I have succesfully trans planted several mature dogwood trees. They are different from most other trees to transplant. They have roots that spread out in different directions only about one to two inches underground. They are kind of easy to trans plant because you dont have to dig a big hole. What you do is locate they spreading roots and dig them up as far out as you can or want. About five feet is enough but the more the better. Also a big clump beneath the trunk would be a plus. To trans plant dig a hole for the clump beneath the trunk then trench in the spreading roots allowing them to keep their natural shape. No need to prune just keep watered the first couple of years. -Jim

Dan, it was ground layering. I dug a shallow trench for each sucker, gently bent them over and down into their respective holes, covered them with soil and placed a block of wood on top. They were watered there twice a week with the underground sprinkler system. It's a white dogwood tree, that's all I know. They're very common here in Georgia. I haven't dug them up yet as I didn't want to disturb them until it was time to transplant them. I just pulled on them to see if they had roots. Since they resisted, I'm assuming there are roots down there. When you say secondary roots, what exactly do you mean? Should I go dig them up to check out the root system and then recover them? Thanks for your help, Dan. I appreciate it. PS Last year I attempted air layering our Bloodgood Japanese Maple. I messed that up big time!

To amplify what Bullthistle wrote -- the new root growth should be no more than a foot, maybe less, so allowing that much, beyond where the old root ball was, in digging your new trench should be plenty - if you cut roots beyond that, the tree will regrow them. As long as the root ball holds together fairly well, there should be no problem - water the ground well in the day or two before digging, so it is wet but not muddy, if only because water weighs. Dig carefully around and then under the root ball - cutting any possible large roots. Try not to use the tree trunk as a pry/leverage point or handle, although some pulling/pushing at it can't be helped. Have rope and a tarp on hand, big enough to enclose the root ball, folded in half, and the top fold then folded again - lay it under the root ball on one side, then gently tilt the tree/root ball, and unfold it to the other side - wrap the root ball up so it is stable, and so you have "handles" to carry it by. Do as much moving and carrying by the root ball and not by the trunk as you can. Lift it out of the old hole and move it to the newly dug hole - which should be dug before the old one - save the dirt to fill in the old hole - and move it by the tarp and rope, not by the trunk. Replant it, water it well, don't add amendments to the backfill soil, make a lip/moat around the root ball to hold water so it soaks in. Mulch it, as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and put no mulch in the couple of inches next to the trunk. Continue watering as the top few inches of soil dries out - test by sticking a finger in to the second knuckle - if it is dry, water, if damp, wait and test again. You will need to water as necessary for the first 2 years, and in long dry spells in the third year - watering slowly, so the moisture gets to the bottom of the root ball and doesn't just run off - the equivalent of an inch of rain per week. As long as you keep the tree watered, it should be fine.

i dont know where you are coming up with some of this stuff ed ... 5 days is not sufficient to overcome.. shipping.. handling.. and planting stresses ... water plants when they need water .. insert finger and find out ... it is not a schedule thing ... this early in spring.. except for maybe the deep south.. the soil simply wont dry at root depth .. in a day or two ... how did you plant it.. what is your native soil .. did you amend the planting hole ... did you throw any fert in the hole??? see link and lets discuss any variable you might have messed up .. especially the part about proper watering .. you might be on the verge of loving this thing to death ... and to be sure.. fert is not a response to anything happening.. it is not a child.. and does not need to be fed ... just relax.. and give it a couple weeks or years.. to settle in ... you can always call the seller in a month or two.. and ask for a replacement in fall. should it not live ... ken ps: and no logan.. its not already dead ... https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub