It's not the cold that is killing your plants. It is dehydration. The plants are literally becoming freeze dried. VFT's, Sarrs, etc. can withstand freezing temperatures. Purpurea can be found way up north in Canada. However, when you grow these plants in pots you are not shielding the soil and root system from freezing temps as thier natural habitat does. As a result, during extended periods of below freezing temps, the entire pot freezes solid which makes the water unable to be absorbed by the roots. These plants are dormant, but they still absorb water as water escapes through thier leaves. I have many sarrs, vfts, drosera filliformis and live in Zone 5 (Indiana). What I typically do is bring my plants in my unheated insulated garage. It is typically 10-15 degrees warmer in there than outside during the winter. I only bring my plants out during days that it is above 30. What I would suggest is trying to find some way to keep the plants above freezing (30s-40s). If you do not have access to an unheated garage or attic (next to a sunlit window if possible) then another method would be to but the plants in a large container and put mulch over them. Pine bark, leaves, pine needles or something to that effect. This will shield the plants from arctic blasts and keep moisture from escaping too quickly. Check every week or so to insure the soil is still moist. Hope this helps... Some other good resources on the web for dormancy are www.cobraplant.com and www.cpukforum.com

I would wait to do any repotting until the spring or early summer just to be safe. The warmer temperatures will make for much better conditions for new root and plant growth. I do grow my Hoya DS-70 in a clay pot and it does just fine but it is watered almost every day, still clay is best used for species that like to dry out vs the moisture lovers. Having temperature drops at night are good for plants, many bloom in response to these types of conditions. The temperatures you mentioned are not ideal but they are not low enough to cause problems. If you are concerned about fertilizing then I would suggest waiting for the most favorable conditions. On a nice sunny day water the plants and then apply your fertilizer solution. This is the best approach when it comes to watering any plant that is sensitive to water during the winter. Mike

Some folks do that and there are several threads in the backposts where it's discussed, if you want to do a search at the bottom of the page: I'm too lazy this AM to do it. LOL But take more that one cutting and be sure they've taken before discarding the plant it came from. And yes, it will take successive cuttings to get the timing right so that you have a seedling at the right age to plant outside. Most folks I know don't clone plants b/c they usually want to plant different ones each year. And yes, under grow lights the plants will survive over the winter. But don't expect fruits if you let them get to that stage. Take cuttings earlier than that. Whether it's cost effective for you to do so depends on how much importance you place on having the same variety, meaning, is it a rare one, or a common one that you could raise from seed at the same time you raise all your other seed grown ones. Ray has some that he really wants to clone b'c he started out with a hybrid, I think it was Purple Haze. Carolyn

the base question is... can you detect any difference from them.. in whatever you use them for ... if so ... buy new seed... if not.. and you want the challenge.. plant them ... it will all end up basil ... and you might come up with something that tingles your toes.. of course.. you must relish it.. because odds are.. you will never duplicate it again ... unless you can root cuttings and over winter them to have them the next year ... it all gets so complicated .... lol ken