I did do some googling for whirlpool fridge warranties. Here's what I found: "WHIRLPOOL� REFRIGERATOR WARRANTY SECOND THROUGH FIFTH YEAR FULL WARRANTY ON SEALED REFRIGERATION SYSTEM PARTS AS LISTED In the second through fifth years from the date of purchase, when this refrigerator is operated and maintained according to instructions attached to or furnished with the product, Whirlpool Corporation will pay for FSP� replacement parts and repair labor costs to correct defects in materials or workmanship in the sealed refrigeration system. These parts are: compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer, and connecting tubing. Service must be provided by a Whirlpool designated service company. Whirlpool" In every operators manual that I have for my appliances, the "Factory Warranty" is included in the "OP Manual". I would take the time to check yours, neversink4. You may have Whirlpool "By the ****'s" in more than one way, as far as your defective fridge goes. I am also linking the URL for the Whirlpool Website where I found this info, (See below). Lest this become a "Whirlpool bash", one can find posts where folks paid for defective evaporators for a very well known and expensive brand of fridge in well under 12 years---Don't take my word for it---goggle it!!!. The point is, "sorrily" that you much be the one to take a "Proactive approach" as to what is or isn't covered under your warranty, Sorry about That!! Good luck with BBB action and I hopes this post give you more "Ammo"! Gary Here is a link that might be useful: Whirlpool Refrigerator Warranty

I'm looking for the same answer. A local, independent home improvement store warned that heavy, mirrored bypass doors with a floor track would buckle the floor if it's not free to float when the door is attached to both the hardware and laminate, subfloor, or substrate and the floor expands without allowance. My closet opening is unusually wide at 96" so the doors would be heavy. I am loathe to drill an oversized hole into the Pergo "Outlast" for either bypass doors or replacing the original, lightweight bi-fold doors and and use a washer for the center bi-folder door point. Bi-fold doors are lighter and the advice I've found is to glue door guides towards the middle of a track if hanging doors, or affix a track on the floor held with double sided tape if not a hanging door. See this video for the former, hanging style-door-w/glued-guides approach: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-3ZvXhfE3E&feature=youtu.be Hope this is helpful.

"We're installing two 32" doors into a rough in 64" opening. This will allow for a 1" overlap. Easy" As long as you are narrowing the rough opening 1 inch less than typical. For 32" doors with a 1 inch lap, your width would be 65" 82" is a "standard height" for most applications. We typically went 82-1/2" but you have to take into consideration the flooring used and adjust accordingly. This is also assuming your jamb header and legs are 3/4" frame thickness. Some pre-hungs have thicker jambs.

According to Johnson, you just can't stick a 2x3 under the track, you have to pull out and replace the entire pocket frame. They couldn't tell me why. The one in the PR with the finished floor only has a 3ft wall so cutting a 30"x 18" (or whatever to get a cordless in there) wouldn't be that destructive. Pulling out the whole 3ft wall to the corner and to the floor to pull up the 1" blocking under the metal pocket frame would be. They suggested adding material to the top of the door and lowering the trim to hide the joint. We want to lower the trim to the same height as the other doors (and it's precut so didn't go all the way to the finished floor anyway, about 1/2" above) but since all the woodwork in the house is stained I thought the additional material would show. These doors need to be finished, I guess we could add 1x3 to the top and sand it flush then finish the doors but you would see the grain running perpendicular to the stiles if you happened to look up and the trim didn't completely cover that top 3/4" (plus hangers). Grinding down the screw head to get it to fit in the nylon underside of the hanger and grinding the threads off (too big in diameter) b/t the hanger and the nylon "lock" seems like a bigger pain than lowering the track and patching/painting (though it would have to be a nice job walking from foyer into kitchen/family). Not sure about adding material to door(s) since they're to be stained. The other 3 doors are in the unfinished master bath, 2 have pockets in closet (would have to temporarily remove 1 rod) and would not have to be a great patch job, the other slides into pocket on side of vanity that I want to replace anyway, but the patch/paint has to be a little better there.