"It does sound like the moisture from the drywall mud floated up there and condensed on some cold roof sheathing. There is a huge amount of water in that stuff." If this is the moisture source (and leaks are not normally over a large area) then the problem will be 'fixed' as soon as you close everything up and the nmud finishes drying. Pre-mixed mud hardens by simply drying out (and shrinking as the water evaporates). Setting compound (mixed from powder) hardens by chemical reaction, and then the much smaller amount of water used to mix it up evaporates. If mixed with minimum water there is very little shrinkage (even in thick applications over an inch in thickness).

I removed tank again and looked closer. The bolt hole on one one side became slightly oblonged with a small liip on one end.I also removed the flapper assy and inspected that also . looked ok on mounting surface. I added clear siicone on gaskets that mounted to bottome of tank for flapper assy and bolt gaskets. let sit to dry and no ore leaks !!! thanks for your help.I should have looked closer when replacing parts but didnt think the bolt holes would would make a difference but they do !!

If there are two flue tiles sticking out of the chimney top, I can't think of any way the chimney would not have two fully lined flues. There would be no way to support tiles just at the top and you would not have two separarte flues to accomodate the furnace and fireplace. What kind of condition the flue tiles are in is another question entirely. 6" under the shingles is not really very much at all, so water could indeed be running under and back toward the chimney, especially since the roof itself is "swayed". A second factor is the age of the roof. Unless they are very heavy duty, 22 years is about the life expectancy of asphalt shingles. You really have two different if related issues: the condition of the roof itself and the condition of the chimney. Some chimney sweeps have video cameras they can lower down the chimney to check the interior. A roofing company can inspect the total roof. Potential expenses for sure, but continuing to try and deal unsuccessfully with the leakage is not a great option either.

Jelly, I went and looked at the video, and the photos at post #2. The white plastic pan that is shown in the video is where it needs to drain to, and yes, you need to get water to flow into it. I have a Whirlpool with a bottom freezer, and at the very back. after you take off all the shrouds and baskets, it looks just like the photos in # 2. When you look at the right most photo, you see a small ledge, which is labeled drip pan ( though it in not the plastic pan that is at the very bottom of the fridge in the video) and I will call it a drip channel and a spot labelled drain hole. That whole ledge area is probably covered in ice, and ice is also on the area labelled evaporator . What happened originally was that the rubber tube got clogged, water fell into the drip channel, but could not exit the drip hole, and froze. It then continued to freeze onto the evaporator. Right now, the ice on the evaporator is melting, the water is dripping onto the drip channel, and there is still ice in the drip channel, so it is still overflowing into the freezer. You can just leave if for a day and be pretty confident it will be done, though you wouldn't want to do that with wood or laminate floors, because it could be a lot of water, or you can try using the hot pan in the freezer, and use a hair dryer from the rear of the fridge pointing all along where you attached the rubber tube. You won't see the ice in the drip channel, because it is below the top of the channel. You may not see the ice on the evaporator, because it may well be hidden by the vents.