Doesn't appear to be mites.

Stop spraying until you actually find something moving, then let's identify it before anything else is applied.

Are the plants in pots or the ground?

If in pots, the size?

And what did you fill them with?

How do you water? Hose? sprinkler? drip?

and how often?

Water: Its hot as said so watering is 2-3 days depending on the soil. Hose on low, depending on soil conditions, approximately 3-6 seconds.

Pots: ( Original plant total = 10, current = 7)

1 plant in 4 pots: 24-inch diameter ( let branch out however it wants with little clipping) + 2 propagated basil plants in each pot ( 2 remaining plants out of 4)

3 plants in 2 pots: 18-inch x 8 inches long ( 5 remaining plants out of 6)

Filled with:

1/2 inch thick bottom rocks or plastic mesh bottom. store bought vegetable specific soil 80% ( mixture of soil, sand, mulch, nutrients) and 20% native soil. Add slow release fertilizer and a few worms found in the yard when lucky all mixed in initial pot without plants.once a month add fast release fertilizer on top ( about 1-2 table spoons).

Plants:

Few days after preparing the soil and pots I add plants from propitiated stems or seedlings ( harvested seeds from California Italian tomatoes found at...Costco Japan haha). I also add a small propagated basil plant or two to the big pots. This is my third year doing this "style" and the first time with this issue(s).

Current care:

On all plants I have removed the yellowing/ golding spotted fruit. Current new fruit is small and the normal green. A few plants as a test have removed old leaves. Others i have left the same. All new growth is green with light yellowing on the leaves.

Lots of possibilities. Let's start with these:

Next time, no rocks in the bottom. Contrary to popular wisdom, adding them does NOT improve drainage.

Next time, also forget about adding worms to your containers. They won't help.

Watering container plants every 2nd or 3rd day during hot weather is most likely too little water.

Watering for 3 to 6 seconds may be too little. Best to plan for 10 percent excess to drain from the bottom.

The new image with yellow edges on stunted leaves may be herbicide (weed killer damage or nutrient problem.

What if anything are you using for fertilizer?

Undersized fruits may be due to too few leaves and/or too little water.

As I said previously, I use fertilizer once a month (1-2 tbl spoons). Plus a slow release fertilizer when prepping the soil.

Watering should be fine, I check the soil daily and add when needed. Trying to stay on a schedule. Coffee grounds in the soil also help to keep soil moist and high humidity doesn't sap the soil in high temper urea as well. Past splitting was because of a giant fluctuation in temperate a while back. None have split since, and new tomatoes do now show the yellow or gold shimmer...

too few leaves would make sense...since most have or are dying off. New growth continues to have the same issue if not wortpse withought spraying. I have notice my eggplant plants every few days not sprayed are " attacked" by spider web like things on the new buds and leaves...they are in close proximity to my tomatoes...

I looked at 3 neighbors that also have tomatoes. 1 had healthy tomatoes while the other 2 appeared to have the same issue as mine. Yellowing leave tips on all new growth, dieing leaves and small production.

A typhoon is hitting the area I live directly as I type, so I will see what survives tomorrow night.

Lost most of the tomatoes in my yard along with some other plants because of the typhoon. I have taken some clippings to salvage the tomatoes I had damaged. I will be updating after the cuttings take root in a few days.