Philodendron Gloriosum Rotting!! Help!
Hi all. I received a gloriosum cutting last month. Potted it up in 2 parts orchid bark, 1 part pearlite and 1 part soil. I noticed the new growth shoot was dying? The shoot was slightly damaged when I received the plant in the mail. I took out the plant to look for rot, trimmed off some mushy roots, and repotted it. I am confused as to how it got rotten because I am very careful with watering and use a moisture meter. Has anyone has issues with shoots dying and what is it usually caused by? Did the rot cause it or is that usually not from rot? Any advice on how to save this plant would be greatly appreciated!! Ill include photos of the shoot currently, what the shoot looked like when i got the plant last month, and before and after cutting pics of the roots. Thank you!
Comments (14)
Related Discussions
help my Imperial Green Philodendron
Comments (10)Hi, I know everyone says it's overwatering because it's the most common reason for a sick plant, but I have this type of philodendron too, and same thing happened. The leaves got brownish and yellow all around the leaves and became much thinner. For me, it was a bacterial issue. If it's not too late for your plant or for other people reading this, here's how to fix the issue. - cut off the sick parts of your leaves. - with a clean rag dipped in lemon water, wipe the cut edge of the leaf to gently disinfect them - Keep it under close watch in case the patches reappear. Also, make sure it's not near other philodendrons, as to not contaminate them. To prevent it from coming back, only water you philodendron from the bottom. If you mist the leaves, mist it with lemon water. Or even better, if you need to increase humidity, don't mist and instead, put your plant's pot on a plate of wet peebles. Good luck fellow plant lovers !...See MorePlease help!! Split Leaf Philodendron - yellowing, mushy leaves
Comments (10)Susan - Tiffany is pointing you in the right direction with her comments pertaining to root health. You simply can't hope for a healthy plant unless you can provide an environment conducive to a healthy root system; and even if you could make every other cultural factor that influences your plant perfect, it wouldn't make up for or counteract the limitations imposed by a sick roots. Using rocks as a drainage layer can be counter-productive or it can be helpful, depending on what's going on in the bottom of the pot. Used as a drainage layer, they are almost certainly counter-productive. Used as ballast, they can range from somewhat helpful to very helpful, depending on how they are situated in the pot. I'll try to illustrate with a little science. In the picture above, PWT means perched water table. Perched water is water the soil holds so tightly, it won't drain from the pot by the force of gravity alone. Most commercially prepared soils hold from 3-6" of perched water, meaning that if you water fully, until water is exiting the drain hole, after the pot stops draining, the bottom of the pot is fully saturated with water. Since water and nutrient uptake is energy driven and requires oxygen, you can easily imagine what effect the lack of oxygen has on root function. If you add a "drainage layer" water simply perches in the soil above the drainage layer (see the middle picture). Obviously, that's worse than the first picture because there is considerably less 'healthy' soil for the roots to use in the middle pic than in the first pic. Using ballast correctly reduces the amount of soil that the PWT can occupy. There is less soggy soil, so less excess water in the picture with ballast than in either picture, so even more ballast would be helpful. The problem is, the ballast doesn't fix the soil that causes the excess water to be retained. It just uses physics to reduce the amount of excess water the soil CAN hold. Are you still with me? What we CAN do, if you're up for it, is put together a strategy that will help you rid your planting of SOME of the limitations causing the problems that are related to water retention. The links that Tiffany left are good primers and can provide something of a framework of knowledge that can be expanded upon. With a little effort, you can very quickly learn to avoid all the most common pitfalls that bring people here, looking for help. I don't want to assume anything, so I'll keep an eye out for a reply and what you think of what I said. Thanks for the referral (thread you linked to), Tiff. ;-) I DO notice when you do that, and want you to know I appreciate it. Al...See MoreRelocating enormous, sick, old tree philodendron, PLEASE Help
Comments (11)That is the plan, unfortunately the 2 mature leaves and one of the immature leaves broke off on me during transit. Will repot tonight, have the roots tied up in a trashbag with a few pieces of damp paper towel to prevent dryout. Yesterday turned out to be pretty busy, didn't have time and am now at work. Will repot tonight. Ended up having to get some basic potting mix and a bag if perlite, will amend it with whatever else I have at home. I have lots of clayballs, and a decent amount of fine grade bark. I have a ton of coir too, may consider some of that. Wish I could do gritty mix right now but it isnt an option. Will make what I have work, and buy more pumice or perlite of I need to. As of now, I worry the room with East light won't be enough, those windows are blocked by my neighboors house. I think that instead I will put it across from a West window, about 15 feet back. I grow Hoya fungii, a ZZ plant, and a Chinese evergreen in that area so hopefully it will be happy there. Either way, after spending all spring and summer in a gloomy basement it is going to need some time to adjust to better lighting. I will probably also give it a light foliar feed on what little greenery is left, with Tappin Roots kelp and willow extract at 1/4 strength....See Morehelp with repotting philodendron xanadu shoot
Comments (1)Ideally, you'd want to take a heel cutting. I'm lucky in that I have several sizes of razor sharp bonsai tools specifically designed to 'scoop' out some of the woody tissue behind a branch's attachment point. You can use a hacksaw blade or sharp chisel to cut into the trunk, downward, from a spot about 1/2-3/4" above the branch, then pry it away from the stem so there's a small chunk of woody stem attached to the cutting. After you have the cutting, pot it up in a fast draining, moist medium, 'moist' being the operative word. Make sure the soil is NOT soggy. Put it in a warm bright spot and it might reward you for the effort. It's hard to say whether or not you can get the new propagule to root, given the root rot issue. If it was healthy, success would pretty much be assured. Al...See Morelexi D
3 years ago
Ellen Bshaw
3 years agoSo it looks from the pic that you cut off the dying shoot, good.
I know this is an expensive plant so I am just telling you what I would do because at this point I would be concerned I would loose the plant. This is just my experience with this plant and ultimately you must do what you feel is best. If the leaf starts yellowing I would pull it from the soil, inspect the roots again and stick it in water for additional roots to develop. They root reasonably fast. I would just leave it alone for now and see what happens. Your soil looks ok, I would not let it get too dry. Hopefully another shoot will develop. Mine is continually pushing out new shoots. Here is one I propagated. If you look closely you will see a new shoot coming up.
Ellen
lexi D
3 years agoEllen Bshaw
3 years ago
hc mcdole
3 years agoGloriosum is a slow grower but for the most part is an easy forgiving plant to grow. Give it time and patience and you will be rewarded. I don't know how many years I have had mine (got it in a trade many years ago) but I've been able to start it many times with not a lot of fanfare.
lexi D
3 years agohc mcdole
3 years agoI take mine outdoors for summer (May through October) and then in the basement under lights for the rest of the months. They do okay indoors but outdoors they do so much better IMO.
Ellen Bshaw
3 years agolexi D
3 years agoEllen Bshaw
3 years agohc mcdole
3 years agoEllen,
I am in the Atlanta area so we have hot humid summers. Not Florida hot and humid but you'd think we were Florida if you were here. I can move plants out late April and leave them out to Halloween (most anyway). I do take philodendrons in before most others as they seem more sensitive (at least the leaves do show cold damage).
popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
3 years ago
Ellen Bshaw