Cold-weather... thank you for your thoughful response. I have some comments and questions for clarification, if you don't mind: If you’re thinking of raising the deck, a deck-cabinet gap can be concealed far easier than the tub-deck gap, but the deck is hard in the wall tile, so that's a big bite for the tile installer to eat. >>> You are sooo right about the tile on the deck being against the wall and since the bottom has crackled glass tiles you can't raise the deck tile without it coming against that glass... and that you can't replace just one row of the glass without it messing everything else up. Darn!!! Guess that option is out.Any tub installer who left it that way is a screw up. The tub installer was the ONLY person who was in a position to fix this thing. Since that person did not, that person gets the prize for the ultimate screw up. If he/she could not do a better job, he/she should not have done any job. The entire onus is on the tub guy to do it or to not do it. >>> The really frustrating part is that I have been a part of the process - trying to get them to do it right (I had to tell then that they used the wrong material - drywall instead of mortar... and I only found that out by researching and talking to people). The GC wanted to give them another chance to fix the issue and since it was only putting mortar in, we didn't think they could screw that up (wrong!!!). Now we have a mess. That's a fiberglass/plastic tub with two things to be aware of. One, the feet can be cut, and they can be set in a bed of mud along with the tub belly. They’re wood blocks covered with resin. Two, the top can be scribed, but only by someone far more competent than this guy. That tub should hang by the top rim and sit firmly on the bottom mud at the same time. It should be set in the mud (which could have a separator layer like a plastic bag or a piece of shower liner) with a load of water in it. >>> Unfortunately it is near impossible to get to the back right corner of the tub because it is filled with all kinds of innerworkings of the tub. The good news is that the ONLY corner that lays flat against the tile is that back right corner... so presumably they can work on the other 3 corners. The mortar does have plastic on it now... so I guess that's a good thing.. would they have to take all the mortar out first and then do something with the feet? By scribing do you mean shaving the top of the feet off? (I hate to say this but in the framer took off a couple of the back feet off at one point... because he thought they were part of the shipping material.. not supposed to stay on the tub). And by mud with water... do you mean mortar like shown in the pic? Caulking/sealing/bridging a quarter inch gap is absurd. The sealant is to stop water from seeping, not to stop pencils from rolling. Sealant thickness should be nearly unseen. It has no strength. Cut the tub. Everything points to the tub person being not skilled enough to eat a donut without a bib. Since the top edge of the tub is NOT level, cut! I can’t see how the GC could allow this. >>> Funny that you should mention pencils rolling - I just took a pic tonight to send to the GC and one of the pics showed a pen under the edge. Okay, not funny at all. Thank you for explaining about the sealant and why it has to be fixed. Cut the tub. >>>What do you mean "cut the tub"I'm gathering from everyone that this is a big problem that just has to be fixed.. it's not an aesthetic thing (which is bad enough... that big gap is going to look bad) but I'm going to have a problem down the road...

Thanks Nancy, I did. Is this something I can do myself? It appears that they used some sort of caulking type material instead of shims. Most of the cabinets are sitting fine, but for some reason that end cabinet isn't. It must be due to the fact that it was cut down from a 12". To those of you going over how to do it properly, it's too late to tear anything out, so I am just going to work with what I have. The floor under the cabinets is tile, so it would be difficult to get anything to sit perfectly. I will definitely use a contractor if I ever have another kitchen done. The cabinet installer was very highly rated, but apparently that wasn't accurate. Same for the countertops. This was in a small back house, so a contractor seemed overkill. You live and you learn. Thanks everyone for your help.

"Is this worth asking the installer to remove the countertop and install the bracket from the side? Not sure if this installation method is considered “incorrect” for me to ask.." No need to remove the countertop; just hacksaw the bracket off flush with the cabinet. It's not "incorrect", it's old school and obsolete. Back when tops were plastic laminate with underlayment, dishwashers had flanges at the top which were screwed into the underlayment. This bracket is a stone adaptation to that obsolete world. Saw off the bracket and pull it. If the dishwasher flanges are exposed, break them off. Raise the dishwasher to the bottom of the top and make it flush to the cabinet/panel fronts; screw it through the sides to same.

I’m trying. Unfortunately, i signed off on it. Lesson learned. We‘re adding cabinets next to the fridge to give it room to open and pushing the others down. I’m not sure I prefer a small counter area for a coffee pot or the long cabinets more, but it should help with the fridge issue. They added the fascia and crown to the top of the ceiling as well. After I pointed things out, it seems like they’re wanting to fix as much as they can on the plan. Not wanting to budge on the Dishwasher issue so far because of the plumbing already being done though. Maybe I can change the island without altering the plumbing lines? Going to keep pushing.