I would go with the 2700k for most areas. except for a study/ work area that would be used late into the night. A higher color temp impairs the production of melatonin which could result in difficulty sleeping. Use the flat ceiling can & trim if the angle is <= 15 degrees. The CR6 and similar lights (RT6, ...) tend to have more light spillage than the BR or PAR bulbs used in recessed lighting i.e. - less of a spotlight effect. Some people may find it tricky to get the lamps fit. If the ceiling is high - 10' or more, indirect / cove lighting may be more elegant and practical.

Thanks everyone! My struggle is that I worry if I hang drapes between windows can appear "squatty" as torreykm mentioned. Although the ceiling is vaulted but the rooms are on the small size, that's why I am concern. I do love the dining room small windows too! I like the idea of roman shades for the two small windows! I will look into those. Maybe I will get roman shades for the living area as well if I can find one that I like so that it will tie to those two small windows! Got some roman shades research to do!! Thanks all!

Make sure you know, what the length of the cord needs to be with the volume of the fixture depth added in. most fixture come with 8-12 feet of cord so that will be important. also if you want a rod look you will have to order additional rods. beige might be to close to the table color. shades of light artcraft restoration hardware

Because it wasn't specified, there is an outside chance that @Golfergal216 is Annika Sorenstam, and they will be literally golf trophies. This would make a big difference in lighting shiny brass on a shelf as opposed to taxidermy. With such a grand space, I have some reservations about your proposed lighting: - I do not see any lighting upwards, so the high ceiling will be darker. I do see 2 chandeliers out of the 3 bays, but that may be inconsistent across the room depending on fixtures chosen and extent of faux beams. - I do not know the size and extent of the faux beams, how they will interfere with the lighting, or if they can be utilized for uplighting. - I do not know if a second story overlooks this space, and whether that view is important enough to not have lumenaires in the way. - I do not know if you have a big concern about changing the lamps in the future, e.g. if you don't want to pay an electrician to use a scissor lift to change a 'bulb', then you might want to avoid recessed lights in the flat collar tie portion and not hang the chandeliers above the 16'. - I do not know if this is strictly a trophy room gallery, or has spaces set in certain areas for seating, dining, etc. and how you are lighting those spaces at the human scale. - I do not know the slope of roof, but I would guess with that steep pitch that the gimbals of the recessed housings will not aim directly down, but angled across the way a little bit so anytime you look up you will see glare. - I do not know the size of the taxidermy (e.g. rhino vs muskrat), but they only have a 6" can about 6' or so above them. Not only does a 6" can (BR40 lamp) diffuse the light out more broadly, but when looking up to about 13' where the taxidermy will be mounted it will be shadowed underneath them and you will be missing detail. - I do not see the proposed lighting doing well to accent the tall fireplace, which I assume will have nice stone and some prominent decor. As well the blank walls beside it I assume will have some decor. You don't want the lighting to eminate from differing roof slopes and you will need a specific baffle and lamp style to spread the majority of the fireplace and wall.. ________________________ These are not questions you need to answer here for me. These are things that a lighting designer will think about and you can be prepared to communicate with them. As said already, do not seek a sales consultant, but an actual designer (engineer). This space is unique (and important) enough where the lighting can go terribly wrong. I would probably be using spots, on cables, so the cables "disappear." To get a sense, go to a GAP store and study how their merchandise is lighted. I would not use the ceiling box mounted multi-fixture you show, that is kind of hokey (insert Houzzers saying trophy rooms are hokey to begin with). With all the rods/extensions and varying mounting heights of the boxes they will mess up the intent of the vault and it's openess. If you are under the gun, have the electrician determine the circuits and run homeruns, and come back when you have a real lighting plan, even if you have to pay extra for their time.