Need Help Decorating My Flagstone Landing & Steps For My Rear Patio
christy25
4 years ago
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christy25
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Needing some info/help re: flagstone patio
Comments (2)Hi OkLady! I had a flagstone patio installed last spring, so might be able to help a little. The stones my landscaper used weren't as thick as what you're using, but I wouldn't think that would interfere with the process. The first thing you need to do is make sure the ground itself is level~you may have to bring in extra dirt. When this has been accomplished, compact the dirt with a compacting tool(or stomping),making sure it's well compacted. Next is the base of sand, again well compacted. If you do not level and compact, the stones will be uneven, and could possibly crack when stepped on, although the thinner the stone, the more chance of this happening. You may need to add/subtract sand as each stone varies in thickness, so put your level on each stone. When you've completed all these steps it's time for the cement, which I would recommend, rather than leaving in sand alone. I have a pathway coming off my patio which I left this way, and now I'm regretting it. Weeds, as well as shifting stones is a pain in the butt! I'll be getting it cemented!! I had my patio done in a semi-circle rather than a rectangle/square. Just something you may think about. Good luck!!! ;o)...See MoreSteps to Dry Laying a Flagstone Patio
Comments (11)Hi, I just wanted to let those interested know what tips I have learned in designing/building stone block edging around my entire house with an integral flagstone patio. I didn't want colored concrete blocks or rubber edging. I decided on Minnesota Kasota (limestone) natural stone (sized) blocks & 2" flagstone sheets. I contacted a quarry and showed him my design I made on graph paper. He walked around and measured the square footage required to make an entire 8" (two 4" blocks high) curved garden wall above ground, 4-5 feet from my house (except in back of house for the wrap around above grade flagstone patio) that I will backfill with blackdirt, weed barrier, and 3 " of decorative stone or mulch on top. Getting back to the purchase of my stone, I went direct through the quarry and avoided the middle man. I was able to get wholesale price with discount and reduced shipping charge. The order was for 19 tons of tumbled stone retaining blocks (sized 4" thick x 8" wide X radom lengths)and 2" flagstone. I needed about 6000 linear feet of block. I started out by buying 1.5" pvc pipe with couplers to make nice uniform curves/semicircles around my house held by stakes, then spray painted lines around for the block following the natural grade of my yard. (This method worked much better than garden hose). I rented a trencher with a 4" block blade and followed the line around three times so I had a nice trench 12" wide X 4" deep. I shoveled out the dirt and cut landscape fabric in the base. I then put in compactable gravel that I hand tamped 1" below the sod. I then started setting blocks in the trench and found just the right lengths/ slightly angled pieces I needed in the pallets of stone blocks. I then started on the second layer overlapping the joints by 5" inches or so. After the second layer was on, I removed the top layer and placed them on the ground facing up. I then brushed /swept the surfaces then applied block glue to each one and put them back. One area by my garage needed to go up 5 feet of block, so I just kept stacking/gluing blocks except I moved in each row 3/4" above previous row. Now for the raised flagstone patio. Now that I had a nice curved block wall 8" high, I filled/raked 4" high compactable gravel inside, rented a compacter and went over it 4 times. I strung lines across the top of the 8" high block and measured down the thickness of the flagstone (2"-3/8" for sand compaction) and layed long lengths of old 1.5" waterpipes on top the gravel surface and shimmed the pipe up with wood up to where the bottom surface of the flagstone should be. I then shoveled in course washed sand on top of the gravel/pipes and using a long 2x4 resting on top of the pipes to screed the sand flat. Now I started laying flagstone. The flagstone was in big square sheets, so I tipped them onto the ground, and if they didn't break, I took a splitting axe and hit in the middle several times until it broke into smaller pieces that were still at least 2-3 feet in size. Take on piece at a time and lay it onto the sand, then take each matching piece and lay adjacent leaving a 1.5" gap for motar or sand. Continue this process like a jigsaw puzzle. When you have to cut or trim, I used my kid's sidewalk chalk to mark lines/cuts. Then use a stone chisel / hand sledge hammer to chisel along line two times to score a line. I then rap one end of the stone with the butt of the sledge and it breaks clean along the line. If needed, chisel away any ragged edges. Work from one edge outwords using large pieces, then going back and filling in any smaller pieces. As you go along, try to keep edges of flagstone nearly flush. If you disturb the sand as you going along, use a cement trowel to smooth out. When your all done fitting, you can fill joints in one of two ways; buy SANDLOC and mix with sand and water, then put into joints, or what I am doing is mix 1/3 cement with sand and put in joints, smooth and wash away rest from flagstone using sponge. These are the only two things I would do for patios to make sure ants don't start drilling or plants/weeds don't start. Good Luck, Hope this helps....See MoreFlagstone On Sand Patio - step by step, pros and cons
Comments (1)Let it settle, or accept that you will be lifting and relaying the rocks to compensate. In Zone 9, where you have no freezing and frost heaving to deal with, there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with laying flagstone on plain dirt. I'm doing a path and patio now, and it's going right on top of the packed dirt, with dirt added or removed to level the stones. The only question is how rustic do you want? If you absolutely want a perfectly level, needs no adjustment ever patio, you need to do the expensive kind with rebar, concrete and all the rest. If you are willing to accept some differences in level, and to occasionally have to reset a stone that has drifted off-level ... laying it on dirt or sand is perfectly OK in your climate....See Morei hate the grout they used on my flagstone coping....please help!
Comments (25)I've tried for the past few weeks to get used to the awful brown mortar on my flagstone, but I just can't live with the mortar......I've had multiple contractors come out for various things unrelated to the pool and 3 have commented on the "odd", "strange" mortar color without me even mentioning my opinion of it. Very shocking but really why was I surprised. It's kinda nice to finally realize I'm NOT crazy for hating it. It toned down slightly as it cured, but it's still hideous. :( I'm going to start working on a resolution, going to be a pain but I just can't live with this color......infurates me that my PB picked this color for me without asking me what I'd like. I'm sharing all of this in hopes that it will save at least someone from getting slapped with a bad mortar color----I've never seen a pool as far as I can tell that didn't have buff or just regular light gray mortar----so I had no clue to specify especially when all my my PB's pools looked to be to be a buff shade of mortar. All of their gallery pics and the 4 pools of theirs I visited....See Morechristy25
4 years ago
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