mydreamhome, thank you very much for your help. I almost decided on the one in the last thread you mentioned until I went to the store. The tile was only $1.19/SF( while the 13x26 one is $3.99/SF). I doubt the quality might not be good. Its listello's width is 10", not compatible with my current tile's width of 13". The raised pattern above has a width of 8". I personally also like these pattern, which look really nice with marble-looking tiles. But most of them are out of stock now. I'll think about the herringbone pattern one you mentioned, and may buy a tile as a sample to compare to the listellos to see how they are together.

Sorry to sound a discordant note, but I personally don't like the French doors at all. I think an arch would be perfect. From the kitchen, the doors seem unnecessary, but more importantly, they would interfere with light unless you added the sidelights, which, as several folks have said, will look pretty busy IRL. But it's the view from the FR that really makes me dislike the doors. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious, and here, the obvious is the fact that you'll have wall after wall after wall of French doors. Together they form an overwhelming block of glass and muntins and frames and grid shapes, with no easy way to soften them (these aren't windows and won't have soft, poofy window treatments). I think they could look even odder IRL. Either you'll have a shade or something on the patio door, and nothing on the others, or you'll leave all three doors nude, which will give you one black door at night and two others that have indoor light behind them. They will look similar, but wrong. Plus, in reality, I find that people actually keep interior french doors closed far less often than they think they will. I think the arch avoids some of these problems. It pierces that corner so that the FR won't feel so much like an isolated addition or a 3-season porch that's been tarted up--instead, it would be connected to the house. And having the curved arch lets you break up that infinite repetition of rectilinear grid, grid, grid without having to add anything. Finally, it will connect the FR and the kitchen with the rest of the house architecturally by repeating a motif you already have. Sorry to add confusion--just my $.02!

The 1.5"-2" counter overhangs are standard and are so your counters extend slightly past your cabinet doors. Standard cabinet BOXES are 24". Then you add the doors/drawer fronts, which brings the cabinets out another inch. So a 1.5" counter overhang means your counter extends about a half inch past your cabinets. That is why we measure aisle widths COUNTER-TO-COUNTER, not box to box. It is a very common mistake that people allot only 24" for the cabinet depth on both sides if a walkway and then are dismayed to find their actual aisle is 3-4" smaller in practice than they'd planned. I have seen super modern kitchens where they install the counters to be exactly flush with the front of the cabinet doors (so roughly a 1" overhang) for aesthetic reasons, but that is a tricky, unforgiving install because ANY variation or un-flush-ness in the cabinet doors throws it off. Also, then the cabinets aren't nearly as protected from liquid and crumbs dripping/falling off the counter. Someone else may chime in with other reasons too, but it's my impression that you definitely want an overhang. We did a 1.5" overhang in our kitchen, and it's adequate, but I wish I'd done 2". I've got a lot of drips down my cabinets, and I definitely wouldn't be sad to have another inch of depth on my peninsula counter.

I prefer the relationship of subject matter in the second option. But, I don't think the pieces are properly scaled. This scaling is more balanced for the wall and the furnishings they top. I took the liberty of swapping out the throw pillows - the white ones were too stark!