From Oil Heat/AC to Heatpump/Air Handler
Family of Girls
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Family of Girls
3 years agoRelated Discussions
AC Unit & Air Handler Replacement for Older Home: 5 Quotes
Comments (12)Hey tigerdunes, I agree - getting a breaker installed properly and up to code is priority, so whatever path I take that will have to be part of it. I have Washington Gas and NOVEC Electric. Gas is First 25 therms 47.91â Next 100 therms 30.58â Over 125 therms 25.73â Gas bill for last month TOTAL THERMS (TH) USED 122.8 25.0 TH @ $.4796 $11.99 97.8 TH @ $.3063 $29.96 ALL APPLICABLE RIDERS $3.13 SYSTEM CHARGE $11.25 PGC @ $.5026 $61.72 NATURAL GAS SUPPLY SERVICE LOCAL UTILITY TAX $3.00 ST.& LOCAL CONSUMPTION TAX $2.29 TOTAL GAS CHARGES $123.34 IâÂÂve only been here since September 2011, but IâÂÂve typically averaged 125-130 for gas in the winter, 30-50 in the summer and anywhere from 60-85 in the fall. I donâÂÂt have the NOVEC rates handy at the moment, but I average $50-$70 most months and anywhere between $110-$160 in the summer. I believe I'm working with the original boiler for my baseboard radiant heating by the way. The costs weren't ridiculously high as you can see, but I am worried that it could crap out on me any winter now, which is why I was considering the heat pump to potentially help extend its life by offsetting the amount it had to work at all temperatures. Company A said the addition of a heat pump would probably add around $600-700 whereas Company B said that the addition of a heat pump would add $1,175. The heat pump coupled with the new electric work would be way past my budget, but if it saves me an additioanl $5-6k on paying for a new boiler next year while also dropping some monthly costs, perhaps it's worth it? Are the original quotes and the additional heat pump expenses in line for the DC Metro area (or in general), in your opinion? Thanks again for your help!...See MoreGE heat pump/air handler not heating
Comments (10)I am in agreement with everyone, the unit is old but as stated, was purchased by TRANE. However, the relays and other supporting parts are readily available. If I'm correct, I think Tigerdunes was pointing in the right direction. If you are not familiar with heating with heat pumps, then the air coming from the vents while in the heat pump mode alone, would feel cool to you. One thing you mentioned was that while it was in the heat pump mode, you did not measure voltage to the element. That would be normal. When the unit calls for AUX or Emerg. heat, then you would get a voltage to the heaters. Here's what I think is happening....the reversing valve is stuck...it was common on the older units. The unit stays in the cooling mode and when the first bank of heaters comes on, the cool air overcomes the full effect of the heater. Check the air coming from the outside unit. If it is warm and that will confirm the possibility of a stuck reversing valve. As mentioned also by Tigerdunes, replacing a reversing valve is expensive and given the age of your unit, whole replacement of the unit would be a better choice. Now a professional should be called however, I'll give you one thing you can try, if indeed it is still in the A/C mode. You can force the valve to slide into the heat mode by doing this.....disconnect the blower at the condenser. Turn the unit on in the heat pump mode and let it run....Given your temperatures, the condenser will slowly build pressure on one side of the valve as the pressure drops on the other side. You'll know you are getting close when you hear the compressor staring to load up. You'll suddenly hear a whoosh and the reversing valve has now reversed. Let it run for about a minute to make sure it has fully reversed. Shut the unit downand hook the fan back up. When the unit goes into the defrost mode, the valve may work and the unit defrosts but may not switch back to heat mode (sometimes they do, sometimes they don't.) If that's the case, you have to do it all over. This suggestion is just to get you some heat until you get someone out....See MoreAdvice Needed on A/C HeatPump Replacement
Comments (5)"The two contractors below came up with a 2.5 size but heat pumps only come in whole sizes. Am I over sizing the unit if I go with the 3 ton heat pump?" The heat pumps you were quoted are 2-stage models. All 2-stage heat pumps come in whole ton sizes. You would have to get a single stage heat pump in order to get the 2.5 ton size. I am in central NJ so my climate is very similar to yours. Did you review the load calculations? Is the 1800 sq. feet all on the second floor below attic space? Given attic poor insulation (R19 or less?), the 2.5 ton may be slightly under sized. In my opinion I don't think a 2-stage 3 ton heat pump is over sized. We would have to look at the data sheet, but most likely the lower stage will be less than 2.5 tons. It is difficult to comment on the price because of the required duct work. It sounds there is a lot of labor involved in the new duct work and attic installation. Contractors don't like to break out line item cost. Getting one price is very common. You have gotten 8 bids, so you compare prices. You did the right thing by rejecting people who don't even go into the attic. The answer you other questions, I think 2-stage equipment is worth the extra money. It is going to do a better job of lowering the humidity in the summer. It should also be quieter when running on the low stage while you are sleeping. I think suspending the air handler from the rafters is the best way to minimize noise. I don't have experience with attic installed equipment, but it seems logical you would cut down the vibration from the ceiling. You want R8 insulated ducts in the attic. The main duct should be metal and all joints should have mastic. The flexible ducts should have no kinks. If it looks bad to your eye then it is probably bad. You are doing the right thing by investing in improved duct work. I like Carrier over Lennox. You also want a 2-stage thermostat. Find out the model number and make sure it is in the quote....See Morequestion about adding central air w/baseboard heat - air handler?
Comments (3)Is this a single story home? Are there multiple rooms to be cooled? Mini splits work for open spaces. Houses built in the 70s typically were built with multiple walls. You would need multiple mini split heads which makes it expensive. You already have a nice heating system. The air handler and duct work in the attic would be a good cooling solution. Keep looking for more HVAC contractors. The first two have proposed expensive solutions which are not the appropriate in my opinion....See MoreFamily of Girls
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