Fixing NEW Tub/tile joint in Bathroom Remodel: clear silicone?
Hi there, our contractor has done a good job overall on a partial kitchen, bath and basement remodel/finishing project. However, I am concerned about a few things. I posted a separate post about accidental holes/chips on this tile job. This post is regarding the joint between the bottom of the tile and the tub. I do see hairline cracks in the grout and understand that as grout shrinks this happens. I want to know what to do about the cracks, but concerns me more is the discoloration of the grout at this joint. It is orange and notable. It can be scrubbed off but returns after a few days. This is a brand new tile job finished just a month ago. And, we used Mapei flex CQ grout on the recommendation of our tiler/contractor and the tile store because it is supposed to be stain resistant and easy to clean. We used their "warm grey" color so that we would avoid any discoloration issues from using white grout. Given all of this, I am very irritated that this is an issue right off the bat. We also used the Mapei Cobblestone Flex CQ grout in our kitchen and that too discolors quickly. We are a shoes-off sock and slipper-wearing household with only 3 occupants and the discoloration happens weekly. Argh. What to do?
1. Should I ask the contractor to seal the tile/tub grout joint with clear 100% silicone? If not, what other remedy would there be to seal the hairline cracks and keep this joint from turning orange weekly? The photos don't really show the orange so well. In person it is really noticeable. And this is after I cleaned it recently.
2. Should I/can I also seal the Mapei Flex CQ grout with an additional sealer? If so, which kind? I would do this myself and it's clearly not the contractors fault that the grout is not really living up to it's reputation. I just want to know if you can seal the Flex grout and what product would work best.
Tiler/contractor has been paid for 90% of the work but we haven't written the last check yet as he has a number of other odds and ends to wrap up. Advice?
Comments (8)
PROPatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Is it necessary to caulk between wall tile & tub and tub & floor?
Comments (16)The vertical wall seams crack more readily because the house shifts and moves. Ive tried grouting only and going back to caulk with sanded grout caulk or silicon only after a crack develops, hoping in some cases it will not. Sometimes it does not crack. Some contractors caulk all seams as a matter of course, no callbacks, safer. I liked the idea of sanded grout caulk to match your grout color It has not held up for me in wet conditions, such as the top of the bathtub where the wall tile starts, etc. , definitely not along the shower floor where the wall tile starts. It has held up in other areas though, and looks nicer when it all ties in. I agree, mildew on silicon is unsightly. Every bathroom has different conditions, including ventilation, moisture, etc. Some people have to clean out and recaulk the silicon every year or two. Whether its allegedly mildewproof silicon or not....See MoreMASTER BATHROOM REMODELING DISASTER
Comments (20)thatsmuchbetter: Although I also suspected that it wasn't reasonably bid, at this point your $1,000 tile job theory isn't holding up. You have an entire agenda to push and you don't care if it matches up with the facts of this case or not. For the most part we have to take the information that we get here at face value. Sure there are a lot of questions about how this job could go so wrong. If the facts are as presented - then a contractor took advantage of a consumer who didn't have a lot of sophistication about managing a job like this. To Elisia Ellis: You need to understand that if things are as you presented them, the cost of the work was probably significantly out of line for what you needed to be done even if it was done right ( I don't have all the details, so I'm hedging here). The work that was done was grossly incompetent at any price. That this could have gone so badly makes me think that you need some trusted help to resolve the problem with the current contractor and repair your bathroom. This should be a family member or trusted friend who can guide you on legal action, as well as helping you to make decisions with correcting the bathroom. It's not really likely for this to happen as you described unless a contractor was taking advantage of a homeowner without the sophistication and experience to manage such a project. You don't need to be shamed or feel ashamed -- but I think recovering your money and repairing your bathroom is going to be more complex than even the original job - and it's not something that you should go at alone. Get some assistance from someone who can help you to think through this (again, a family member or trusted friend who has business skills -- not a paid person). You will probably need legal assistance and such, but before you go there, you will probably need a trusted advocate who can commit to helping you sort through this....See MoreBathroom remodel - Bathtub and wall Gap
Comments (5)Geoffreys almost got it. In the professional world, I would make it right starting with removing this and doing it correct from framing thru to waterproofing You have the wrong tub to start and the Flange needs to be be properly lapped and the waterproofing tied into it or you will have issues in time. You need the durock to be graded toward the tub, lapped over the flange and either A moisture barrier siliconed to the flange under the durock (which is a piss poor approach when you consider putting screws thru the moisture barrier on a tub deck but it is still accpeted as a practice.) *The smarter way is to use a topical membrane that ties into the tub deck with A proper sealant that will lap the tub/durock joint and stop durock from wicking.. Also read the durock installation specs in regards to screw courses.and framing specs. If im in somebodys home accepting payment *Thats how its done..but we are on the web here....do as you wish.....See MoreTemporary fix for leaking, cracked bathroom tile floor
Comments (16)Because it seemed important to know how bad the situation is, I removed the tiles and mudboard in the problem area. Underneath is just the sheathing. You can see that most of the wood is still in tact, but it's definitely rotted in the corner by the tub. That spot is still very wet, smells earthy, and I can dig into it with my finger. In a 4" x 4" area, I could make a little 1/2 inch hole easily. Now I'm wondering if the best solution might be to: 1) wait for wood sheathing to dry; 2) put down some kind of underlayer or mortar, and then 3) just put on some of that Flex Seal - as a temporary solution. Or, should I put down some kind of PVC board, or something like that over the sheathing - and then put mortar on that - just in case there's reason to worry about the sheathing in that corner giving in. and the PVC board would keep us from falling through the ceiling (until we do the full renovation)! Thanks everyone for your help!...See MoreEsther Lorenzo
3 years ago
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PROCreative Tile Eastern CT
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