I don’t know what everyone else is doing,
6 years ago
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I'm growing lavender and don't know what I'm doing
Comments (13)The roots go a lot further down than an inch, and it doesn't look like that pop bottle has any drainage holes. I still suspect they are too wet most of the time, and probably are not getting enough sun as another poster noted. Lavender is originally from the Mediterranean region, along the coast. Yes, they manage to grow a lot of lavender in England - it is still a Mediterranean plant, however, that grows best in dry, chalky, poor soils. I think the Brits just tend to be better gardeners on average than the average 'merican, LOL! Plus they have lots of chalky coastline ... think the White Cliffs of Dover ... Lavender does NOT do well in soil that is moist all the time. If they are doing "better" since you started daily watering, I shudder to think how they were doing before, because those plants are not doing anything like "well", especially given that you started those plants way back in the spring. Here's a picture of a potted lavender that is doing well: Potted lavender advice Lavender needs 8 hours of sun a day, at least. Full sun in the garden is what they are talking about there. I don't think your plants are getting near that on your balcony. It will only be worse sitting near the window there in your kitchen (or where ever you plan to put them over winter). I understand that you are in an apartment and have VERY limited access to light and space for growing plants. Lavender is a very challenging plant (so is rosemary) for growing indoors. I've never had any luck growing either plant indoors myself. I'm not saying it can't be done; but it is a challenge. Your setup is not adequate to the task at this time. You're not getting nearly enough light; the soil mix in your pop bottles looks too heavy (lavender does better in a soil-less mix, in fact I think potted lavender may be a prime candidate for some version of Al's gritty mix). There are no drainage holes that I can see in that pop bottle and you are overwatering if the soil is never allowed to dry out. Lavender also like an alkaline soil. Adding some lime could help. ESPECIALLY if there is any peat moss at all in your soil mix, or if you are using pine fines as mulch or a soil amendment. So - alkaline soil, allow the soil to dry between waterings - not totally since these are first year plants but it shouldn't be wet or even damp all the time; and it loves the heat but dislikes humidity (hence it does pretty durn well in our dry near-desert conditions in N. Nevada). However at this point in time I hold out little hope for the survival of your plants over the winter, given their stunted condition now. I'm not trying to be discouraging; go ahead and try, you've come this far with them. But you need to repot them in a soil-less mix more suited to the plant and be prepared to supply extra heat and light, else they will not survive. Here is a discussion and fairly clear description of how to make Al's gritty mix. Personally I have found ALL the ingredients difficult to impossible to find. Turface, in particular, I have never been able to lay hands on - and though it is the virtually same stuff as certain types of cat litter or adsorbent, it isn't ALWAYS the same stuff. For instance, Napa Floor Dry has been touted as a replacement - but there are TWO KINDS and only one of them is suitable for this purpose. And I'm too tired to go dig up the links that tell you which is which. Also, having to screen and discard large portions of your ingredient isn't exactly lending itself to being affordable - let alone easy. That said - for this particular instance, I think gritty mix is your best bet - if you can only find the ingredients and get them properly screened and mixed....See Moredon't know a thing about grout - how do I know what to buy?
Comments (2)Okay. Sounds like you've been getting alot of misinformation and half truths. First, there's no such thing as a grout with the sealer built in. Many installers will try and tell you that about modified grouts which include latex polymers in the grouts, but that's bigtime false. The other, which is more of a half truth is concerning epoxies. Although there's no sealer built right in, sealer can not be used on epoxy grout, either, because it's actually a plastic, and as such, won't allow sealers to penetrate into the grout. However, it also doesn't NEED to be sealed being that by itself, it won't allow alot of the staining that normally occurs (although it also can't be said that it's stainproof-- that's also a mis-statement). Now, Many of your questions can be answered if you go to the top of the bathrooms forum list and click on the "gallery" link. I have a thread over there entitled Tile FAQ's. In there, I go into alot of detail concerning grouts and the choice thereof. One of the things I stress is my opinion that you're better off choosing medium to dark colors in high traffic areas, rather than depending on grout sealers, because the BEST that they'll do is delay the inevitable. With the medium to dark colors, you won't see traffic patterns, staining, or aging of the grout NEARLY as much. This also goes for epoxy grouts, with respect to choosing colors. One other thing I say in that thread, and this WOULD pertain to you-- For the most part, it's my opinion that the use of epoxy grouts in residential installations, although everything people say they are, are very high priced overkill. There are only two times where I feel the use of epoxy grout is justified. One is if you're doing a tile countertop, and the other is if you have pets-- especially multiple pets, who might tend to have "accidents" every once in a while. Hopefully, I haven't confused you even further. If after reading this as well as the FAQ, you still have questions, don't hesitate to ask. :-) Matter of fact, I think your questions' going to be added to it, concerning the "grouts with sealer built in"!...See Moreemagineer, I don't know how else to answer you
Comments (2)The mixture can be used at any temp, environment will only change the amount of drying time. It is primarily vinegar. Tis' the steel that causes aging. The more you use the more it will age, plus the amount of steel wool or nails, anything that rusts. You will see a change fairly quick. Plus no paint smells, just vinegar and this sets the aging. The nails cause the aging. Will be gray/natural as if in the elements forever. Of importance though, you can't go back. Also, getting it on anything else, even fabric, will never come out. Once it is aged will stay that way. You can paint over it though. Just slap the mixture on with a brush, like a wash. Be sure to test it on a similar wood. Dark woods like majogany really turn dark, but light ones look gray,aged. I liked the idea of having a sign over the the door to finish off my shed. It was the look that appealed to me. Have an old one to do this with. You have done a lot of work and love it all. Not sure about the email, I'll send one again and you can reply to see if it works....See MoreOT, but I don't know where else to post it. Houzz ID & GW ID
Comments (3)We can generally help combine the two accounts into one, though you will have to decide which username you would like to use. Shoot us a note at support.houzz.com if you still need help!...See More- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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