First: They have not found a cure for common cold/flu. So do not expect those pesticide fungicides eradicate garden plant ills. Second: To upload pictures you have to go to some image deposit sites. I work with photobucketdotcom.It is free membership. You upload pictures from your computer over there in you album. Then get an "HTML" link of it (paste it to a blank page on say word pad, label it for yourself..) Come here write a post and embed the "html" code(s) into your text. Here I just did for an example: When review your post, the image(s) should appear there even before submitting. ...Then go ahead and submit your message.

1) NB is winter hardy in Zone 6 so in theory, you do not need to protect it as long as you maintain 3-4" of mulch and water every two weeks or so during dry winters while the ground does not freeze. But if you live near Zone 5, there may be some times when a really cold winter could affect bloomage; winter protection would ensure that the really cold winter does not affect the flower buds. 2) When hydrangeas develop a fungal disease, it would be wise to spray according to the label instructions this year and next at the least. Some spores will likely escape because they are residing on stems, rocks, the mulch or other plants. The spores can remain alive for years so drench the shrubs well (top and bottom of leaves). Dispose of plant debris in the trash and make sure the environment is not conducive to re-development of rust. When the plants go dormant in the fall, dispose the leaves and blooms in the trash. 3) Hard to tell but it is possible since we cannot "see" if spores reside in the cuttings before you cut them. 4) Milk can be useful against powdery mildew infestations but I have not heard of it used against rust. A 1 part (or two parts) milk, 9 parts (or 8 parts) water solution can be sprayed to the top and bottom of the leaves weekly until the problem goes away.

Powdery Mildew appears as a whiteish dust on the leafs surface and it can be wiped off. Those leaves are demonstrating Chlorosis, yellowing, for some reason and that is mostly the result of a nutrient imbalance. Some may tell you this is the result of a Nitrogen or Iron deficiency which might possibly be or it might be because of a wrong soil pH that is preventing proper utilization of some nutrtient or it may be that there is too much of something that keeps the plant from properly utilizing some other nutrient. Excess Phosphorus in the soil can keep a plant from utilizing Zinc, Iron, and Copper while excess Potash can inhibit utilization of Nitrogen. Excess Magnesium can inhibit utilization og Calcium and vice versa, and both are needed for a plant to produce Chlorofil which is what makes leaves green. What is your soils pH? What is the balance of Ca to MG? How much organic matter is in that soil? How well does that soil retain moisture? How well does that soil drain? What kind of life is in that soil?

Thanks, Peter and Ig. The PM is already spreading to the acorn and butternut. I soaker hose long-watered yesterday and I pulled the gray, dead PM leaves off and put them into the trash bin. Someone I met suggested fish emulsion feed. Of course, I cannot now locate that small green bottle of stinky liquid. The soil drains well. Weedy area and some Heritage raspberries or maybe they are wild blackberries are sprouting up here and there. It's a constant challenge. I'm tempted to experiment on the two front zucchini plants: immunox on one and "copper spray" on another. (What sort of copper spray? Any drawbacks?). The butternut squash up hill at my neighbor's isn't particularly full, but doesn't have any noticeable PW either. It rained last night and this morning, so that should help. With no rain or moisture, how could any Epsoma or 10-10-10 break down to get to the plants? Question: if overhead watering contributes to Powdery Mildew, PM, then what about rainfall? Is rainfall any different than overhead watering (assuming minimal back spash of soil onto leaves)?