IMO, the cabs and furniture need to coordinate, but not necessarily match. For example, we have white perimeter cabinets in the kitchen with merlot colored hood & island. Kitchen is open to family room with 2 built-ins in a slightly off white color. Cubbies are just around the corner from kitchen and can be seen through the doorway--they are also slightly off white. There is enough distance between the whites that you don't notice they don't match--they just coordinate. Our master bedroom furniture has a mahogany finish with antiqued gold pulls, the master bath has espresso vanities with antique pewter pulls and you can see from one room into the other. Again, they are just far enough apart that you really don't notice the difference & they coordinate. Stained furniture can be coordinated with painted vanities/cabinets & vice versa. Unless you're planning something totally outlandish, I think you'll be just fine. Hope this helps!

Hi mama goose, Thank you very much for your help! I appreciate it! This is going to be a 4th bedroom in the house, no tub needed just a walking in shower, would be nice to have the shower and the seat within the shower. Good point, about the positioning, I imagine mainly the toilet for it to be again the LR wall, in the diagram it's just against the wall for the living room, I would imagine ideally, the shower and the toilet should be on the L/R wall, or if it's to many issues spend extra money and move the bathroom to t he corner away from the living room? About interference between bathroom and bedroom doors, the bedroom door could open toward the living room instead of toward the bedroom (which I'm guessing is not good design?). Pull out storage for the bathroom sounds great! Thank you

Nothing wrong with mixing up colors. The colors should coordinate a bit so they flow from one room to another. My master suite is three rooms in an "L" shape, the sitting room is in the middle. All three rooms are open to one another with doorless archways, so they do flow visually. The center room, the sitting room, has deep red/burgundy walls and a cream/ivory trim color. Off one side of the sitting room is the bathroom. The the trim and cabinets are the same cream/ivory as the sitting room, but the wall are somewhat beige. Off to the other side of the sitting room is our bedroom. In there the walls are sort of a cream/ivory, and the trim/cabinets/wainscot is a deep muted historical green. The cream/ivory sort of ties the three rooms together and the other colors sort of bounce off that. For bathrooms which can be dominated by hard surfaces (fixtures/tile/stained wood) where the color of those items can be difficult or expensive to change, I usually recommend that those hard surfaces be a neutral or somewhat muted color. Then the wall color, or soft accent items like towels and throw rugs, curtains, etc, which are easy to change, be the stronger and sometimes more vibrant accent color. The hard surface colors in our bathroom are sort of neutral (cream cabinets and trim, beige walls, natural teak for the countertops and tub deck, tile is cream and charcoal), we change the color of the towels/rugs whenever we feel like it. Sometimes to a strong color; deep green, cranberry red, etc, sometimes to a soft neutral like beige, off-white, etc. And there is nothing wrong experimenting with colors either, especially paint. At roughly 10 cents a square foot coverage for basic formulations, paint color can be inexpensive and fairly easy to change.

I’m considering doing sw contented in my bedroom & canvas tan in the bathroom because it matches pre- existing tile better. I didn’t know if it would flow better to match the paint colors? Or is it acceptable to do 2 colors? The contented paint color helps the flow of my downstairs area & would look beautiful with my off white furniture.