I looked at the pictures pretty closely and it appears the water is returning through rigid transparent pipe. My reasons are the total lack of water droplets in the air and the very low level of splash in the pond. That is going to be a problem for you. Problem 1. The pipe is likely made for that company by some manufacturer out there and it would be protected by a patent along with any connectors. Problem 2. I am guessing but the input end of the tubing would have to be sunk in concrete or similar weighty substance to avoid having it fall into or across the pond. You might notice the far end of all those arching pipes are hidden by a stone mass. The force of the water flowing through the pipe adds to the problem of a securely anchored base. Problem 3. Transparent tubing grows algae really fast. It would be blocked and really ugly really fast unless the water was loaded with chlorine or some other algaecide. Keeping it clean would be an ongoing task. Problem 4. Re Problem 3: You might have a pond free of algae but any splash is going to kill some plants around the pond if you need that much chemical. Problem 5. The 2 foot width of the pond is going to require the output end of the tubing be very close to the surface of the water to prevent water loss from splashing. It may be so close you will lose the aesthetic you want. On the other hand, maybe my observations are all wrong. You might want to do a little more research. A smaller water arch coming from the ends of a shorter pond might be doable. Sandy

In southern MS, pretty much all brugs should be hardy in the ground for you. The topgrowth dies back after more than 4-6 hours at 27 degrees or less, but the rootball can survive longer, colder temps---as long as they're not wet. Wet + cold = rot. Potted brugs generally grow more slowly than ones planted in-ground, but they can eventaully get quite big. But remember, the soil in pots gets colder/freezes quicker than the soil in the ground, so unless you plant on bringing that big pot indoors, you have a higher risk of losing the brug to the winter cold. The soil in pots also gets hotter during the summer, and requires more frequent watering. Then there's the 'bucket method', which I use for my more temper brugs, chiefly those with Versicolor genes. I take a 3-gallon bucket and drill several 1" holes around the sides, but NOT in the bottom. I plant the brug in the b ucket, then plant bucket and all into the ground. Come fall, I cut around the outside of the bucket and lift the whole plant for overwintering in my greenhouse. I cut back the top just what's needed in order to get it inside, but I do strip off all the leaves. They generally drop them all anyway, and removing them while still outside eliminates the risk of bringing in pest eggs on them. I think it also helps the plant deal with the shock of root-pruning, by giving it a little chance to recover before it has to support the water needs of full-sized leaves. My in-ground brugs have gotten bigger each year. The oldest one, a nameless, seed-grown white, puts tp about a dozen trunks each year now, and they usually make it to 10-12' before first frost. Brugs aren't all that deeply rooted, I've learned from digging them up. They spread out pretty wide, but not deep, and they have a tendancy to break or blow over in high winds. One way to avoid damage when you're expecting strong winds (like when there's a tropical storm coming) is to remove most of the big leaves. Brugs drop and replace leaves constantly, so this doesn't seem to hurt them. Of the ones you mention, I've had CG and Frosty Pink in the ground here sor several years now. Both are quite hardy and heavy, work-horse bloomers. I find they're happiest here with direct sun from dawn to mid-day, then bright, indirect light until late afternoon.

Hi Tom and welcome to the Photography forum. I have no personal experience with your camera so I opted to call up a copy of the owners manual to check some of the specifications, and I must say, for a point & shoot camera I was very impressed. I will try to take your questions in order and I am sure others will follow with even more information. Q: "Is it better to shoot the original at 10-14 mp and then reduce the pics, or shoot at 1 or 2 mp?" A:..Digital cameras record pictures by breaking them down into microfine dots of colored light, then recording the position of those dots. The term MP (mega pixels) is defining how many million dots per inch that is actually being recorded. In photography we refer to the quality of the detail as the "Resolution" of the picture. In a nutshell, the more MP that are recorded by your camera, the finer the detail it records. The question then becomes, how many MP do I need? The answer here depends upon what you intend to do with the pictures. If all you really desire are 4x5 or 4x6 full frame photos for the family album, then in most cases anything in the order of 4 to 6mp will suite your needs but, if you intend to go into post processing (editing and correcting on the computer) you will no doubt want to occassionally "crop" a photo, which means you cut a smaller section out of the photo and blow that up to full frame or you may occassionally have a photo that you want to blow up to 8 x 10, 11 x 14 or even poster size at 24 x 36. In order for your computer to expand the image it has to widen the dots and when we begin to seriously enlarge an image we begin to see a loss in image quality and often microfine white dots, which are defined in the electronics industry as "noise". Technically speaking the noise is generated when the dots are expanded too far and the camera or computer is left with open spaces between the dots, which it fills in with a white dot, but you need not know all that. Just suffice it to say that the larger the output you desire the more MP of information you need to give the computer to work with. Although nearly all cameras today are shooting in the 10 to 15MP range, even 6MP is sufficient to produce very good results for full frame images enlarged up to 8x10. Having said all of that, it also depends upon the physical size of the digital sensor that is in the camera. Obviously even if they are both rated at 12MP a 1/4" wide sensor in a cell phone cannot record as much data as a 2-1/2" sensor in a professional DSLR. Q:..Is it better to shoot the original at 10-14 mp and then reduce the pics, or shoot at 1 or 2 mp? A. I would always shoot the photo at the maximum resolution. In this manner you will have an archive photo that can be reduced for email or printed to a larger size. When I want to post a photo in a forum I pull the photo up in my editing program, reduce it, then hit "save as" and give it another file name or an extension on the file name, by example, when I reduce a photo for email I give add the word email to the file name and save that as a separate file. Q: Somebody told me there are different kinds of SD cards A. Basically there are two types of cards, SD cards and SDHC cards, which are high capacity cards. Tyically HD cards range from about 128kb to 2GB while the HD cards go up to 32GB and possibly more. I checked the specifications on your camera and the internal software will support using both SD & SDHC cards up to 32GB although I personally don't use any cards larger than 4GB. You can buy 2GB or 4GB cards on Ebay for about $5 to $7 with free S&H, whereas a 32GB card is in the order of $80. I just find it cheaper and more convenient to carry a couple spare 4GB cards, although in all honesty generally even one 4GB card is sufficient for most of my outings. By example, when shooting my Pentax K10d (10.2MP) if I shoot in RAW mode, which produces the highest resolution I can get up to 175 photos on one 4GB card or if I opt to set the camera on the highest resolution in JPEG mode I can get 804 frames on the same card. If I were to select the lowest resolution in JPEG mode I could get 2366 frames on one card. As you can see, if you were to get even one 4Gb SDHC card you could probably take your camera on a weeks vacation and never worry about running out of film, so to speak. If you do shoot a lot of photos I would stronly encourage you to get a couple extra rechargeabe batteries. They take up precious little space in the camera bag, but there is no worse feeling that being somewhere and just as your ready to shoot, the battery is dead. My camera will shoot over 700 frames on one battery, but I still never go in the field without two spares. Q...What's a good picture size to use for posting on forums like gardenweb? I use "Photoscape" to resize my photos for the web. The program is a free download from Google and in the editor mode it has a button marked "Resize". When you hit that button a window opens and you choose the width size you want. For the Web I generally hit the 900, which produces a photo at 900 x 598MP. (careful here, when you resize the photo be sure to use the "Save AS" and add an extension or give a new file name. This way it will not effect your archive photo. i sincerely hope this have offered you some help and I am sure others will soon add more info.

yes if you have wireless in your home through a router which it sounds like you do then you have wifi that is all wifi is a wireless network connection no matter where it happens to be located. 4G is a term associated with cellular networks it is supposed to be the fastest protocol at the moment but it is not available every where so you may ask for 4G and pay for 4G but you may not get 4G you will get what ever band is available in the area you are in and in some areas if there is no coverage by that cellular network then you may not have any connection. you will have to have a cellular data plan to be able to use the 4G ability on the tablet, that will be a monthly fee with some cellular provider. I am not concerned with having that type of connection on my tablets I use mainly wifi connections. I do have a smartphone which does do all the tricks and does have a 4G plan including data so I can use my phone to access the internet where there are wifi networks available free or I can use the cellular data plan and access it through the cell towers if I am in a zone that has coverage. You will pay for that data on the cellular networks if you go over your allowed amount and it can really add up fast. So you just have to decide if you think you will use the 4G connection and if it is worth it to have to purchase a monthly plan to cover usage. I have no idea why it will cost $500 when the google nexus is so much cheaper and is a decent tablet. If it is going to be a 10 inch instead of the 7-8 inch that will be part of it. any cell company has a map you can look at that supposedly shows the coverage areas for the various bands like 4G 3 G etc.