Really nice packages being sent out there! How FUN is this swap?!!!!!! It's so FUN that I couldn't wipe the smile off my face while I was going through my box from Vina! Vina was very inventive with the letters from SUMMERTIME ... check this out .... ....................OScolor = red>trich Fern Iris; Tropical BUcolor = red>tterfly ................AlliuMcolor = red>; Hair ...........Iris; BuMcolor = red>blebee Delilte .............Lily; NEcolor = red>ttie's Pride ........Daylily; PRcolor = red>estor John ...............EgypTcolor = red>ian Walking Onion ........................Icolor = red>ris; Boo .................Iris:Mcolor = red>ohawk Brave ..............Iris: REcolor = red>d Zinger (it took me some time to get these letters to all line up ... Whew!) Vina, I love them all! I'm so happy to have BOO back, and Red Zinger iris (Shirley had given me this years ago and it disappeared one winter). And a Fern ... Thank you! And believe it or not the Egyptian Walking Onion is new for me, it seems like it would be perfect for Shish Kabobs! This was a Super Box! sharon

SUCCESS!! A half hour ago I was sitting down to report failure. For the record I'll report what I did. But the punch line is: google the real problem. I was not actually having F11 or F14 codes, I was having Sud and F02 codes and it does make a difference. There's a good thread about Sud/F02 codes here. And the moral is: While writing this I just had to jump up and check on my machine because it was spinning so audibly fast. It hasn't done that in a *loooong* time. Let me tell you why: The Sud/F02 code is apparently due to a blocked outlet. On retrospect, everything points to this simple answer. I didn't add things together before hand. It's been a long time since I've heard water leaving the drum. And it hasn't spun hard in ages either. The symptoms were longer and longer for the machine to finish its cycle until finally it just failed and started throwing codes eventually. And recently water is left in the drum a little bit too (when someone else used it; I manipulated things so that didn't happen). So all this adds up to: plugged drain. The drain is located behind the bottom panel, removed with three hex screws (see link above). There's a 3" plastic plug to remove and in mine was: ripped plastic hose, broken pen parts, many, many of them (I'm going to kill my teenager), and disposable dental floss picks (I'm going to kill dh), and eraser caps (I'm going to kill my tweenager), and a really, really thick plug of grease and hair and compressed lint and other gook that was just its own unique substance. Oh my. As suggested in the link above, do have many, many towels ready to sop up much, much water that will come out. Also in my water is about 2 TB at least of heavy white grains -- maybe that's just sand -- dh is a marine biologist and teen is a jr lifeguard, spending much time on the beach. Would sand that sits in water soften? I guess not -- don't know what that stuff is. It's kind of hydrated. Practically like oats. Ycccck. And so .... the machine seems fixed. And I'm thinking now that hydrated "sand" is maybe the backing to decaying plastic-backed rugs. What did I do prior to finding the fix? I took the circuit board out again as described by so many above with such luck. I didn't note very much before and want to set it down here for the record. I encountered many, many broken plastic clips, some sitting on the wires, some in the circuit board itself. The whole white plastic housing rattled on its clips even though those three large ones weren't visibly broken. When I replaced it I fixed that back on with duck tape too. Pry the three large white tabs holding the white housing box for the circuit board up with a thin screwdriver, a little bit on one side, then the other, back to the first side. Two people might help but would need to be very light-fingered. There are plastic clips holding the circuit board to the white box. Most of mine are broken (the machine is 10 years old now). Two thin screwdrivers are needed to pry the tabback and then with the other screwdriver, gently press the board up. This must happen back and forth at a couple spots (without touching any solders obviously). The backs of all my solders looked perfect. Two of the tops of my solders looked a little dark in color. Neither of the switches looked corroded. I resoldered all the contact strips. Some looked fine but when I went to remelt the solder, I discovered there just wasn't any there at all, so I added a touch more. I sprayed all the contact strips with electronic cleaner before soldering ; don't know if that was a mistake. Almost all the clips that hold the wiring housings in place are snapped off just from time and the vibration of the machine itself. It's possible a new board housing is in order. I think that's all I wanted to remember for next time. I had some vaseline ready but decided it wasn't necessary. Given how tough it was to slip on the cracky plastic wire housings, I'm thinking that might help the clips go on more smoothly on old machines. OTOH with no exterior plastic clips left to hold the wire harnesses in place, making that too smooth a contact might allow it to wriggle free easier. After I fit it all back in place I was relieved that the machine turned on just fine, only with the same characteristic noisy sound and non-rotation of the drum - another symptom that I forgot to mention (signifying, as it turns out, that plugged drain). Immediately after starting up again the Sud code got thrown again so that's when (duh) I started to google the other codes. This thread is a wonderful repository! In sum: Sud/F02 == plugged drain, remove bottom panel and clean trap F11/F14/door lock == bad circuit contacts, resolder, clean contacts, etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Sud/F02 code fix

The hyper heat heat pump can make sense to cool an area with difficult access for ducts. Does the basement fit that description? It will cost you more to heat it with a heat pump than with natural gas. What are the aims of zoning, saving energy or comfort? If the former, you are probably barking up the wrong tree. If you have a well-sealed, well-insulated home, your heat transfer rates between rooms/floors will be much faster than out of the structure. Zoning can be difficult to accomplish, but not impossible. With old-school high mass boilers, it was not so difficult, but a modern, low-mass boiler, if sized to heat a large area, will be shutting off frequently. The same may be true for furnaces, but I am not as familiar with that issue. I've seen you write boilers and furnaces, which are you looking for? You can do forced air heat with hydro coils powered by a boiler, or with a furnace. With a hydro coil, you might be able to heat the bonus room but you'd still need a way to cool it. Cost calculations would tell you if it is worth it to install separate cooling and heating systems there. What are you planning on doing in the basement? Is is going to be just one, open area? I'd consider hiring an energy rater to help you plan and set milestones for the builder. They can help you choose your mechanical systems appropriately. They can do blower door tests to make sure that the house is air-sealed and insulated properly. Where are you located? It can make a big difference in figuring out what kinds of equipment to install if you have to heat a lot vs. cool a lot or both. Humidity is an issue too.

eponymouse I live in Sweden and we already have the new line of Asko washers you are talking about. What I have seen in test of earlyer machines fron asko are that they are about midrange in cleaning and rather low at rinsing how that will be in the new models time will tell..... Have read the top of the line manual and there are stuff you can program. There are a more water option, do not know if it ads even to wash or just rinse. You can ad 2 more rinses. Both these are not awailable in all programs. What is it you want to know specificly, but we have to remember that it can vary from Eu to Us, I will gladly read more of the manual if you want me to.