marti8a I set my three varieties of onion transplants out (in containers) on March 7. They had general DTMs of 100 and 110 days, but they didn't last quite that long! I have begun harvesting them from the containers where they all have fallen over, even though some of the tops are still green. I think you can just leave them there longer than that but need to pull them when the neck right next to the bulb is still solid to feel but above that, it's soft. Below is a picture of about half the onions I planted, curing out on the deck under an overhang. They still have a way to go for the leaves to become all brown. And they sure have lots of roots! I also plan to spread them out more today after I find something else to set them on under the overhang so the air can reach all of them. I'm leaving the others (yellow onions) in the soil for now since not all of them have fallen over and the tops haven't started browning. They're much larger than these, most double this size.

Just pinch off and deadhead the flower. Cutting further down the cane is not required. Then empower yourself and get a good beginners book on growing roses such as 'Roses for Dummies'. There are better books, but that will at least cover the basics. Google can also be your friend. This post was edited by the_morden_man on Tue, Jun 25, 13 at 21:37

Hi folks! Since you're on the east coast, another vendor that I have used and gotten very respectable trees is McKenzie Farms. This is my second year with citrus and I decided to buy some from here due to positive reviews on the citrus growers f o r u m. Shipping was very reasonable, well packaged and the trees were very nice. I got a 1 Gallon Meyer Lemon, Eureka Lemon, Key Lime, Kaffir Lime and a 3 gallon Moro. The 1G trees were about 12" tall. The 3G Moro was fantastic, about 4-5 feet tall and still had 4 small green oranges on it. The 1G trees were $20 and the 3G was $40. I repotted all into a 511 mix. I had used CHC+Peat last year, but decided that it dried out too fast inside over winter. I'll post a picture when I get home. Here is a link that might be useful: McKenzie Farms

It's not important what it says on the outside of the bag - what's important is what's IN the bag; and all "cactus mixes" are not created equal. Cactus mix 'A' may be entirely appropriate for a particular herb, while cactus mix 'B' may be entirely inappropriate for the same plant. There is no way to make a determination based on what label the packager put on the bag. If anything, I'd be concerned that some cactus mixes hold TOO MUCH water to be appropriate for either cacti or herbs; so Rhizo's hedging was entirely appropriate and essentially what I'd have said. Neither of us are willing to accept what it says on a bag of soil at face value unless we know the soil. Ideally, you want a soil that holds good amounts of moisture, but doesn't support perched water. Perched water is the water that occupies the soggy layer of soil at the bottom of the pot that occurs as a result of using MOST commercially prepared potting soils; so I would say that from the plant's perspective, what most of you consider to be ordinary, good-quality potting mix is too water retentive to offer your plant to grow at even close to its potential. I tend to look at things from the plant's perspective; and to a plant, there really isn't such a thing as draining too fast. There is a balance to be reached when it comes to watering frequency, but you can almost predict an increase in potential growth and vitality as the need to water increases. IOW, soils that need more frequent watering can generally be counted on to significantly increase the potential for growth and vitality, while at the same time increasing the growers margin for error when it comes to watering and fertilizing. Let me know if you'd like to know more. Al