Old metal trim on vinyl bathtub surround
CB
4 years ago
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kudzu9
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCB
4 years agoRelated Discussions
What trim should I use between tile floor and tub surround?
Comments (1)Most go "au natural". :-) Just the caulked joint....See MoreMetal Trim? 12x12' on tub surround? Pics Pls!
Comments (6)Not 12x12, but we used 16 x 16 on the shower surround in the master bath, same that we used on the floors. No choice really, there was no bullnose tile option with a lip to cover the backer board. Our installer could field bullnose the tile edge as he did for the shower/bath ledge, but at the edge he would have had to cut thin inch-wide pieces. We didn't want all those additional grout lines. Tub surround and sink backsplash done with a glass mosaic tile also with metal edging. A few pics attached. Here is a link that might be useful: Master bath pics...See MoreLarge gap between tub surround and tub - Caulk? tape? help??
Comments (8)Hm, I had been wondering if you'd taken the past surround *down* or just put the new surround over it. If you've *taken it down* and you didn't see any rot behind the sheetrock when you removed it, then I'd venture to say that you're safe. There was *no* black or otherwise unpleasant anything where the low point was? Checking downstairs will eliminate the other one possibility, which would be that the rot went straight down and didn't communicate upwards at all into anything you removed. Which would be odd, but I guess possible. Maybe you just had *really good* sealing. We don't....See MoreConfused about prepping tub surround for tile
Comments (3)My first step would be to recommend you go to the manufacturer's website and get the specific framing/attachment instructions for your tub. Your tub might need a horizontal 2x4 ledger just under the 60" flange for support, and the flange itself may or may not be screwed into the wall studs. That will dictate how close the flange needs or does not need to be to the framing. As to the flange detail, you'll first cover the studs with a barrier, usually 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. Staple this to the studs and let it lap over the flange of the tub. You'll want the face of the durock to at least be flush to the face of the flange. Having the cement board slightly proud of the face of the flange is okay, too. If the cement board will not satisfy this as things are now, then use thin 1/2" furring strips nailed off on the faces of each stud to bring the framing closer to the flange. If furring, your poly would go over the furring strips. The cement board can be held just above the tub's flange. That way your bottom course of tile will cover the flange and stop about a grout width off of the tub. That tile/tub gap will later be caulked. Ignore the reference to "kerdi" in the following drawings. The two following sketches show tub sidewall details both with and without furring strips. In your case, you'd want the poly between the cement board and the framing....See MoreCB
4 years agokudzu9
4 years agoCB
4 years agokudzu9
4 years agoCB
4 years agoUser
4 years agocat_ky
4 years agoCB
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agosambah006
3 years ago
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