Sammy, the long boring label is what protects you and your plants. For grassy weeds, I use Ornamec, which is also sold ready to use as Grass B Gone. Crabgrass and Bermuda are my top grassy weeds. Like what Kathy uses, it is totally safe to use over top of most broadleaf ornamentals .... roses included. It's a little freaky the first time you spray a chemical like this without worrying about getting any on your 'good' plants. It takes a while to work, and can require a second application for tough grassy weeds, but they will die and your roses will be fine. Round Up is probably the safest non-selective herbicide out there. ('non-selective, meaning that it kills whatever you spray it on.) Most of the scary literature about Round Up is written about large-scale agricultural use, not homeowner spot-treating. For me, there is nothing better than Round Up for killing broadleaf weeds. I take extraordinary care not to get even a speck of it onto my roses, which means minimal pressure on the sprayer to create a soft coarse spray, and spraying early on the morning on totally windless days. You don't have to soak your target plants ... a little spritz will do the job on most of them. With any chemicals knowledge is the key. Know what you are spraying, how to spray it safely, and how to get the best results from it. I hope you gain the upper hand on your weeds soon. They're awful here, and I'm getting them a little at a time. Pulling and spraying, pulling and spraying .... sigh. Connie

Spectracide Weed Stop is a common broadleaf plant killer containing 2,4,D, Dicambra, and something else that does not come to mind right off. While it is not a really good product to use and while it can also kill plants you want to keep if due care in use is not observed, it is not quite as bad as some others mainly becasue the formulation is not really very strong. It is not quite as bad as maifleur makes the stuff out to be, and the manufacturer will simply tell you there is no problem. The most bestest way to control "weeds" in your lawn is to get that lawn into a good, healthy condition and that starts with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your counties office of your Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you toward a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out "weed" growth so you don't need those poisons. Here is a link that might be useful: CSU CES

I've seen the homemade weed killer spray recipe on social media for quite a while now. Some recipes say to use epsom salts and some say to use rock salt. Neither of which are really necessary. Just spray with straight vinegar on a sunny day and keep it well away from any desirable plants. You'll almost certainly have to spray again though, especially for established perennial weeds, since vinegar just kills the foliage and not the roots (perhaps it might kill the roots if you completely douse the soil with it but that is not advisable). If you can't pull the weeds from around your rock walls I'm going to suggest a propane torch to burn them. Either a big one that connects to a 20# propane tank or use a smaller handheld one meant for soldering pipes. Be very careful when using so you don't burn yourself or start a fire. As with the vinegar, you might have to burn them again if they are established weeds. For large areas you can smother the weeds with paper or cardboard topped with mulch (grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, cocoa bean shells, and the like). Rodney

I mow at least 1x/wk (more in the spring when it is growing faster). The pc I picked was by a fence and I missed it with the trimmer. After further "googleing", it is annual ryegrass. I never had it before so it must have been in the mix that was used to over seed last fall. I probably accelerated it as well because I have been mulching instead of bagging all season. Guess I will just start bagging and plug/slit seed (with better seed) in the fall. Thank you everyone for your input.