Please follow floorguy's advice and get the OK from the landlord. But, I've rented several places where the landlord was perfectly OK with me making improvements. I would try and negotiate to get at least half the cost of materials off the rent. Of course, the current rent for the beach location may be low enough to justify making the improvements yourself. But to the other question. Yes, click-lock laminate is very easy. It's like a giant jigsaw puzzle with only straight pieces.... You really do just lay it down and snap it together. Some even come with the underlayment already attached. No glue or nails. The only tool you need is a saw with a laminate blade and a good hand saw for tricky cuts. The home improvement store folk will be able to direct you. They will even "train" you. When I met my wife, she had put it all thru her 600 sq ft apartment, including in the kitchen and bathroom. She's not super handy, but fearless. Since you aren't super comfortable, try one room. Say, a foyer, or a small hallway, or even inside a closet. That can get your feet wet without a lot of expense. Laminate isn't "recommended" for wet areas, but if you're careful, it will be fine. We just meticulously wiped up spills and put down bathmats to catch the after-shower drips. Good luck. If you decide to give it a try, I think you will enjoy it and doing it.

Hi all, I've been a long time "stalker" on this website for any questions I've had whilst I've been doing some DIY renos with my mom (nothing major, though). Anyway, a couple years ago my mom had me rip up her old, 22yr old carpet to lay down Allure vinyl planks until we were able to afford well made laminate or hardwoods. The planks have served their purpose now, and next spring we're planning on laying the new laminate or engineered hardwood floors (floating of course). So do I need to rip up the Allure, and take it back to the subfloor? or leave it be. Also what's the best underlay to use under laminate or engineered? is there a different kind for different flooring? I should also mention the vinyl was installed directly over the plywood (?) subfloor (which is level) in the LR, Master Bed, and Hallway. and applied over 70's linoleum sheets in office and my room but isn't much of a height difference right now. Thanks :)

3650 PSF is equal to 25 PSI..... Their dricore products are just massively overpriced, at least in the US they are. I think it is better to put down a foundation wrap (DMX), then 1" XPS foam (25-30 PSI). Assuming that the floor is flat, you could probably get away with putting flooring (with a membrane) directly on top of it. If your floor isn't flat, you probably will need a dedicated subfloor. I'd also be sure to use some kind of flooring that is somewhat rigid and install it perpendicular to the foam boards, so that if the foam boards do try to lift or sink, the flooring will add some rigidity to prevent it from mattering.

I would install the laminate up to the tile and then stop. Laminate is not wood. It is a photograph of wood on fibre board (something like very dense paper mache). Laminate does not do very well in kitchens. The tile is the most appropriate floor out of the two. If you install the laminate in the kitchen you will immediately void the warranty. If you MUST do it, you will install thick plywood (could be 3/4" thick) to run up to the tile (should be even). Then you will use self leveling compound the bridge the gap between the plywood and the tile. Then you will install the laminate over the tile. But beware. Your doorways (and your appliances) will have to be adjusted. Most doors are hung to accommodate 3/4" floors. Carpets are often 3/4" thick (with the pad). And tiles are often 3/4" thick. A laminate on top of tile can and will muck up anything/everything it comes near. It is better to remove the tile than it is to lay plywood. You could be forced to remove, trim and rehang all the doors (not to mention the dishwasher won't fit and possibly the fridge won't fit and the range will no longer sit flush with the counters.