Great job of narrowing down the colors! Chelsea Gray HC-168 is a great neutral gray that’s popular for exteriors. Cinder AF-705 takes on a purplish hue in comparison to Chelsea Gray however can work with your navy door. Geddy Gray CW-720 is very similar to Chelsea Gray which also makes it a great, and a safe choice. Be sure to view it next to your door to ensure there’s enough contrast between the gray and the blue. Good luck!

Hi Lori, Color chip is a great tool to narrow down your color choices. When you’ve narrowed it down to a few finalists, pint samples are there to help you. We recommend painting a poster size board and move it around the room to see how light and other surrounding environment effects the color. View it in the morning, afternoon and at night with your lights on. Switch out to another color and which one you like better. That doesn't answer the question. You started out labeling the color chips with "bluer undertones" and "redder undertones" when they were compared to each other. Then when another set of colors were introduced to the mix, when the context for a narrow one-on-one comparison was changed, you changed how you categorized Stonington to "subtle yellow tones" when paired with blues. And that begs the question, so what about when it's not paired with blues? So, if depending on context, Stonington can have "bluer undertones" or "subtle yellow tones" why assign absolute "undertones" or "tones" in the first place? And "Sea Froth 2107-60 looks redder next to Barren Plain" but we don't get any more clarification about Barren Plain's attributes specifically. When asked to clarify, your solution is to go buy samples, paint them, and move them around the room. Because now - all of sudden - the light matters. Whereas when you were so definitively labeling and categorizing the colors by bluer undertones, redder undertones and yellow tones the light wasn't a factor --- then. .... but now it is. Apparently the only way out is to randomly go buy samples, shuffle through the painted boards and hope one of the colors in the stack works. At least I think that's what you're saying. (And just to be clear none of this has anything to do with Color DNA. Color DNA refers to color measurements and resulting spectral data/color data values.)

Without seeing the floors, it’s very hard to say, but somewhere in this post you can see my wood look tiles in my bathroom which are gray and it looks awesome. I would recommend getting a sample and putting it up in the basement. Since I assume there is very little natural light, the tone will largely depend on your lighting. If your flooring has a warm gray tone to it, it will probably look great. If it has a bluish cool gray tone to it, you’d have to see how it looks side by side. Hope this helps a little! Can’t believe this post is still going strong after so many years 😆

Thanks Rachel! Took a look at both Bruton and China White and the former was a little darker than I wanted and CW read a little warm to my eyes (we have a strange home where everything reads super warm, even Decorator’s White). I also LOVED Harwood Putty from the Williamsburg collection in the store - looked absolutely perfect, but when I brought the chip home it was like a completely different color that immediately went into the no pile.