Just bought one at Lowes last week. In the lamp/ceiling light section. They had several different widths and styles. Slapped that baby up on the ceiling and you can't tell the difference between real and fake. I didn't even have to paint it! I think the cost was about $5.00. Home Depot probably has the same thing.

You could swag it over, but when you hang the chandelier you'll need to make sure the ceiling area can handle the weight. More than likely, bracing will need to be put in. If the location can be moved, without the need of a junction box, I'd vote for that. Unless you have a popcorn ceiling, most textures can be matched. Paint matching would be another story,.

sasafras, DIY is not an option! We are retired and our kids are probably older than you! Would you like your 75 year old diabetic dad up on a rickety ladder trying to pry off that medallion? I doubt it. The rocks were not a red flag to us. We watched the hammer and 2 x 4's all bounce off that ceiling. Heavy rocks were the only way to break that glass!! Anything that makes this reno move faster is less cost to us, and there are more rocks than weeds on the property!! The two are budget related. Thanks hilltop, for understanding. The house was slightly less than $300,000 in a short sale. Contractor estimated $100,000+, and it is now exceeding $150,000. The house was in much worse shape than we thought. It has good bones and great views. The master is only a piece of the remodel puzzle. The above prices do NOT include decorating. You will all probably get tired of me as I question each room's decor. Thanks! Suzi

You can still move electrical boxes in a modular - I moved the one in the center of the kitchen before we had the house painted, it wasn't going to be anywhere close to the center of the (site-built) island. Also a recessed light that had "wandered" into the family room. But now that we've spent all this money just repainting (the modular factory fixed the cracks for free), DH does not want to tear apart the dining room ceiling and have to repaint all the way into the foyer. Plus, as he reminded me, I wanted the chandelier closer to the front wall because the table would be too close to the china cabinet if we centered it front-to-back in the room. The problem, as I discovered last night after digging through emails to the builder, was that they didn't place the sconces where I wanted them. Not a big deal, I'll move the sconce later if it looks really awful when we put the table in. Some of the cracks were really just bad tape jobs, edge of tape showing. Others were actual cracks factory said my builder should have taken care of before we painted. But my builder was very inexperienced (had just signed with this modular factory we wanted to use, they gave him our territory so we really had no choice). He was just throwing more mud on the cracks without retaping. Once they put the tape on, no more cracks (just some humps). Our old (1988) house had swirled plaster ceilings and skim-coated drywall, but I understand most stick-built houses these days are just sheetrock, flat painted ceilings anyway. We wanted to move in less than a year from when DH got new job, didn't think we'd make it if we stick-built. Plus a lot of my family has done modular, we thought it would be better quality since it was built in controlled conditions. And I couldn't keep an eye on a stick builder living 100 miles away with son still in school. Now, I just dry-mopped the dining room floor and we have a cracked board (splitting from end) 3ft from center. It'll be hidden under the rug. Either the end was split already, or it split when installer hammered it into the pattern (spiraling rectangles). Unless he can split it with a wood chisel, pull out the pieces, and just face-nail the replacement, we'd have to pull out the whole center of the floor (about 12 sf) to get to it. I have a lot of wood left over - should I ask installer to replace that piece?