Yes, it is on the tub deck that extends into the shower. We spoke with the marble guy today and although he says that they noticed it was not sloping as expected (ie towards the shower floor), it is the responsibility of the carpenter to buld the tub surround with the slope. What I think really stinks is that they did not even mention the slope issue to me during installation and that it's not even level! Shouldn't they be responsible to at least ensure that the slab is installed completely level? The contractor says the marble installers are to blame since the tub surround is built level and the installers can manipulate the pitch by the way they install the slabs. The marble installers are telling me it will cost $900 to fix since they will most likely ruin the slab when they remove it (it's in 4 pieces). What to do?

I have the BR111 Amendoim brazillian cherry and it is beautiful. It's glued down to the slab. It has the aluminum oxide coating, but it scratches if you look at it too long. I used to have real hardwood planks in my 1920's home. Give me that again any day. It did not scratch as easily as this engineered wood. We chose laminate at first, but our installer came and talked us out of it talking about how the engineered wood would add value to our home later, blah blah. We live in what is now considered a higher end starter home neighborhood. I don't think we'll ever see what we spent if we sell. My main complaint is more installation oriented. There are a few boards that are not totally flush with each other, and you can feel that when you walk barefoot. There is even one area where the floor dipped, and they installed over that, and the board cracked. Luckily not in a noticeable place. Our dogs have been relegated to a life outdoors because of this floor! Sorta wish I had gone with laminate, or gone all out for the real planks instead of engineered.

Hello! I just found this very helpful thread in my search for for ideas/caveats for installing an alcove tub in a wet room/shower enclosure (total enclosure dimensions are 5'6" x 5'0", so the tub could be placed on either wall depending on tub length). This is for a guest bathroom which will be used by guests of all ages, including our ageing parents. My mother in law only takes baths, but father in law only showers and has mobility issues so we want to avoid him having to step into a tub to shower. We want to avoid blowing the budget on the tub itself, so want to avoid cast iron (due to cost and weight), and limited space won't allow for the added width of a tub deck for an undermount/drop-in tub. I did come across the American Standard Studio fold over edge acrylic/fiberglass alcove tub (photo attached), which seems like a decent option to allow us to tile the front apron, but it only comes in 60" x 30" (which is OK, but it would be nice to know if there are any workable 5'6" tubs we could consider). As this thread is 3 years old, I'm wondering what the latest recommendations are for the type of tub to use in a wet room and how to waterproof it. Any ideas appreciated!

Is this an area of flat ceiling that is 6'5" or does it slant down to 6'5" over part if it. In my location if the lowered portion is over counter areas or fixtures and not in areas where one walks, or is a soffit-type drop that doesn't involve the entire ceiling it is sometimes allowable, although 7' is the minimum ceiling height in kitchens and bathrooms in my location, technically. However I live in an area with extremely old and small housing stock where a kitchen and bath were often added as a lean-to type structure on the back of a house that originally did not have one. Alternately some very large houses with high ceilings (commonly 14') on the first floor were lofted with a kitchen above or below and a bath above or below the loft portion, resulting in two areas of ceiling height of about 6'6". These areas are grandfathered in terms of already preexisting conditions and the envelope is grandfathered allowing a remodeled kitchen or bath in the same space. (As long as the undersized structure is sound). I've done and seen done permitted remodels under these conditions. Because if they weren't permitted, lots of housing stock would be "uninhabitable" and the entire lot size would need to be changed in order to build currently fully compliant housing--many lots are too small to build something compliant. Brand new construction of multiple units often demands the demolition of say 5 houses and replacement with 4. I doubt my situation is applicable in many areas but the point is that existing conditions will be grandfathered locally. This would never fly in someplace like California for example So your locale may grandfather some preexisting conditions if they complied at some past time, to avoid the necessity of complete demolition of a portion of the house. (If the structure is sound, otherwise).