Technically, "cinder blocks" are concrete masonry units made with lightweight aggregates. 1,900 PSI is the minimum compressive strength standard for light-weight normal-weight CMUs that meet ASTM C90. Higher strengths are usually only specified by engineers and installed by masons so are not sold in do-it-yourself stores. 1,900 PSI is a net strength which means it is the allowable load divided by the cross-sectional area of the block minus the voids. The gross compressive strength is probably closer to 1,000 PSI. Of course, the bearing capacity of a CMU wall must also take into consideration the compressive strength of the mortar used and what percentage of the voids are filled and with what kind of grout. The complexity of structural design with CMU requires it to be a professional rather than an amateur activity in most parts of the country.

Re. frost line: Since what my mason is doing is basically a dry stack wall; from here: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/lawns-landscaping-outdoor-decor/451549-frost-line-retaining-wall.html#b A dry stack wall does not matter. The joints have enough space to allow this heaving movement. The large spacious joints in a dry stack wall are like expansion joints in other strucures, they will take movement.

@worthy I guess I'm speaking to my experience within the same part of the world as you, so it may differ from others experience where foundations don't need to be as deep below grade (which causes them to become basements more often than not). My answer to the OP took into consideration that he's not doing a full basement and he doesn't care to have the gold standard, an acceptable, lower-cost option would do. Therefore I agree that CMU will be just fine. Certainly poor installation could be done just as crappily on CMU foundation as it could on a poured foundation.When both are installed correctly, I would judge a poured foundation to be able to do a better job of resisting lateral pressure causing cracks which cause foundation leaks. Maybe I'm wrong, but my experience tells me CMU foundations crack more often and the Building Code tables would seem to infer they can withstand less unsupported lateral height (ie: they're weaker)

"I wont let my children play with the neighbors kids because I dont like their house" lol. And this here is the problem - you totally miss the point, which has been discussed ad nauseam. The house is NOT the problem per se, but the inhabitant of it who comes in like a bull in a china shop and demands HER way and has a "to hell with everyone else" mentality. THAT is who I would not want my kids to spend a lot of time around. I like to be friends with my kids' friends' parents and friendship involves mutual respect and accommodation. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ And I'm not saying you shouldn't build your rectangular, cargo-ship-container-looking, CMU block house with a flat roof and metal siding. You most certainly should if that is what you truly want and would be happy with. You just shouldn't build it in an established neighborhood where the structure does not abide by CC&R's (in letter and in spirit) and is a blatant disregard for the culture already established in that neighborhood. Whether or not you believe it should be so, there are cultural and societal norms that people who want to live in harmony with those around them abide by, particularly in a "community." Living this way involves an outlook of doing what is "good for the whole" even if that involves giving up some perceivable "rights." Again, I'm not saying this as an insult because we could never give up our autonomy to live in a subdivision with an HOA. That's why when the subdivisions kept moving nearer our previous home, we decided to "get out of Dodge" and move to the farm :)