Janesylvia, I have a bathroom with a corner shower unit that (in a small space), and when installed, I opted for a door that swung both ways. This was done 5 years ago, and it turns out that the door leaks through the vertical gap, although not a ton. When I recently remodeled my master bath, I had the glass installer (a different company from the other bathroom), install a vertical strip on my corner shower unit, making the door open only out. This seal has stopped all leakage of water. In my limited eperience, it seems the vertical gasket or seal is much more likely to keep your shower from leaking. It was a little frustrating to always have a towel over the bathroom rug to absorb leaking water from the shower. (in addition to concerns over continual dampness on the floor)

You'll find that any method used, which mitigates the potential of damage to the dining room wall, will be expensive, may be the deciding factor and you'll be hard pressed to find a contractor who can legitimately say there will be no damage to the dining room side. This is the method that I have employed on several occasions, and keep in mind that these are full 2" x 4" stud walls. I used a 2x4 pocket door jamb amended to fit. The plaster and lath is carefully removed about 10" up from the floor. Metal brackets are attached to the studs at the bottom plate to add additional vibration damping, and the plaster and lathing removal is then completed. Metal brackets are added at the top plates. The nails are cut and the diagonal bracing is carefully removed. With the depth of cut set at 2-7/8" I use a beam saw to cut the studs for the top of the header height.(The wall may not be "load bering" but it's still weight loaded). Using a 4" grinder with a masonry blade, the plaster which has penetrated the lath is removed adjacent to the studs to allow clear passage of the table of a cordless skill saw to pass unobstructed. The DEWALT that I use is 1-1/8" table edge to blade. The studs affected are then ripped from the header cut to the bottom. The metal brackets are removed, individually, and using a sawzall blade with least kerf, the cut is completed. This DOES NOT affect the lath attachment on the opposing side. The nails attaching the bottom plate to the floor joists are removed and the bottom plate is attached in the 1-1/8" area that will remain. The bottom plate is cut and removed and depending upon the height of your existing door, filler is added or additional floor sheeting removed for the placement of the new jamb. If it's your decision to retain the aesthetics of a cased opening, the jamb will need to be amended to fit. The header and framing is set and the amended jamb is installed. With the jamb set, square and aligned, pre-drill the horizontal 1x slats in the jamb and attach to the dining room studs, further stabilizing them. A flat 2x4 is added to the side of the top plates on the kitchen side. A 2x4 is ripped to create a 5-1/2" wall thickness for the bottom plate and nailed in place. 2x6's are then ripped, installed and they are similarly attached to the jamb. The rock lath secured with screws and the gypsum plaster applied.

We used to have our hampers in the bedroom, but they take up a lot of space in our bedroom's reach in closet (we don't have a walk in and our room isn't huge). Since we have the space in the hallway right outside of our bedroom, I thought we could expand our linen closet and add a laundry section like I had seen in photos online. Because it isn't in a laundry room, I didn't want to leave it open to the hallway and I also didn't like the idea of laundry in with my clean linens, so I thought putting up a wall between them would make sense. Attached is my poor drawing and two ideas I saw online.

Agreed with latest comment- lay out where your sofa/accent chairs will go and think about best traffic flow for the door opening. I would think a slider opening left to right would be most convenient for kids and guests so they‘re not tracking though the middle of the living room. Also consider where the view will be when the doors are fully open. We have a similar layout and wish the doors were pocket-like or accordion style so we don’t have any frame blocking the view out our. Since you dont have a lot of wall space on either side, maybe you could do accordion style. Highly recommend since it makes indoor-outdoor space feel SO much bigger - great for parties with the deck space you have! Also, we took the screens off. Makes it feel twice as open!