The only reason larger specimens dug out of the ground are more affected by the move is that in practice a smaller proportion of roots come away with them, due to the weight and size of the larger balls. Plants in pots will establish quicker than plants in field soil balls for the same reason - the balled and burlapped stock is missing some of its roots. Often there are barely more feeder roots still present on such specimens than on bare-rooted plants overwintered in a cool storage facility. As mentioned, a common variable is that container-grown stock is frequently rootbound and should be bare-rooted at planting. However, unless most of the roots need to be pruned at planting, due to defects there will still be more feeder roots left on the plant than is usual with plants acquired balled in burlap. And these need to be bare-rooted at planting as well, since there was often a period of time spent in a small, confining pot before planting out in a field occurred. And you do not want to install into the final planting site with coarse potting medium or fine field soil on the roots, forming a pocket of different-textured material surrounded by native soil of perhaps quite dissimilar structure. When nursery plants are put in the ground with intact rootballs there can be failures due to movement of water into and out of such rootballs being affected in undesirable ways. In addition to those deformed roots not being resolved. I had foundation shrubs perhaps 20 years in place fall over in the snow one year. When I dug them up they had root knots at the bases of the stems dating way back to when they were left in small pots too long by the production nursery. The most consistent and obvious examples I see here are camellias sent up from certain large wholesale grower(s) in California, with turnip-like or square roots often visible above the potting medium. For this reason I seldom buy camellias at garden centers here. Grafted conifers and other small grafted stock is also so often trapped on badly deformed, j-rooted or corksrew rootstocks at outlets here that they seldom get money from me for these groups either. The last time I bought a grafted conifer - labeled as having come from a high-profile Oregon grower whose catalogs have a history of crowing about their high quality - the rootstock consisted of a hair-like braid that went down and then up in a j, like a tail or fishhook. Seeing no way to correct it without killing the specimen, I threw the whole thing away instead of wasting additional time planting a tree that seemed certain to fail later. A way needs to be found to generate enough of a backlash to get production nurseries to stop spewing out rootbound trash. In the meantime buyer beware. Very aware.

I agree with the two posters...I think the ones you're losing are the mature leaves, these do yellow and drop as they are replaced by new growths. Mine does the same thing usually when I have a growth flush. New leaves will harden off and darken in a few weeks. If it were my tree, I would taper off on the watering to every 3-4 days now...for about a week or two unless you get rain. By appx. 3 months I would water once every 5 days or so till you're tree gets a little more established(usually around 6 months) Nothing beats rain water to get those nice growth flushes...so much better than hose water. I would wait till its at least 6 weeks then I would "very" lightly fertilize. Either some Milorganite(or slow release) or Fish emulsion diluted. Mango trees are susceptible to fertilizer burn(leaves and roots) if given too much or too strong of a fertilizer...so add half of the recommended dosage. Don't put the granular fertilizer near the trunk...place it on the drip line...Don't fertilize after the end of October once the weather starts to cool off...hopefully by Dec or Jan. you might get some blooms? Just my advise... Good luck! Your tree looks nice and healthy!

Peat pots for Mangoes? NEVER!..not here. Cut off the lip on those pots to below soil level..and plant in BLACK NURSERY POTS. What they need here is- heat. Black pots absorb heat. Put those plants against the hottest wall you have...and water the heck out of them all summer. When they start to flush? Fertilize THEN. Its when they absorb it best I found. I have a near 9' Mango,thats flowering and I did all I told you (mine was never in a peat pot) until I planted it..in the hottest spot I have. Mangoes in the bay area need to babied the first two years in ground..NO frost. Cover,heat, whatever needs to be done,but no frost.

You need to keep them watered in the heat of Qatar. Also- its possible the water you have is too salty? minerally,hard? You might use bottled water for the young mangoes and later they will have enough roots. Also,if not the water? Then its still residual damage from the salts in the manure. Its going to take more time than a few days. It might totally defoliate...but if the trunk stays firm? You will see new buds. Success! You might whitewash the trunk..Mango wood will burn if exposed to high desert heat. That would kill the tree also.