Thank you weedmeister. Upon your advice, I returned to said breaker and determined a slight "catch" half way across, which, with greater force to over come, switched the breaker fully "off" thus allowing switch to fully "on". Went back upstairs (fridge control on off), switched from back up grounded circuit to dedicated refrigerator circuit and Voila! Control panel 3 second hold returns it to full run. We have electricity again. I truly appreciate your help: might you glance at my second post of the day in HVAC forum too?

Its not legal if its just a single outlet not duplex receptacle you used ( one place to plug into vs. two places to plug into). Also watch out if your newer dishwasher has a deeper comparment than your older one making it very hard to unplug the cord (if the outlet is located directly behind the dishwasher) and should no longer be considered a disconnect. This does not apply though if you already have a disconnecting means within sight of the dishwasher usually found as a switch above the countertop or also could be located in the sink cabinet.

Sure, wire it with #12 if that floats your boat, but if the instructions require it to be on a 15A you MUST do it. A "piece of equipment" fed with two circuits at 240v or 120/240v would require a 2-pole breaker in the first place now wouldn't it. Jake, I get the impression that you mainly do commercial/industrial work. Am I wrong? Typically you guys are the "minimum 20A circuit" guys. I do all kinds of work, but mostly residential the past few years. Do enough houses and you'll get real attached to 15A circuits in some areas. Commercial/industrial I agree with this philosophy. I also use MWBC's whenever possible.

Great! Thanks for your patience in reading all that detail. Thanks for your responses. Further: I will run a full size (4 AWG) NEUTRAL. What size GROUND should I run in the house to shed panel conduit... a green insulated 6 AWG stranded copper maybe? I will use a 70 AMP breaker in my house panel. Another person gave the same recommendation. Should I make the associated step-down for the main breaker in the shed panel from 100 AMPs to 70 AMPs or leave that as described? Regarding "install a ground system (2 rods typically)": My house was built in 2005 with one 8' ground rod wired into the main house panel by the electrician. Electric co-op employees stood on that single bar when they connected my meter to the power pole. Is the "2 rod" ground system new since 2005 or did everyone involved in energizing my house leave me with something that is dangerous, illegal, bad? Thanks again.