Main Flooring Question . . . Porcelain Tile or LVP?
Gretchen Montgomery
3 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agocalidesign
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about slate or porcelain tile flooring for dogs
Comments (1)Slate is relatively soft and will scratch with dog nails. I'd look at porcelain look alikes for much better wear, with epoxy grout. That's a lifetime floor. With underfloor heating. In your climate, consider hydronic radiant heating, possibly geothermal. That will give you the heat at body level, and make the dogs very happy. Mannington Serengeti Slate is one product that I've used and been very happy with it's resemblence to natural slate, and it's resistance to wear and tear.It comes in a couple of colors, but my favorite is the Midnight. Here is a link that might be useful: Serengeti Slat at Mannington...See MoreWood tile floors, cork floors, porcelain floors?
Comments (32)Prior to our 07 remodel, we had cork floors in kitchen, DR, entry and adjoining powder room for 18 years. I loved this floor! We didn't treat it with much care and didn't receive care information when the cork floors were installed. So, they received a far amount of water when washed, no added finishes or refinishing. We also have a 22 pound dog who managed to scratch up a lot of woodwork around window areas. The floors held up well. If you'd look close (like eyes a foot away), you could see many scratches from a variety of sources. The excess water caused some seams to curve up a little (only noticeable with bare feet). I really wanted to put in new cork floors, but, got talked out of it by a KD who said colors/patterns weren't right for our new look. We put in porcelain tiles and standing on them hasn't yet been a problem. I probably don't stand on them for more than 90 minutes at a time. If I were to put in cork again, I'd use the floating kind and panels or planks. When replacing the old cork floor, everyone was predicting big problems if we had to deal with glued down panels. The old floor came up easy because no glue. Cork is much more forgiving on uneven subfloors than tile. It took about a days work to even out the subfloor for tile (involved replacing some plywood and a lot of sanding). One of my friends just put in a high end glued down cork tile and they now wish that they had gone with the floating option....See Morewould you do solid hardwood main level and LVP upstairs???
Comments (5)I’ve had real wood/carpet, laminate and now LVP in my upstairs area (which my dog refers to as “her toilet”). Neither of the first 2 combos held up to her wrath, but so far, the LVP is going strong. Let me tell you, there’s a lot of hate on LVP and I know why, and for us, budget was not a concern so we bought the highest end LVP we could find, and it was as expensive as engineered wood when we were done upgraded the padding and what not. I would NOT put this on a main floor, it looks good but not THAT good, but for us it was for the durability and the fact that I really don’t want to change it out a 3rd time! Yes I’m selling in a couple of years, but with how nice it looks it will certainly not deter buyers. Homes in our area definitely use it (we’re in south Florida around lots of humidity, so it’s either porcelain tile or LVP). Do what is best for your family and needs....See MoreLaminate / LVP Flooring Layount/Design Question
Comments (0)Hi. We're working on a flooring plan for the new house we're building. The layout is in the attached image. The red areas are for laminate / LVP (haven't fully decided which yet). Green is carpet. Light blue is tile. The bathrooms and kitchen will likely have sheet vinyl. My question is how to transition "around the corner" from the section labeled "Dining" to the hallway going "up and down"? It is my understanding that laminate / LVP should be laid parallel to the longest wall (thus left to right in the image). However, in the hallway, it should run the length of the hall (thus up and down in the image). Would we cut the pieces to end at 45's along the green/red intersection? Would it be ok to just right left to right shorter planks in the hall to maintain "flow"? Is the long run from the far right mudroom to the green/red intersection too long w/o a transition strip? We're thinking about DIYing this, BTW. Thanks for your consideration....See MoreMelissa R
3 years agoHU-161159613
3 years agoSuper Lumen
3 years agoGretchen Montgomery
3 years agoGretchen Montgomery
3 years agodan1888
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agochispa
3 years ago
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