How to address load bearing wall with vaulted ceiling?
Kenny Adams
4 years ago
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RL Relocation LLC
4 years agoDavidR
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Load bearing wall - how do ya know??
Comments (5)If your ceiling joists span exterior wall to wall, perpindicular walls are not load bearing. If the joists are spliced and land on that wall,they are still not necessarilly bearing, but you dont want to interrupt the splice.If you have access to your attic, you can see if there is any roof bracing landing on that particular wall,or any structural element indicatiating a load bearing wall.If no access, as in mariposatraicionera(phew!)'s case, you will have to cut out an inspection hole in the area of the wall enough to get a look to see if their is bracing, or any other element landing on the wall making it load bearing. Properly supported bearings start from the foundation and travel on up. On a crawl space or basement,as ron stated,It starts at the footing or pier and is supported up through the floor,then posts or a wall, on up to the roof framing that is braced off of that. All supported down below at the foundation level. This is why trusses and engineered products such as i-joists have come in to play, because they span uninterrupted, making interior walls partitions rather than load bearing....See MoreWhat do you think of this idea for a load-bearing wall? Will it work?
Comments (9)katie- I am mostly responding to the concerns in your other thread here. First of all, I certainly emphasize with the strain of not being able to figure out how to make the layout work, or how to hire the people you need when budget is a concern. We have been *thinking of* doing our kitchen for seven years while we try to figure it out! In terms of your stress level, I would encourage you to think about whether it is the actual kitchen condition that is causing you stress, or it is the project that is causing you stress...in which case it might be best to sit back and try to make your kitchen workable so that you have a little breathing room. Trying to just get it done may end up costing more to get less of what you want. I assume you are waiting to replace your microwave because you want to buy a new one with the built in look...but we were able to pick up a used microwave for $25 on craigslist (which we have now used for 6 years...it is good we picked it up). A garbage disposal replacement is usual a DIY install...and the new disposal should be able to be installed in your new kitchen...my hubby (who is a chemistry professor but likes DIY) also has installed dishwashers if you know that appliances you want. That does not solve the open sofits and cealing, but it does make the kitchen more functional. I think pictures would help me visualize the spaces more, but I am going to be the odd man out and say that I think trying to recess your fridge into the dining room is going to eat up a lot of your budget, and I am not completely sure what you are going to gain. I think your concern is that your fridge is sticking too far into the highly trafficked space. Do you have any built in pieces that make the "living room" the living room, the dining room the dining room and the family room the family room? I think I would try to turn the dining room in the "living room" (or the family room kids hangout space with the door that closes!). Then you could put in a large island with sink running the long direction of the house (or leave your sink) , put your fridge between the french door and the low window with a pantry (or counterspace next to it) and leave the stove where it is. You could then put your dining table in the living room (but have bar seating on the island) and even set up a small seating area in your new dining room...our house is probably a very different style than yours, but our little couch at the end of our dining room is quite popular! (It's in an alcove, but you see our chandelier and built in china closet...it is very much part of the dining room...you might even be able to put in a built in bench under your low window). I have certainly found the staring over phenomenon quite difficult...especially because everyone does things differently. Our first quote came back "no structural engineer required," the second contractor wanted us to hire a structural engineer before he wrote the quote (although he did say he would most likely correctly guess what needed to be done), the architect we talked to would bring a structural engineer and start boring in the walls. The third contractor said he would open up the walls, and then have the engineer come make drawings if we wanted...he said that we could go either way but the permitting would be much easier with a stamped engineers drawing. Each contractor uses a different cabinet sales person that sells a different line of cabinets! Have you tried home depot or cliqstudios or something similar? I went to home depot and met with the designer...they gave me a ballpark figure but said I would have to pay $100 for a measure to get an actual design/quote, but the kitchen designer I met with was very helpful and gave me some good ideas. The $100 would be applied to the install...we need a gut to update knob and tube wire etc so we are not doing home depot install. I talked to cliqstudioes today and I am curious with what they come up with. I have also found it really helpful to look at real estate photos of similar houses to mine to see how they updated the kitchen...they are more consistent with the style, budget and layout constraints of my project than the Houzz photos are....See MoreConcerned about load bearing wall removal...
Comments (12)[I have edited this comment to correct for the OP's misuse of feet and inch symbols (' & "), etc.] The missing information is the span of the rafters (the dimension between the exterior bearing walls). That dimension and the required roof Live Load will determine the load on the new beam that supports the ridge. With that information anyone can size the beam from the manufacturer's chart. Assuming the big beam is the largest made (24" tall), the Boise Cascade Versa-Lam design chart says that for a 30 ft span, two 24" LVL's will support a Live Load of 544 lbs/lin. ft. using a deflection limit of L/360 to reduce the chance of cracking of ceiling drywall. if the total width of the space is 28 ft, the beam would be supporting 14 s.f. of roof for every foot of its length (the exterior walls support the other 14 ft). 544/14 = 39 lbs/s.f. which is the Live Load the roof can safely support. That's the required Live Load for parts of MA based on the worst case snow storm. I'm not a structural engineer so this information is for entertainment purposes only. But the above calculation only requires taking the Live Load capacity of the assumed beam size from a table and dividing it by the area of the roof supported by each foot of the big beam. I suspect the reason the beam is so large is to reduce the max. defection even beyond what is represented by the design tables (L/360). "L" is the beam span in inches. If you want to check your engineer's work without hiring another engineer, get a copy of what was submitted to the building department for the permit and post it here. Its probably a table like the one below....See Morehow do I know if a wall is load bearing?
Comments (5)You need to start with a Kitchen Designer and their contractor. They will bring in a structural engineer if needed. If you have a whole floor plan, it’s easy to armchair guess it from here. If it’s parallel to the main ridge, chances are good that it is load bearing. But even if it’s crosswise to the ridge, it could be load bearing. Joists change direction and bearing wall points 4x in my own simple house. It requires an expert in person to inspect all of everything. But removing that wall means replacing all of the floors that touch it. Figure $10-$20 a square foot for that work. Plus the cost of the electrical, HVAC and plumbing relocation. 2K-5K. Plus the cost of the wall removal itself, and any needed structural additions to make that happen. $5-15K. Removing the wall itself is not that expensive if you’re already planning all of the rest on the list. If you aren’t, then it’s going to be cost prohibitive to do....See MoreRL Relocation LLC
4 years agoRL Relocation LLC
4 years agoKenny Adams
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4 years agoRL Relocation LLC
4 years agoRL Relocation LLC
4 years agoKenny Adams
4 years agoRL Relocation LLC
4 years agoKenny Adams
4 years agoUser
4 years agoKathi Steele
4 years agoDavidR
4 years agopartim
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoSeabornman
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
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4 years agoRL Relocation LLC
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