FWIW - I wrote & posted this about using H2O2 in containers a number of years ago and several times since. H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, and the free O- H2O2 releases is very effective at this. Additionally, when plants growing in water-retentive media are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi. I know H2O2 comes in several different strengths, the most common of which are 3% and 35% solutions. Least expensive is the 35% product (what I use) which you dilute (to an approximate 3% solution) by mixing 1:11 with water. I have used the 3% solution at 1 to 2 tbsp per gallon as a cutting dip/soak, and have mixed it into irrigation water for plants in extremely water retentive soils at up to 3 tbsp per gallon, both with good results and nothing adverse apparent. H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. A solution that is too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts. I've seen this chart posted several times as suggested strength solutions for use in watering plants. You may wish to start at a lower concentration , such as I've used, and experiment. TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 1 cup, add 1-1/2 teaspoons ... 35% - 7 to 10 drops 1 quart, add 2 tablespoons ... 35% - 1/2 teaspoon 1 gallon, add 1/2 cup ... 35% - 2 teaspoons 5 gallons, add 2-1/2 cups ... 35% - 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon 10 gallons, add 5 cups ... 35% - 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 20 gallons, add 10 cups ... 35% - 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon 1) you can use them together w/no problems, but you shouldn't need it if you're watering correctly & the gritty mix is made even CLOSE to the suggested recipe. 2) Plants are reactive organisms. They will reach favorably to increased O2 in the root zone, and unfavorably to reduced levels. If you use excessive amounts of H2O2, it can kill viable tissues, so don't over use it. 3) Your plants won't get addicted to H2O2 to any greater degree than they are addicted to water. I would urge you to lift the plant from the pot & take a look at the roots to see what's going on, then prune roots back to sound tissue if you find rot as an issue. At that point, a dunk in a solution of H2O2 or unscented household bleach might be an appropriate measure. Al

Last summer I set up a Raindrip system for my deck containers to keep them alive while I went off camping in Yosemite. Some of my containers had gritty mix, and some had grower's mix. Everything did great during the summer and fall. I mainly used adjustable full circle spray bubblers on stakes (plus a couple half-circle spray bubblers that came in the kit). For a rose bush in 20" terracotta pot in gritty mix, I think I used 2 stakes adjusted to full stream. For smaller pots with grower's mix, I adjusted the output of one bubbler down. I set the timer to water for 7 minutes every morning. I fertilized by hand every week or two. During the winter, I got very sick for a couple months and paid no attention to the plants, so they continued to get Raindrip-watered for 7 minutes while temperatures dropped into the 50s and even on days we were flooded with downpours of rain. After months of so much water and cool temps, in the spring some of the plants weren't doing so well. I turned off the system and waited for the mixes to dry out...and waited...and waited...Temps stayed very cool this year in the spring and early summer. I thought even my gritty mix was never going to dry out. I really think the plants do better watered by the long, gentle sprinkle of the spray emitters compared to the hose wand. Plus, I am a very lazy gardener, so I love the auto-watering. What I would like to try next is to add some CRF to some of the pots, maybe the roses and citrus which seem to be heavy feeders. This still won't address the pH of the water (mine is high pH), but my manual adjustments with vinegar haven't worked well either. So overall I still have adjustments to work on, but I love the emitter system because it saves LOADS of time, and all my plants, pots, and mixes did great with it during the summer.

Thank you for the advice! I was iffy about the humidity, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask. I haven't had any problem keeping up with their watering needs so far, but I wanted to get some opinions because I'll be going off to college next fall and I want to be sure that my plants could go a week or so without watering whilst I'm away. I'll give them more time and see if they start perking back up once it's warm enough to bring them outside. I've found even in 50/50 perlite/potting soil mix my plants did really well in the summer.

2 weeks is no time at all .... in tree time .... ergo.. it most likely all dates back to the transplant stresses ... you will need to focus on new growth ... and when that appears.. and looks ok ... then you know the plants roots have recovered .... but the affected leaves will never recover ... but right now.. even a damaged leaf.. can convert light to energy.. so ugly as it might be.. leave it alone ... water properly ... but dont rot the roots off trying to drown it ... the roots there will take up up what water they can ... and extra wont matter ... i would try to propagate some part off the back ... so that even if you lose the big one.. you might still end up with a piece of the plant ... ken watch a couple of them.. then choose you favorite ... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=ficus+lyrata+propagation&t=ffcm&iax=videos&ia=videos