Terrible Raised Bed Soil- what to do?!
fordido
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
We built new raised beds this Spring and filled them with a blend from a local landscaper- supposedly 70% screened topsoil & 30% organic compost. Immediately upon filling the beds, I wasn’t impressed with it. Seemed like it had a pretty high clay content and wasn’t light and frillable at all. I figured maybe I was just spoiled from getting better quality soil in the past. But the plants have been in for over a month and everything is showing signs of unhappiness. Stunted growth, leaf discoloration etc. I attached some pictures to give you an idea- including one of a marigold sprout in my garden and one from a seed I dropped in the yard when planting. The one in the yard is healthy and 10x the size! I’m incredibly frustrated after all the hard work building and filling these beds.
We will likely end up digging out most of the soil in fall, replacing with something else and planting a winter cover crop. But is there anything I can do to salvage the garden this summer? I have been fertilizing every other week alternating between fish emulsion & Texas Tomato Food’s vegetable formula. I’m also dropping off a soil sample for testing next week for further info. I would love any suggestions you may have for us. Thank you!
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Fire ants right now in my raised bed soil. What to do?
Comments (17)DE isn't harmful to the lungs unless you make a point of fluffing it into a cloud and then inhaling it. DE from fresh-water sources (Food grade) is less irritating to the lungs than DE from salt-water sources. You can use one of those common dust masks if you want. I've used DE on our version of the fire ant, the thatch ant. I tried everything I could think of: boiling water, vinegar, bleach, poisoned sugar water, poisoned meat. I got a pound of DE and sprinkled it over the mounds. It slowed them down, but didn't stop them. Then I found a fifty-pound bag of DE for $15 and got it. Since DE is quite light, it's a BIG bag. I took a 3-lb coffee can and coated the mounds with DE half an inch thick. If it didn't penetrate their carapace, by golly, I was gonna make 'em CHOKE on it! Well, I guess I had put it on thick enough (!) so all the ants were forced to wade through it and take it into the nest area to the queen. It got them, and they haven't come back. And I see no mounds anywhere else, either (in the past, I had annoyed them so they moved). The stuff is cheap, and non-toxic to earthworms, bees, pets and kids. It's safe to eat, and it even contains trace amounts of desirable minerals. It works by sucking the moisture from the insects' bodies, including fleas and cockroaches. If you looked at DE under a microscope, you would swear you were looking at sharp shards of glass. Some information says it takes one to three days to kill the insects. DE only works when it is dry. And because it acts physically, not chemically, the insects can't become resistant to it. To make sure you're getting the non-toxic kind, make sure it says something like CODEX FOOD GRADE. Call around to your local farm supply stores -- some of them should carry it, as farmers like to mix it with grain and feed it to their livestock, as it's also supposed to help keep flies down. NEVER get the kind that is mixed with an insecticide, or the kind that is used for swimming pool filters. Stick to the food grade kind. Sue...See MoreWhat soil do i fill my raised beds with?
Comments (6)Let's consider two issues in turn: what kind of soil, and then how much. The quality of your produce is directly related to the quality of the dirt they grow out of. This makes sense, because plants consist of energy from the sun, oxygen and carbon from the atmosphere, and matter from the soil in which they live. Therefore, it is worth your while to make sure that your beds are full of good dirt. You want to pay attention to a few factors in garden soil, mainly nutrient content and drainage. Once you know what you want, you can buy cheap ingredients and mix them to get what you desire. Base: good ol' dirt A good base for a garden soil mix is the cheap topsoil that you can get at your garden center. Lots of stores sell topsoil for cheap in the spring, like maybe $2 or less for a 40-pound bag. That seems like a lot of dirt, but it's really a negligible amount once you start filling in your bed. Nutrients: compost & peat moss You also want to have a lot of nutrients, so it is a good idea to add in some compost. It's great if you're making it, if not they sell it at garden stores. It's incredibly rich, so it's okay to mix in only a bag or two per raised bed. Peat moss is also a good idea, as it is full of organic matter. It comes in big bags, and is really concentrated so you don't need all that much to have an effect, maybe half a bag for a medium-sized bed. Drainage: sand/vermiculite & peat moss You also need drainage, which refers to the ability of water to seep out of the topsoil. (This is what distinguishes a swamp or marsh from "good" land where you can grow things like tomatoes or corn.) This is aided by little holes in the soil. Since water seeks the lowest level, raised beds inherently have good drainage, but you can make the situation even better. It's a good idea to break up your substrate (the area under your bed) pretty well with a fork or spade before building your bed. You also want to make sure to mix in your added soil with some of your substrate, because an abrupt border can lead to problems with compaction: sometimes roots will never penetrate the substrate if it's not mixed, and drainage will be reduced. It's a good idea to mix some sand into your bed's soil to increase drainage; vermiculite (the white chunks in potting soil) also works, but then it looks too much like potting soil and not enough like a garden for my tastes. The light texture of peat moss can also aid quite a bit in creating better drainage, in addition to the nutrient benefits. That said, it will take a LOT of dirt to fill your raised beds. I built some beds that are 5' wide, 10' long, and 1' high. Each one required a bag of peat moss and 1,600 pounds of topsoil! That's 40 bags of that cheap topsoil, which even at a low price came out to hundreds of dollars for a few beds. I highly recommend against using potting soil or your bill will easily stretch into the thousands of dollars. The way to do it on a budget is to: 1) buy cheap materials 2) mix it yourself 3) use topsoil that is on sale, or maybe even free from a local landfill 4) you can even fill the bottom with straw: a straw bale is pretty cheap and gets you a lot of organic matter. It will biodegrade in a year or two if it's buried at the bottom of your bed, it will increase drainage, it will not hurt your plants, and it's a lot easier to move than dirt. In Scandinavia, they traditionally grow potatoes in straw without even any dirt, and they do fine (plus then they come out totally clean!) 5) don't use potting soil! unless it's old potting soil that you have tossed in your compost pile or something I hope all that helps -- good luck building! Also, it might be a good idea to line the bottom with chicken wire or hardware cloth if you have problems with varmints in your area (so they can't dig up into your bed), or to line the bottom with landscape fabric (to prevent grass etc. from growing up into your bed)...See MoreHow do you raise the soil in a raised bed?
Comments (5)I know what you mean! It seems like the soil gets used up. I just dig up the plants and replant them after refilling the box to the new level. Obviously, you can't do that if the plants are too fragile to take that kind of treatment as in a nursery bed. I have one bed that I use just for nursery purposes and the level keeps going down and I will have to wait until most of the plants are moved to more permanent quarters to refill that box. My beds are 4 feet across and 6,8 or 12 feet long and filled with compost from my livestock. I don't till or agitate the soil in them but add layers to them sort of like lasagna beds. spiderwoman...See MoreI have heavy clay soil, and raised beds won't work. Do I amend
Comments (13)Many kinds of maples are adapted to heavy soils and are planted in them by the thousands, as along streets for instance. It is the Japanese maple that is unusually touchy about drainage. If this planting site is big enough your best bet would be to excavate the clay soil and replace with lighter soil. If it is a narrow strip and the area becomes quite wet even that may not work, water coming in from the sides. Planting a tree or shrub over loosened soil is not a good idea because as the soils settles after planting the new specimen may sink to a level below the desired depth. Digging organic matter into a heavy soil will not have a lasting effect on the texture of the soil as the organic matter will gradually decompose and disappear. Even when non-decomposing amendments such as sand are used to alter the texture of backfill if the planting area is a small one there will still be the problem of how water moves into and out of the planting area being affected. Small areas of one soil texture surrounded by a much larger area of another are often a setup for problems. A large bed of soil amended with sand or similar material will also pose the problem of what to do when the dug over area rises up like a loaf of bread after the amendments are dug in - unless a soil already has a fairly high sand content a huge amount must be used to alter the texture of the finished bed significantly. If you can't excavate and replace a wide area of soil there or put a layer of more suitable soil over the top then it many just be that you can't safely plant Japanese maples in that particular spot. However, since you are in a fairly mild climate zone possibly it would be acceptable to plant them in suitably large tubs and place these on top of crushed rock or other covering in the same location....See More
Patti Chicago Zone 5b/6a
3 years ago
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chadinlg Zone 9b Los Gatos CA