had in there before was on the old wood side. There really won't be anything covering that space. On the step up area (which you don't really see in the picture), we also had some new wood laced in with the old (from the removal of a pony wall). The wood flooring extends from the end of the tile in the kitchen through the rest of the house. There are 2 boards width plus the step down edge and they actually blend a bit better. I assume part of the problem is the large space. @Jan Moyer - this is a great room, and other than the tile kitchen, the rest of the house is wood flooring (sans bathrooms). The step does suck, but we're living with it. The potential to change the stain on the great room floor would accentuate that there is a level change. There are, what I believe, are sander marks anyway, so re-sanding probably needs to happen. Going with some test stain patches is the best way forward I think. At least we'll have a better idea of what we'll have to live with. I'm just hoping we can get some warmth in the floor color without the more dramatic transition change (it is a bit more than what the picture shows but the picture does demonstrate the change)....See MoreNew flooring material is thinner vs. existing floors - how to handle?
Comments (6)The 'lowering' of floors is just as tough as RAISING the floor heights. Sigh. There are ways to deal with the trim (as G S states). It is not usually advisable to install wood DIRECTLY over top of concrete. There are ways to do it...but it all depends on SOOOOO much stuff that it makes the average flooring person's HEAD SPIN. Now imaging the headache that would come from someone just entering the world of flooring (like a new homeowner). If you move to laminate (yes...laminate can be VERY high end...and out perform low-level vinyl) you could add in cork underlayment to RAISE the floors back to the wood/tile levels. But vinyl is NOT ALLOWED this type of treatment. Of course you could increase your budget and work with the 8-10mm thick vinyl/WPC/SPC products. They are double the price but they are also double the thickness. As for NOISE going underneath the doors, you can always add a door sweep on the back of the door so that noise does not intrude when the door is closed. Rehanging doors is a pain. Super duper pain. As in "rip my eyes out" PITA! Being a cork flooring person, I would work with a 12mm (1/2") cork floating floor and I would add 3mm (1/8") or 6mm (1/2") cork underlay to get the new floor back up to the height it used to be. Sadly vinyl doesn't allow you to do that. Sigh....See MoreKitchen Cabinet Remodel Design Help! Light vs Dark, Inset vs. Overlay
Comments (20)“That mix of grease and dust was the worst cleaning job I've ever had. I would never design a gap between cabinets and ceiling, unless I felt positive I would always have the money to pay a cleaning service.” @mcarroll16 - it sounds like there was no proper hood exhaust in your parents’ kitchen. I have 9’ ceilings, and on one wall the cabinets meet the ceiling, and on another wall I have 42” upper cabinets, 3” crown and a gap to the ceiling. I place wax paper up there (it’s the perfect width) to collect any dust or grease that might float up there, and twice a year, when I change smoke alarm batteries, I pick up the wax paper and put down new. Many times I just leave the wax paper there because it is so clean it does not need to be changed. I have a good hood exhaust. With a good hood exhaust, you would not have had such a cleaning chore in your parents’ home. It is quite expensive to take cabinets to meet a 9’ or 10” ceiling. Many people would rather invest in a good hood and correct ductwork for it. Indoor air quality is more important than ever these days....See Moreazrae61
3 years agoazrae61
3 years agoDiana Bier Interiors, LLC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoazrae61 thanked Diana Bier Interiors, LLC
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