Well -- check out The container Store -- and their Elfa collection OR check out California Closet for ideas too! Next -- make lists: How do hang or fold your shirts? How do you hang trousers or pants (double or hanging straight?) How many sweaters do you have? Will this closet handle ALL seasons -- or do you have storage out-of-place for out-of-season wearables? What furniture will you have in the bedroom? (dressers, armoire? a vanity for your jewelery?) What about lighting in the closet? What about having a full-length mirror (and a light?) Do you sit or stand to put on shoes? How many pairs of shoes do you have for each season --- and how do you really like them to be stored??? What about coats and outerwear??? How do store undies? Do you want to be able to dress inside the closet -- or outside in the bedroom OR in the bathroom?? Just a few things to answer that you really help you determine what kinds of infrastructure (Talley Sue's term for shelving, baskets, hanging space etc.) Hope this helps!!!

In Florida I would never have a rose in the front yard because I'm only interested in scented tea ones and I don't use chemicals on mine so you do the math, they look horrible almost always. Aside from Belinda's Dream or a drift or knockout (of which sunny actually looks nice t me) I would expect them to look ratty in our hot+humid climate. If it were me planting something in a pot I would probably plant Senna didymobotrya (I have seen them in person and they really do smell like buttered popcorn! not suitable around children though because it is poisonous and the smell might entice people to nibble it) but I don't think this suits your style lol or Salvia greggii, a Texas sage species that has nice smelling leaves and comes in a variety of colors. They rot in-ground here but the ones in containers do well. I have 'Rose Pink' and I love its fresh almost spring green color and late March through autumn sporadic bloom period. For you I think if the area is partial sun to partial shade a grafted Gardenia (can you tree train them?) or maybe Plumeria (bring indoors in winter) would be cool.

I recently watched a video on this same method of cleaning a walk-in shower. Sounds good so I will be giving it a try. I am moving from a large two-story farm house. My husband and I spent our days caring for the property mostly.We worked on a hedge row, pulling overgrown vines. He would fell the dead trees and saw them to a size he could bucket with his tractor to a burn pile. We cleared two groves of trees where,for years abandoned cars, tractors, everyday trash was dumped. Our son, daughter and a few of our grand children have had their weddings there--they love it. We both enjoyed growing vegetables, potatoes, and flowers. I did all the weed-whacking around the trees and along the hedgerow and roadside ditch. My husband and I tore down plaster walls throughout the house and vacuumed the studs. He opened up rooms, strengthened door and window headers and put in new windows. He did the work, I handed him the hammer and swept up after him. We were getting old so we decided to pay to have the dry wall done throughout the house. We completed one side of the house a year, then proceeded to vinyl one side each year. He was eighty-eight when he finally asked the kids for help. They put up a two garage and then my husband put up the siding as far as he could reach with his arms; I nailed the vinyl up as far as I could with a ladder. Finally, he had to get help from the kids to finish the upper half. We put in all new heat, air, and connected sewers, water line to the house. We loved every day! I am so lost without him and know life will never be the same, too big a house, too much land. My sisters and brothers are all retired, and are very close. I want to be with them--there are too many wonderful memories here. I can't complain, but constantly sad. I have great support from my family and looking forward to better days. Buying a house has been both scary and over-whelming, but it sure will keep me busy making it my home. Fingers crossed, I know I will be needing lots of advice (thank goodness for the Internet).

Some further clarification in answer to your question about how "closely" you need to match pan size to burner size. I'm summarizing years of discussions here; you can search on this topic and gets lots of hits if you want more detailed discussions or discussions about specific brands of ranges and cooktops. Pans smaller than the induction burner diameter: A general rule of thumb here has been that pans will work if they cover at least 60% of the induction burner surface based on its nominal diameter. Some brands publish minimum pan base diameters in their user guides. An example is the LG manual quoted by wdccruise. (You probably already knew about downloading pdf of the guide/manual for any stove or cooktop you are considering but it is helpful to find manuals as specific as the LG one.) We sometimes forget that we have to measure actual pan base diameters; the nominal diameters are always measured across the top of a pan which may not tell you how big or small the base is and it is the base that determines heating with induction.) For stoves and cooktops that mark burners with painted cross-hairs rather than a circle, you may have to check under "specifications" to find out the rated or nominal size. (Can't always tell the size those burners just by looking at them.). Some brands seemingly tune their electronics to require greater coverage of the burner. (I'm recalling some threads from Samsung owners (IIRC) who complained here that their 8" skillets (base diameter) would not work on their stoves' 11" diameter induction burners.) Also, be aware that what works and doesn't can be affected by variations in the amount of magnetic mass of particular pans. For example, posters here have reported that particularly tiny but heavy pans --- such as 3¼" diameter Bialetti stovetop espresso makers and very weighty Demeyere butter warmers --- worked on six-inch diameter induction burners. (IIRC, those reports were for GE and Electrolux induction ranges from several years ago.) OTOH, those tiny Bialetti espresso makers or a stainless measuring cups won't have enough mass to work on most large (say 12" diameter) induction burners. Pans larger than the burner diameter. Generally will work, but how well depends on what you are cooking and, again, you also have to read the manual for the stove or cooktop you are considering. The general rule of thumb here over the years has been that when you want the most even heating of the base, pan bases can overlap by up to an inch or so. OTOH, there are tasks where you don't need perfectly even heating across the base --- boiling a large kettle of water for pasta or lobsters, or deep fat frying, water bath canning, or pressure cooking are examples that come to mind. When you want perfectly even heating in, say, a very large saute pan, you can use it on a smaller diameter induction burner but you have to depend on the pan's construction to conduct heat to areas that lie outside the burner's induction field. Or, you do a lot of stirring to move the food from the less hot areas to the hotter ones. Same story with bridging burners with large roasting pans and big rectangular griddles, too. With those, it is pretty much the same as with gas and radiant electric burners, as well. Do be aware that some stove and cooktop brands (or at least some models) forbid any use of heavy or oversize pots and pans. That's usually thought to be because the company cheaped out on electronics which can't take heat reflected back from the over-size pots' bases or because they tried to cut their production costs by using slightly thinner ceramic-glass tops which won't bear the weight of a large kettle of water. Again, you have to read the manuals/user guides to find out which have those limitations