Best Commercial Cactus/Succulent Soil Mix?
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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christine 5b
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Whats the best pre-mixed soil for Succulants?
Comments (12)Adding sand to a potting soil mix is not usually a good idea. Sand is not coarse enough to improve drainage with typical potting soil ingredients such as peat, bark, or coir, it will just weigh down the soil and clog up the spaces which already exist. In these soils you need a very coarse, and preferably light, aggregate such as pumice or perlite. Grit is sufficiently coarse but can collapse "fluffy" soils such as peat. Sand can improve the drainage of loams, that is soils which are based on clay. In circumstances when high levels of clay particles cause a drainage problem, the drainage can be improved by adding enough sand that the clay particles are kept apart and air pockets are maintained. Cacti and succulents are often grown in loam soils, but in a pot even a sandy loam generally has insufficient drainage and a more coarse material such as grit is also required. In summary, sand will rarely help drainage in a pot, use a material with larger particles like pumice, grit, perlite, etc....See Morebest commercial soil for cacti and succulents
Comments (3)There is no such thing. You could take a commercial brand and mix it with vermiculite and some pea gravel or unpainted fishtank gravel. I would use 40% vermiculite, 40% pea gravel or unpainted fishtank gravel, and 20% commercial mix. You could search in container gardening forum for Succulent mix. There is a good one there. I really have not found anything commercial that's any good....See MoreWhat does the near perfect Cactus/Succulent soil consist of?
Comments (6)Most use a 'gritty mix' - and many variations of it, depending on what substrates are available to them. The idea is to understand why to mix your own and why 'gritty' - how it works, and then it is easier to adjust, not only for availability of different material but also for climate/conditions they are grown in. If you search for gritty mix on this forum, there are hundreds threads on the subject. Here is just one of them:-click here- -and/or here- It explains about both 5-1-1 and gritty (1-1-1) mixes....See Moreshould I plant hoya in african violet soil or cactus/succulent soil
Comments (9)The best mix for a hoya is actually soil free. Pick up a bag of fine grade orchid mix (Lowes sells a good orchid mix made by Gubler, get the one in the blue bag). Hoyas are NOT cacti and succulents, and they should not be treated as such. There are some hoyas (austalis ssp. oramicola/rupicola) that would rather be watered once a month, and some hoyas that are very thirsty (buotii, lasiantha, praetorii, javanica/multiflora) and do best grown semi-hydro. The average hoya (carnosa, pubicalyx, most pottsiis, obovata, etc.); however, does best being watered once every 7-10 days. Hoyas are tropical/subtropical plants, and as a rule, they thrive on heat and humidity. There are also exceptions to this rule. Hoyas are epiphytes. In nature, most hoyas grow up trees, using their aerial roots to attach to the trunks. Because hoyas are epiphytic in nature, soil should be avoided or used minimally. Hoyas need a well-draining, airy mix that will provide their roots with enough moisture and areation to prevent rot. The issue with using soil, even when it is mixed in with perlite, is that it compacts. Every time you water, the smaller soil particles sink to the bottom of the pot, compacting together. This leads to blocked drain holes and can cause root rot. The key to a successful, well-draining potting media is to make sure each of your ingredients is the same size. This is another reason I am fond of my mix (1/4 inch orchiata bark, 1/4 inch new zealand sphagum moss or 1/4 inch hydroton balls, and 1/4 inch perlite, one part each...so, if I make 3 cups of mix, it is one cup each ingredient). My mix is expensive, and, unless you have over 300 hoyas, you don't need it (heck, even I don't need it, but it works for me, so I stick with it). I suggested an orchid mix as a substitute, and hoyas do very well in orchid mix. The average hoya should be fed 1/4 strength fertilizer at every watering. I use MiracleGro water soluble tomato food (1/4-1/2 TEAspoon per gallon of water) because it is inexpensive and provides all the micro and macronutrients. The reason you feed at every watering is because in nature, hoyas are fed naturally, in very small amounts. The mists from the jungles run down the trees, and onto the aerial roots of the hoya. Inside this mist water, macro and micronutrients from vegetative decomposition and animal excriment, nourish the hoya in small amounts. Flush your plant once a month to rid the pot of any excess fertilizer residue. You do this by watering the plant for 2-3 minutes straight or soaking the entire pot, plant and all for 2-3 minutes. Hoyas also, for the most part, prefer being rootbound. This means if you repot, don't use a pot bigger than 2 inches larger than the rootball. They like it snug. When you get ready to repot your hoya: *Soak your orchid mix overnight. This flushes out any ecessive tannis that may be present in the bark. It also rids the mix of dust. *The next day, drain and rinse your mix thoroughly. *Remove your plant from the pot. Gently rinse as much of the old potting mix/soil off of the rootball. At this time, check the roots. They should be firm and lack any foul odor. Also, check the stem where the roots attach from. A wee bit of yellow coloration is okay, as long as the stem is firm and has no foul odor. If the stem is soggy, peeling, black, or has a foul odor, you may need to restart your plant entirely by taking cuttings. *Set your plant aside. * If you are using a new pot, soak it in a 1:10 part bleach water solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) for 10 minutes or so. Rinse thoroughly. If you are reusing your old pot, rinse all the soil off first, and then soak in bleach water solution for 10 minutes or so and rinse. *Add 1 inch of your orchid mix to the bottom of your pot. Place the rootball of your plant in the pot. Add a bit of mix at a time, gently shaking the plant and pot to get the mix thoroughly around the rootball. Once the rootball is thorougly covered in the mix, top off around the base of the plant, if needed. *Wait a week and water....See MoreSoCal Stewart (San Diego, Ca Zone 10A/10B)
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