I've tiled a few ceilings in my day. Personally I don't like the look of tiled ceilings where the ceiling simply transitions from tile to drywall. I feel they look best when the tile is captured by a transom or header over the shower entry. Tiling a ceiling isn't terribly difficult. It helps to have staging so you're not continually going up and down a ladder. Even if the staging simply a few 2-bys set across a few drywall buckets with a piece of plywood over them, it helps. If you're working off a ladder, then a helper would be...helpful. If tiling a ceiling, I'll have backer board up on the ceiling instead of drywall. I burn a veneer of thinset on to the cement board. Then burn thinset on to the back of the tile. Then comb thinset on the back of the tile. If the tile is large, I'll sometimes do a ridge of thinset around the perimeter of the tile. Then when you set the tile in place and push it up on the ceiling, the thinset compresses and some describe it as "suction" holding the tile in place. For typical tile, I've never had a need for bracing or support to hold the tile up. A quality thinset will do the trick nicely. While it depends on the size of the ceiling, I usually use whatever thinset I used on the rest of the shower. If I was hanging a 3/4" thick natural stone tile, then I'd shift gears to a non-sag or some other mortar. But for "regular tile" a modified thinset will do the job fine. You can buy highly modified in a bag, or unmodified and ad liquid admix to it for better tack. If for whatever reason I think the tile might creep, I'll use blue tape across the grout line to tape one tile to another, to bridge grout lines to prevent lateral tile creep. Just a precaution. I do know a few that advocate using a "tie-together" system like TLS. But TLS, when it registers one tile to another, can pull a tile away from the ceiling. That's what you DON'T want to do, break the suction between the tile and the ceiling. Grouting can be more difficult than tiling. It's that thing called "gravity" that tends to get in the way at times. I simply use less grout on the float at a time, so there is more repetition of motion in terms of loading the float and applying it to the grout lines. You simply do less at a time. Same with cleaning. If you use a large tile on the ceiling like the 12x24s, they can work...the issue is pressing them into place over your head to compress the thinset ring (if you did the perimeter of thinset around the tile) or the thinset ridges (if you used the notched edge of the trowel to simply comb out the thinset). The larger the tile, the more force needed per tile. 1) will it be a problem to not tile the ceiling? If you have proper ventilation, "regular" materials can work fine. Add to that today's better materials; paperless drywall, for example, and non-tiled ceilings can work well. A fan on a timer, even better. 2) If I tile the ceiling is there a recommended size? Tile size isn't an issue, but the physicality of installing larger tile can be. With more surface area per inch of perimeter, large tiles, while they my seem more difficult to install, can be easier to install and there is less grouting. So overall, larger tiles are easier. 3) If I don't tile the ceiling, what do I use for the ceiling material? I'll usually use a version of moisture or mold resistant drywall for bathroom walls and ceilings. 4) We will be using a heating lamp and fan, all in one type,exhaust fan. Should I install another fan in the shower or just install the fan/heating lamp fixture just outside the shower (which I would prefer because of the smaller size of the room)? These days it's all about moisture control, and controlling it as best as you can right at the source. For non-steam showers. I prefer a fan inside the shower. If a fan is desired outside the shower and the bathroom is small, I'll install a fan with two ventilation grills, one in the bathroom and one in the shower. If the shower does not have a transom over the door, ie, the shower is somewhat open to the bathroom, then a single fan outside the shower can work. But I prefer to design showers so they contain moisture within that space, and that's why I prefer a fan within the shower. It can also depend on the users. Long, hot showers? Might be best to have a fan in the shower. Get in, get out? A single fan outside might be okay. 5) Can you paint over Hydroban? I never have, It'd be best to call Laticrete tech support and ask them directly. Or they night mention it in the HydroBan literature.

Birchpoint - Larger tile was from; http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/calacatta-porcelain-tile-12in-x-24in.html This web picture looks a lot more beige than my tiles which are more white. You can order a sample. The Floor tile is from Arizona tile: http://www.arizonatile.com/Assets/ProductImages/M/Misingi_Suber_464x464.jpg I think the combination of the taupe floor tile and the porcelain marble tile is the most stunning part of the bathroom. Though some might argue that we should have used mosaic in the bottom of the shower floor but I chose "form over function" for this. With the grab bars which I definitely use because I don't have good balance, I haven't fallen. There is a spray you can purchase on Amazon for tile or other possibly slippery surfaces that can be used if you want to be sure it is less slippery. My tile guy recommended it if i needed more traction. Maybe when I get a bit older, I will apply it for more safety. The size of the shower is one of the best parts of the remodel. 5ft X 5ft is the official size that allows one to say their shower fits the ADA standard. We didn't size ours for that reason but it turns out, it really is the perfect size for us. I love how when you are showering, all sides can be reached without moving too far yet there is still a nice feeling of spaciousness. Some of the pictures I posted in another thread may give you a better idea of the bathroom. Here Also, as I have mentioned in several other threads on GW, not having a shower door has turned out to be so wonderful and enhances the shower experience greatly. We had our contractor build the walls so we could add a shower door if we decided we wanted one but as it turns out, that is the VERY LAST THING we would ever want. To anyone who is in doubt, I say "try it, you will probably like it". Here is a link that might be useful: Hall bath

Hi Cheri, You aren't nuts, but this will take some care. Ocean and river stones can have deposits which will inhibit the mortar's bond. The most obvious culprit with ocean stones is sea salt and organic matter, but there are oils and waxes that also get into the mix, sadly enough. ALL of your pebbles will need to be washed aggressively!! I'd use a solution of Tri-sodium Phopsphate (hardware-grade TSP) in a wheelbarrow and REALLY stir those rocks up. Use a garden hoe or some other long-handled "mixer" to churn the stones so that they rub against each other. Not only is the TSP working to remove "bases" from the surface and pores of the stones, but the abrasions of all the stones against each other will expose fresh surface area too. Be rough! :^) With all of that done, then rinse the stones very very well and then let them dry. If they dry chalky, churn them again in just plain water until the TSP is completely washed off. Then you can start setting them. Remember that you should wear protective clothing and equipment when working with TSP. It's caustic and will irritate your skin and can damage your eyes! Gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection are a must! Best of luck, Shaughnn

Cinar interiors, inc.-roarah? we laid a 4 ft straight edge and it's not perfectly flat against the tile. I'm sure that something to do w/all of this. The gap was definitely wider at the top than at the bottom. I don't know what it ideal but I have learned much going through this process. Walls are imperfect, framing can be imperfect, rounded corners can complicate things. Hopefully the glass door will/can be installed well!