Tropical, in many cases bringing in a new plant is the cause of developing bugs. 2 years ago I ordered plants (via mail) and didn't inspect them. A month later, 95% of my plants had white fly..they were everywhere. Upstairs, on the main floor. No matter what I used (I won't use harsh chemicals) those critters wouldn't die. I finally went to gardensalive.com and found sticky traps..they're fantastic traps for flying or fast moving insects. Within a month or less they were gone. You should have seen those traps though, they were packed w/white fly. The traps are reusalbe too, but you have to buy a glue called Tanglefoot, and clean the yellow traps w/veggie oil. I bought more for back up, in case. Toni

Water: Its hot as said so watering is 2-3 days depending on the soil. Hose on low, depending on soil conditions, approximately 3-6 seconds. Pots: ( Original plant total = 10, current = 7) 1 plant in 4 pots: 24-inch diameter ( let branch out however it wants with little clipping) + 2 propagated basil plants in each pot ( 2 remaining plants out of 4) 3 plants in 2 pots: 18-inch x 8 inches long ( 5 remaining plants out of 6) Filled with: 1/2 inch thick bottom rocks or plastic mesh bottom. store bought vegetable specific soil 80% ( mixture of soil, sand, mulch, nutrients) and 20% native soil. Add slow release fertilizer and a few worms found in the yard when lucky all mixed in initial pot without plants.once a month add fast release fertilizer on top ( about 1-2 table spoons). Plants: Few days after preparing the soil and pots I add plants from propitiated stems or seedlings ( harvested seeds from California Italian tomatoes found at...Costco Japan haha). I also add a small propagated basil plant or two to the big pots. This is my third year doing this "style" and the first time with this issue(s). Current care: On all plants I have removed the yellowing/ golding spotted fruit. Current new fruit is small and the normal green. A few plants as a test have removed old leaves. Others i have left the same. All new growth is green with light yellowing on the leaves.

That's herbicide damage. And it's from herbicide carryover of persistent herbicides used in agriculture to kill broadleaf weeds in grass family crops (straw, pasture). It could have come from composts or manures you may have used. But, because early growth is normal, it's something that was added post-plant. Perhaps the straw (grass?) mulch? Tomatoes are perhaps the most sensitive to damage. See this page for multiple images of damaged veggies: http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/aminopyralid/ Various links at at the left on that page, but this pub provides an easy-to-read summary of the facts: http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/aminopyralid/Aminopyralid_pdf.pdf To verify the source of the damage, do the simple bio-assay described there.

So there are any holes in your ceramic pot?! The plastic pot is inside the ceramic pot? If so, this is your mistake. The surplus water from every watering will stagnate in the ceramic vase and the roots will develop root rot in no time. Aeration of the soil is also inexistent in this arrangement, so root rot in no time again. To save the tree: remove it's fruits, remove the roots from the current soil, cut away rooted roots, re-plant-it in some soil with at least 50% perlite or other aerated stones, and keep-it on top of the heater so that the soil temperature to be 23-28 degree Celsius. The pot that you will use needs to be smaller than the current one, with many aditional holes on the bottom, each at least 5mm in diameter! Use the ceramic pot for anything else ! Or dispose-it!