This also brings back a flashback of my own situation. I had been landscaping my backyard over the years, but in pieces and not as a whole landscape. This resulted in several disparate forms, a gazebo on a berm (circular), lawn (rectangle), and playset on bermed area (another rectangle). It wasn't until I saw a little side-bar snippet and drawing in Fine Gardening (don't remember the issue) that referenced "recieving forms". I posted here awhile back my excitement about this (see link to thread below). A recieving form is basically relating shapes to one another, be they bed shaped, lawn shapes or berm shapes so that the peices look that they "go" together, which unifies an area over a stretch of negative space. For example looking from space at the earth, it's easy to see how S. America (brazilian coast) can fit into the west coast of Africa. This type of re-structuring your lawn shape and bed shapes will help to bring together all of the areas of your backyard into pleasant spot. Also consider adding some berms for changes in elevation (assuming drainage won't be adversely impacted)to add some interest and aid in the recieving form effect. Here is a link that might be useful: Recieving forms

Be aware that while the Grewia can be kept fairly narrow if trained as an espalier, if not so trained it will grow as a wide bush. I'd suggest starting off with espalier trained 5 or 15 gallon size from the nursery. This shrub may also drop some foliage in your freezes, but is generally safe to use as an evergreen hedge if you seldom drop below 27ðF or so. Your much warmer winter days may give you better evergreen character in winter, they can tend to thin out a bit in colder winters here in northern California. As to amending your soil, it depends on what you have to start with. First thing is to dig any planting pit at least 2 to 3 times wider than your container size, but no deeper, and flood test to see that water drains fully within a couple of hours. I generally do amend the backfill 50% with aged compost or similar, but current horticultural research says this is unnecessary, and a surface application of compost as mulch is more beneficial, repeated once or twice a year. I'd suggest you get a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book as a good general reference for your gardening and plant questions, it should answer most any gardening question you might have.

Thanks, lehua. Here are my responses: I'll try to have photos posted tonight. I am not the original owner. I don't know of any regrading of the lot. I think I am at a downslope from A, B, C houses, but my neighbor to the right (D) is about the same. A, B, C are older homes. Myself and D are a newer row of homes (more homes to the right; about 6) that were built in 2000 or so. I would estimate that the ABC homes were built in the 50s. Parking lot is about the same level as my yard. The parking lot is for a fire station next to us. It may be a while to dig that 18" hole! I am in the DC suburbs. Right now, all the moist soil/water has frozen so it may not be a good time of the year to do a percolation test. Before this current period of sustained freeze, we had a lot of rain for December (about 7 inches and we average around 3 for Dec.). I did core aerate/reseed the yard this past spring, which I thought could breakdown the clay soil & absorb more rainwater. However, this won't work in December where we have short days and no warming/evaporation of the water. the lawn is probably less thirsty in December. This may or not matter, but one of the original owners of one of the our generation homes next to us told me that the land where they built our homes used to be a city park. The park was next to the firestation. Also, when I dug out the long french drain, I kept getting my shovel jammed with many rocks. Some as big as fists.

I think the easiest way to maintain a large area is to create a woodland environment. Separate the 'woodland' from the 'yard' perhaps with the wall in the picture, or by some sort of border like logs or simply the edge of the lawn, and don't worry too much about maintaining the woods. I am sure you've seen yards that border the woods, and some of them look perfectly manicured despite the fact that nothing is done to maintain the woods. So, it is partly attitude ('those are the woods, this is the yard') and partly a good border between the two that makes your life easier. I would start by by mulching and planting large clumps of a few types of shrubs or small trees. Pick out perhaps three to five types of native woodland shrubs. Get perhaps three to five plants of each type. Plant each type of plant in an informal clump. The clumps should be arranged to look nice, frame in your yard and woodland path, and to not interfere with each other too much (give them the room they need). In general, put taller ones toward the back, smaller ones in front. Mulch the whole area. You can buy shredded bark or find a local tree trimmer or the municipality who shreds branches (power company crews, road maintenance crews etc.) and sometimes get the chips for free. i would use the most natural-looking mulch you can find, so that the woods look as woodsy as possible. in the future, simply leave the leaves that fall. You should probably mulch again in future years to help build ip the soil and supress weeds. I would probably remove a lot of the small plants that are there now. I see a yellow-green groundcover that is probably a sedum, some weeds, I think, and some grass. none of these really fit in a natural woodland, so I wouldn't keep them. As the shrubs grow, the spaces in between you can plant with wildflowers, ferns, etc. Once you get the shrubs growing and a good mulch on the soil, you can take your time (years, if you want) planting wildflowers, and I think you'll enjoy it. I would start with several Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) scattered through the woods. I would plant clumps of Cranberry viburnum (tall, put it near the back), American Holly (Also tall), Maybe Gray Dogwood in the sunnier parts of the front, Blueberries (highbush type- most of the blueberries grown for fruit are 'highbush' blueberries that will get four or five feet tall, at least), and perhaps Red chokeberry, or maybe Inkberry holly, which is evergreen. I would make each clump something like 10 ft by ten feet, but an irregular shape. This will fill a lot of space, you'll like the look of the shrubs, and there will be no maintenance - you can simply let them grow once they are planted and watered for the first few months. I think evergreen groundcovers are a pain - weeds often grow through them, it is hard to get leaves out of them, and unless they grow really thick, the look like a poorly maintained planting. Woods, on the other hand, aren't supposed to be maintained and so look fine full of leaves and sticks. Just maintain a path through them and you are fine.