FYI concrete is not water proof but you can get porcelain tile that looks like concrrete. As for money saving IMO vaulted ceilings are one of the biggest money wasters on the planet. As for the rest you need to figure out what are the things you need compared to what you want I never like food storage in a alundry room nor bathroom access from LRs or DRs I would never want my master next to the LR since that is where you have your TV. Put your staove on an outside wall to get proper venting . I would need to see measurements for the master bath but FYI you need min 12” all around a free standing tub and IMO a 48 x48” is the smallest shower I would do and if you want curbless the whole bathroom needs to be a wet room for proper function and for heavens sake no tub inside a shower IMO the dumbest idea ever

Hey there! Your general contractor would be a great source to talk to about these things. I spent several years as a commercial facilities manager so I've been a client on some major construction projects. Here's my two cents, FWIW. I welcome any corrections from more qualified individuals.

Compared to a flat ceiling, vaulted ceilings mean more volume for the heating and air, which will cost more to run every year. Make sure your HVAC contractor knows so they can size the system appropriately - they should be able to give you an idea of how much more it will cost you in the long run.

Keep in mind, a vaulted ceiling will also affect your lighting plan - regular recessed lights would be replaced with angled downlights, and they may need to be brighter since they'll be higher up. It may also affect a few other trades that don't come to mind. It's not bad a bad idea, vaulted ceilings add a great sense of space to a room, just something to think about ahead of time.

You can have concrete sealed with a clear sealant. It will give the concrete a wet look and it will be darker. Like many materials it isn't impervious to everything but it should be able to keep a spilled Dr. Pepper from leaving a permanent mark. You could also consider decorative stains for your concrete. There are a lot of talented tradespeople who can apply colored stains or even stencil decorative patterns.

I know nothing about structural engineering, but my thoughts are not to press for too much cost savings when safety is a factor. However, often a safe tradeoff for budget is to go with the solution that isn't the prettiest available.

Best of luck to you!

When the slab is being poured, you should be able to mark the shower area and have them lower it below the slab height....

There are no direct answer to your questions. I suggest finding a good local architect and builder that can answer your specific questions (and I assume there are more). The architect can also help you come up with a better layout.

Your architect should be who you are having this conversation with. Your budget is pretty darn light for your wish list.

As a person with kids and a husband, I would hate my bedroom to be adjacent to the living room where there is a TV. That would be horrible. You need a better floor plan. But the zero-entry shower is a great idea. I wish I had one. As suggested above, find a good architect, hopefully one who works in a firm that employs or contracts with a certified kitchen and bath designer. You will get a better layout, and save yourself headaches and money.

I am pretty sure our slab was lowered in our shower area for our zero entry shower. But then the plumbers put in the typical waterproofing and sloped area.

You have a lot of questions in one thread (ie too many).

Search each question first and then post clarifying issues.

Where are you building? By questions/design/budget, you are in Texas or similar?

You do not do tankless with electric only. That is a bad idea. You do tankless when you have gas and then it saves some money.

A concrete shower is not a low budget item.

Assuming hot climate, the budget choice is window orientation and overhangs. This costs very little and limits the gain of heat through the windows which is your biggest issue. Nothing west facing, little east facing and adequate overhangs on the south windows.

Running a/c in cathedral ceiling is done all the time. The budget decision from an install cost and running cost is minisplits which don't have any ducting. Something to consider.

1 comment about the layout: there is no where to go for some solitude. Is this a year round home or a vacation home? I would not want front door to open into the path of the LR set up.

Without knowing where you are building I cannot be certain but that price for all you are describing is out of touch by a large margin. Even 95% DIY.

I’ve decided against the vaulted ceilings!(: we are located in southeastern Oklahoma and we own land and my hubby is planning on using some family equipment to dig up the sewage and all that stuff and just have them come out and place everything! He also is planning on doing all the electrical work in the house for the most part(: thwill be our year round home!(: and i was hoping after I got everyones input I would figure out a way to cut back on the square footage!(: just a tad bit!(: Ive wrote up this floor plan because I feel like hallway is wasted space(I could be wrong lol) some of the doors were wanting to be sliding doors I’ve considered re arranging the bedroom so the tv isn’t so close to the tv in the living room! I know not everything’s perfect but I just want to give a huge thank you to everyone that’s commenting because I’ve definitley learned a lot! We’re saving up until March to actually start the whole process so we can have a bigger down payment but I just want to be well informed and don’t wanna be blind sided(which I more than likely will end up anyways lol) but that’s part of the reason we don’t have a contractor to discuss all this with yet!(: THANK YALL!☺️

Sice you have some time you should consider bringing on a GC sooner than later. Permitting has its own timelines (some municipalities can take 6 or 8 weeks for plans to even be looked at, and then you may need revisions) and costs which you want to get started with as early as possible.

The GC will also help you with the planning and making decisions early - be ready to make hundreds to even thousands of decisions - it's not a light task and you will be glad to get ahead on the work.

Okay I will show my husband what you said thank you(: he’s been calling around and asking prices for like the shell of the house and the concrete slab!(: is that what a GC is for??

Actually, a GC generally is responsible for overseeing and coordination pretty much every aspect of the build.

Not an expert but do you really want a home with only one door, six windows, no natural light in either bathroom and only three closets? I wouldn't.

Kristen, we were invited to a house warming a couple of years ago that had a similar bedrooms and guest bath plan as you are showing. The homeowner is an experienced contractor with artistic leanings - he had used some reclaimed wood in quite pretty ways, incorporating several nice things into their 'dream home' - the plans were drawn by him and a great source of personal pride.

But all bedrooms but the master opened directly into the living and kitchen area. Most of us (quietly) agreed it felt really awkward somehow even just being there as day guests. It gave the home an off vibe, like something unplanned or unfinished, or an arrangement one might find in a weekend family getaway or lodge, not home. I don't know if I'm describing that accurately, the takeway was along the lines of someone had tried too hard to get the most square footage for the budget. The custom kitchen and living area were huge with gorgeous windows and amazing light. And anyone exiting a bedroom in the morning in their nightie on the way to the bathroom would have stepped right into the main living space to greet anyone already up for the day.

Piggybacking on @Avanti Tile & Stone / Stonetech said, a GC (general contractor) will manage your budget, walk you through simple design decisions, help you tackle problems when they arise (and there will be problems), coordinate all of the subcontractors (even if your husband is doing some of the work), make sure the project is following schedule, pull permits, schedule inspections, procure materials, the list goes on.

I've seen electrical engineers and tradespeople manage major construction projects like yours and themselves made rookie mistakes. Even these pros who know many of the ins and outs of the construction business lost a lot of time and money for not hiring a GC. It's easy to fall into the mindset that it's a straightforward project, and that there isn't enough budget to hire a GC, but they will provide the most value to you.

Check into the OK Secretary of State website for guidelines on how to hire a general contractor and what to look for.

@Kristen Bruton You've got a few pro suggestions here and some non-professional opinions. I would lend an ear to the pros. Because you're talking about knocking down walls and re-structuring, at this point, I would hire a Designer and Contractor who works in your city, to help, if I were you - rather than wing it by seeking the opinion of non-professionals, no offence to the latter. Not getting a professional may lead to costly mistakes. Designers and Contractors work together on projects such as yours. Most designers - including yours truly - refrain from making structural suggestions without a site visit and without personally taking measurements. As I tell my clients, anything can be done but some things cannot be undone without spending a ton of time and resources :) Good luck with everything.

Tori

TORI BLACK HOMES

you are trying to build that house for less than $100 a square foot; you might want to check with some local folks for 'average' cost to build a mid-range type house (which is what it appears you are wanting). I truly don't see how you can cut any square footage and still have an 'enjoyable' home; in fact I can see adding 7 ft to the width of the house (for two hallways) being a huge improvement.

I don’t know about the rules where you live, but where I’m from, I can’t just dig my own septic and leach field. And I can’t see a contractor agreeing to install anything to a diy dug septic/leach field. Or the health dept passing it.

I don’t think you will pass inspection without using a licensed electrician either.

With contractors being booked out 6 months-a year, you will have a hard time hiring them to come out and do things piece meal.

"I would lend an ear to the pros. Because you're talking about knocking down walls and re-structuring, at this point, I would hire a Designer and Contractor who works in your city, to help, if I were you - rather than wing it by seeking the opinion of non-professionals, no offence to the latter"

Tori Black Homes instead of worrying about non-pro's offering advice and suggesting she not listen to it, how about you read. She is not "knocking down walls and re-structuring" it is new construction. There are non-pro's here who have been offering solid advice for years.

Hello from a fellow Okie.

I think that you would have much better luck staying anywhere near your budget and end up with a far better layout by looking into pre-fab homes. There are so many designs available these days that you’re almost guaranteed to find one that fits your lifestyle better than the layout above.

While I can see your point that hallways feel like a waste of living space, they serve to improve the livability of a home.

Here are a couple of examples of layouts that I found that have small amounts of hallways that give some delineation. Both are smaller than your proposed square footage. I found them at https://www.theplancollection.com/house-plans/square-feet-1350-1450

Agree with jemimabean's suggestion. I was going to suggest you research "tiny homes" and the like. Your current plan is pretty awkward. Is this your first home?

I really think you should go back to square one and find a better house design. That one has so many shortcomings and I would hate for you to spend your hard earned money on a home full of design flaws.

First step in buying or building a first home is to educate yourself on costs and the neighborhood differences in your area.

You may be able to build a 1300 sf home in your area for $130,000 or you may be able to buy a lot that will accommodate a 1300 sf home in your area for $130,000.

To know what is possible visit 100 open houses, look at new homes and existing homes. Look at what is available for $130,000.

Don't forget to add in the extra costs that come with a new home. Are the appliances included? Landscaping? Fencing? Window Coverings? What is included - construction grade vs upgrade - the model home will have all the upgrades and the cost will be significantly higher. It is amazing how much you can spend just on lighting fixtures or upgrading the flooring. Does the new neighborhood have an HOA, adding $$$ to the monthly budget?

When visiting the new homes remember that these are being built on developed lots and many of the costs have been shared across the development. Most are built with a standard set of floor plans and everything is purchased in bulk, all reducing the cost of a truly custom home on a stand alone lot.

Make careful notes on each home you visit, pros/cons. Pay special attention to the location and neighborhood. Are the surrounding homes well maintained? Is the neighborhood in a good school district? Is the house on a cul de sac or busy street? Is there a flight path overhead or a train behind the house? Is the home in a flood plane or at high risk for any other type of natural disaster (I lived in California and several times had the reverse 911 calls to prepare to evacuate due to forest fires, moved to PA and much of the town is prone to flooding and sinkholes).

If you can buy what you want for $100,000 you should be able to do a custom build for $130,000.

I would suggest that you look locally for an organisation that will help you build an unexpensive house. People here are from all over the country (or even the continent) and have no real clue of what a building will cost locally and what is acceptable or not concerning DIY with parts of buildings. The thruth is that it may be possible with compromises (decide what you need and what you just would like). It is impossible to us to know whether your locality/state has higher requirements than the norm, or lesser requirements.

We also have no clue of who will be living in this house. You have 3 bedrooms, but ask about a walk-in shower. It is true your layout looks cramped, but depending on whether you are a retired couple or a family with 3 kids will make the house liveable or not.

Jennifer Hogan has a few good advices as has jemimabean who is at least from your state. But pre-fab homes come at different prices depending of their finishing and most do not come with a walk-in shower.

So it is really a work of looking around, finding local information, may be finding a GC and figuring out how much what you want would cost and what you would be able to DIY or not (where I live, electricity has to be done by a licensed electrician - or at least supervised. It may or may not be the case where you live).

So take your time to check everything, find a site that is more intune with your budget if you want to look online - sorry, I have no suggestions, but I am sure there may be some), and decide what you can do.

Amused to see a 1400 sqf called tiny house, This is a small house (particularly when compared to some of the houses some people have), but by no mean a tiny house.

@User - "A mobile home is the only thing in that budget range."

My nephew and his wife are currently in escrow, buying a 3 BR/ 1 Bath 1400 Sf freshly renovated home with a 2 car garage on a 1/4 acre lot for $140 k in central PA. My daughter bought an 8 acre farmette in NC for $120k just about 2 years ago. 35 years ago, when I bought my first home, I was barely able to find a home that wasn't a rat trap in San Diego County for $140K. My niece had a difficult time finding a home in NJ (commuting distance to Philadelphia) for under 600k. Without knowing the zip code we have no idea what $130 k can buy.

lg22, you're absolutely right: it's not a tiny house; I couldn't think of the correct term which I why I put it in quotation marks. Not very clear on my part and I blame my lack of caffeine at that early hour. :)

I can't get over the terrible refrigerator placement. almost didn't notice the "bathroom in a nightie" problem. :)

agree that an existing plan is likely to serve you better.

@millworkman sorry if I offended you or anybody as that was not my intent.

I'm sure you have offered "advice" for years as you mention. I'm not sure that alone qualifies such advice as sound or helpful. One has been a member here for as long as one can remember as well, and seen it all go down, but not sure that alone qualifies me as a pro, able to offer advice.

What does qualify me is my Interior Design degree - after four grueling years of learning (while pregnant with a child) at a distinguished and reputable Design School and graduating. What qualifies me also is the 12 years I spent in the field working with my hands, at projects exactly like this one - together with contractors, builders, electricians, plumbers, roofers, flooring, carpet and wallpaper installers. painters, carpenters and handymen - and LEARNING every day of those 12 years. That may be just a few of the major differences between a pro and a layperson.

Just as watching videos of surgery being performed does not make me a surgeon, similarly, a bystander providing professional advice on technical aspects of building a house, with no training or experience whatsoever behind them, does not automatically make the bystander's advice superior to that of a pro. No sir.

I think any reasonable person would see that self-evident truth without someone else having to point it out to them.

Once again it is not about you personally or your right to give advice. You have every right to do what you want. Say what you wish. It's just that it seems unfair and misleading to the homeowner when someone who is not a pro (with the necessary experience and training) "knowledgeably" recommends something that they do not have the experience to make recommendations about - that too with zero accountability. That is my general observation.

I say this based on a reasonable assumption that Non-Pros have less experience (one assumes they have day jobs that are not in construction or design), and zero accountability compared to Pros who have been working on providing solutions and recommendations to clients together with being accountable to the trade. So when a non-professional, proceeds to second guess the pros who have the experience training and accountability - and offer professional technical "advice" - while knocking down the Pros - just because they have been doing it for years - it is usually a recipe for disaster.

That is, why DIYers call it DIY and Pros are called Pros. I think we can safely say, there is a qualitative difference between the two approaches. I don't think there's even a debate here.

That is the bare-bones truth of the matter and that's not about to change. Now if you'll excuse me for speaking the truth, one must return to one's day job.

I meant no offense to you or anyone else when suggesting a course of action for the homeowner - rather than mislead - while you sir, on the other hand, took it upon yourself to call me out and wrangle with me over it. That is unfortunate and plain disrespectful. It would not be accepted by anyone else in my position - man or woman - and it is not acceptable to me as a woman who has worked extremely hard to learn, educate and support myself as I strive to produce my best work for each one my clients as I have done every single day for the last 12-13 years.

Let me end by saying this - I would not walk into your place of work, sir and "advice" your patrons on how I, with zero experience or training, can do your job better than you...a pro... just because I have been watching and speaking about it for a long time...! That would be foolish, wouldn't it?

Please try to be respectful of others' livelihoods. That's all I want to say, my good sir - politely and calmly, as I have. Take care. Stay safe. Enjoy the rest of your day, sir.

Tori

Tori, the main issue is your comments seemed to be directed at a remodel/renovation problem when, in fact, the OP is wanting to build on vacant property. It is as though you immediately jumped into chastising some folks who might not actually be what YOU consider a pro, rather than actually read through (and comprehend) the original post.

The urge to avoid hallways is understandable. But actually defining where people will walk can help a lot with layout. There has to be room for them to walk anyway, so best to decide where it's going to be-- that's not wasting space.

So, given the footprint you're thinking of, I think you could have a much more functional house than the one that you have planned. One of the major shortfalls of your current sketch is the significant lack of storage. Add to that, a single entry (illegal in most jurisdictions), and a number of other layout problems...

At any rate, I scribbled up a floorplan that sticks with approximately the same square footage and rectangular footprint as your sketch. This is by no means perfect, but perhaps it will help you better picture what is doable in 1300 sf.