New house, Septic/leach Field Replacement placed in escrow whois wrong
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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planting over septic field?
Comments (14)I wouldn't worry about roots affecting your leach field if you are planting annuals. If it is perennials, then you might have the roots get into the lines, just as tree roots will, and plug it up. To play it super safe, you could avoid root crops, but the purpose of the leach field is to remove/kill the bacteria and viruses in the sewage before it gets anywhere. If your lines are buried 5-6 feet deep, the microbes should never work upwards that far for a standard septic design--the water should move outwards and downwards, not upwards. It should never get to the surface. If it did, runoff from heavy rains would be putting the bacteria into the waterways and causing the problems a leach field is designed to prevent. Now if you had an evaporative type system, then you would be bringing the water to the surface and may not want an edible garden on top. Plant roots themselves will not transport the nasty microbes to the surface, only the nutrients and water they absorb. The different results of green/dry people have had really do make sense. In drier climates, grass roots will move downwards to seek water and find it in the leach field. When dry, the grass will stay green over the leach field due to the underground water it is getting. In wetter areas, the grass doesn't have to root as deep to usually have good moisture, but the soil over the leach field usually has very good drainage, so during dry periods, the ground will dry out quickly and the grass turn brown....See MoreTree options for septic field - SC
Comments (18)I just moved into a new home and we have a septic system and drain field. I checked out the Virgina COOP Extension and they have good advice. But, my drain field is on my front lawn - and I know exactly where it is because when they seeded and mulched my front lawn, you can see where the drain field is because it was dryer and the seed didn't sprout as fast as other places. Our soil here is good but filled with small rocks. It has a lot of clay, but not as much as my old home. So far I'm planting shrubs and perennials near the house - which is over the pipe going out to the septic tank. I've also planted a Bald Cypress about 50 feet up hill from the septic tank cover and a Dawn Redwood about 70 feet up hill from the septic tank cover. I feel they are both far enough away from the drain field. I'm also planting some smaller varieties of maples at the end of my lot - and that's about 50 - 60 feet from the end of the drain field. From what I've read I should have no problems. The main drain field will only have grass over it - that's all. But if I have a problem with the grass there, I think I'll put in a bed of Daylilies or something that will cover and add beauty to the area. Good luck with your Chestnut tree - they are beautiful trees and I hate seeing it cut down, but if it's screwing up your septic system, you have to do it. Ken...See MoreSeptic drainage field (slow draining)
Comments (15)Castoff, Sounds like you have systems that are similar to Vermont's. We also have open and closed systems, distribution boxes, etc. The 2 systems with pumps that I described both had leaching areas remote from and higher than the tank and so had to be pumped. In this area if it is all clay soil, I can almost gurantee that a raised leaching area would be required..here they are called "mound systems." In my dealings (until new State laws were passed 3 or 4 yrs ago) each town or city had its own regulations. The smaller towns did nothing. They left it up to home owners and local contractors to design and build their own systems. In most of these cases they were rural communities and the landowners had many acres...the practice was to just build something big enough and to heck with any fancy design. The State of VT now has to issue permits for all designs. The trade off for this regulation is that they will now accept "modern" systems that allow systems in soils that would never work before. When a system is being designed a "perk test:" has to be done on the soil. A hole is dug with a back hoe and the engineer/designer establishes soil conditions at different levels. Then water is poured into the hole and a timing is done to determine how long it takes for the water to leach out. I can tell you that in the civilized areas here, the clay soild conditions that you describe, especially with seasonal high water, would never pass and would require a built up mound system I must confess that I haven't fooled with systems for about 8 years and don't know the specs on the new systems that are allowed or if the new tanks are 2 chambered. I know that many of the designers are requiring filters on the outgoing side of the tank. Possibly this serves the same purpose as the 2 chamber tank. Once a year, you pull the filter out of the inspection hole on the outgoing side and hose it off. I hope that the PO finds some solution. It would be too bad to find out that money had been spent on a design that doesn't work. If it only floods on a seasonal basis, then it does sound like a design problem. If that was the case and it wasn't too terrible, I would investigate anything that might lessen the water flow to the system.....low flow fixtures....toilets, shower heads, etc. I guess I'm trying to think of ways to save someone money, but this system could be beyond that. I don't know what part of Canada the PO is in. I owned property in rural Quebec in a small towwn. I can tell you that there was no regulation (20 yrs ago) over septic systems...at least no regulation that was enforced unless it was a newly constructed building. This town was small enough that the town clerk's office was in the living room of his house and was only open 2 nights per week:-)...See Moreleach field advice
Comments (1)"What we figure is that the man who previously owned our house went crazy with a backhoe and now there is only a few inches of soil on top of the field in that area." If he drove a backhoe on the leach field when removing soil he may very well have crushed laterals in the field. Adding fill on top to restore the surface might help, but without a better diagnosis of what is really wrong you are just shooting in the dark. If there is a broken connection it needs to be repaired. If you have a "black 'puddle' in our front yard" it sounds like a completely failed system. Once solids move from the tank into the field the field is quickly ruined. The solids clog up the normal path for the water to move deeper into the earth. Start saving up for a large job, and hope the county does not condemn the field and make you move out of the house....See MoreRelated Professionals
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