Good read here. Looking to learn a lot since I'm fairly new to embroidery. I have a Baby Lock Allure and recently purchased the PED basic. I am using My Editor software to edit designs and save my files. I'm beginning to become frustrated after two months of figuring it all out. I was resizing my files in my editor, saving and then opening in ped basic. Ped basic apparently doesn't recognize the editing of size instead pulls up the original size. I emailed Brother and more or less was told PED only transfers the pes file to the card. I'm thinking this is a huge limitation. Am I misunderstanding? Is there other software that PED will recognize changes? Hope someone can enlighten me.

OK, - Yes the stone and what I think is your lilac. To me the two 'spots' would look better as one larger free form. - By 'extension' I meant the section on the right (2 windows) that extends out. A Nootkatensis is a big tree, but it doesn't grow as large as it does in its native Alaska. 20-25 feet 15 years maybe. Natives can triple that. - Yes single DeGroots. I think centered on the side panels they would fit in nice and they are fantastic when they are full grown. - I have some small leaved PJM rhodies (very common) and pruning them after blooming will keep them in check. Mine are under windows and I take my electric trimmers once a year and keep them low and round off the edges. - I was thinking Sagae on the left side of the house. They will get 3-4 feet wide and are nice looking hosta. Good for shade and thick leaves for slug resistance. This is a photo of where I think Liberty would be great. This is Liberty with Hakonakloa grasses. It is the 2015 hosta of the year named by hosta growers who have picked it as low cost, quick growing and easily tissue cultured which means it should be readily available. My mail order favorites are Hallsons and Naylor but there are many and you can probably find it locally as well although maybe not in 'box stores'. Steve 'Massachusetts' a hybridizer himself, has a thread going on the hosta forum about places to buy. Link here --- Places to buy hosta - The flower bed I pictured would extend out past the walkway in front and two cherry trees or Japanese Maples centered in between the four windows and the two windows They are smaller and shouldn't block the view or light. mad-gallica- I have herds of deer and over 150 hosta. Spraying with an egg mixture (main ingredient of most repellents) with some pepper keeps them in check as well as having a dog that leaves her scent. Deer and rabbits are a problem, but they do not bother either the hosta or the rhododendron near the house. Away from the house, they are definitely a problem. They also forage in woods rather than come near the house and when they get real hungry in the winter the hosta are dormant. Also my PJMs in the front of the house never get touched. I'm glad you liked some of the ideas and I'm sure you might substitute some other ideas. I wish I had a program to show a sketch of my thoughts. Best of luck with your project and ask away if you think I can answer any other questions. Jon

First, I should say that I mentioned the idea of "specimen" because in your inspiration picture #3, it seems to have a number of what I'd gather to be large trees with the spruce, maybe a maple tree (not sure), but then a bunch of smaller shrubs with the dogwood, and ninebark, and then a smaller tree with the Japanese Lilac? on the far right . Usually a single tree on its own would be the specimen, and in many professional plans, the specimen would be flanked by groupings of much smaller plants/shrubs. So you don't have to have "specimen" items, but if you decided to have a single redbud in a hedge border, you'd probably want it to stand out, hence be the specimen, and you wouldn't want it to be lost in a sea of shrubbery. In the inspiration picture #3, the Japanese Lilac is a beautiful small tree on its own, but once the nearby spruce trees grow, you really won't be able to see it as a beautiful specimen tree. Say your specimen is the redbud. (We can't grow them in Ottawa, so I'm not familiar other than they look stunning on google). I gather that it is a relatively small tree (as compared to maples). It seems to me that because it is such a stunning tree and it is relatively small, you don't want to place the largest of the large shrubbery underneath it or right beside it. Ninebark from what I've seen are quite large, 8feet or so (but maybe there are dwarf varieties?), so I wouldn't put a grouping of ninebark right nearby unless they can be maintained at about 3 or 4 feet, but I like the ivory halo dogwoods because they are the smaller version of the standard dogwoods. Where I live, the ivory halos are maybe 4 feet high, so a nice height. And they are very easily trimmable. Again, I'm not familiar with redbud, but I could suppose that a grouping of ivory halo dogwoods might be nice on one side, and on the other side, another similar sized shrub - hydrangeas? I think you could also do more than one redbud side by side, but I wouldn't do a redbud right beside a serviceberry tree, especially if they have the same form and the same projected height+width. I'm not sure of the mature size of the service berry - I've only ever noticed them in my area as 10 feet high shrubs, but I see them on the internet as small trees. If they grow to a similar pattern as the redbud in your area, then I'd separate the redbud from the serviceberry and consider the serviceberry as its own "specimen".All of this is not to say you can't have 8-10 feet high shrubs - it is just that they should be visually separated from the specimen tree, especially if the specimen tree is relatively speaking, small. If it is a huge maple tree, no problem. So if it were me, and I had a redbud, I'd probably flank it on either side with relatively small shrubs, and then go for the larger 8-10 feet high shrubs like ninebarks. I don't think the blueberry shrubs can grow where I live, so I'm not familiar with them. But so far it sounds like you've started to simplify your plan and it sounds good. You might want to think about working in some evergreen along the right side of the property - you had mentioned a fir tree at one point. I don't know the mature size, but if large, maybe it could be a "specimen" along the side, but closer to the house.

I'm not sure what a bin pull is, Cabinet hardware tends to fall into three categories. Knobs, Pulls, and Cup Pulls: Within each of those three categories, you'll find many, many styles ... but these are the three basic shapes. You can mix and match. For example, you could go with Pulls or Cup Pulls on your lower cabinets but Knobs on your uppers ... or you could use Pulls everywhere ... or you could use Pulls everywhere except Knobs on upper-upper stacked cabinets. Here are a couple pictures of mixed hardware: The only real "rule" about what's best is that you can't really use Cup Pulls on uppers. If you're going to use all the same shape, you're probably going with Pulls. As for size, that's personal preference, but I suspect most people would fall in line with something like this: If your cabinet is 30" or smaller, one (centered) piece of hardware is fine ... though if you prefer the look of two, it wouldn't be wrong. If you're looking at a larger cabinet, you might need to go with two. It's true that no "standard" size exists, but most hardware is attached to the drawer with two posts, and those posts tend to be 3"-4" apart. If you stay in that size range, you'll have literally hundreds -- if not thousands -- of choices of hardware. If you want something longer (for example, if you're going for a contemporary look and want one very long single pull on every cabinet), you'll find a very limited number of styles, but lengths up to perhaps 24". And, of we're not talking about style preference at all. That's purely a matter of aesthetics. I'm absolutely in love with my new kitchen hardware, which has a Celtic knot look and will tie into small accent tiles on my backsplash: