Thanks I found out it's a pink arrowhead houseplant. :)

Thanks! I've heard of the purple hyacinth vine too, but is there any possibility of getting it NOT as seed? Or scarlet runners? Even something that will make it partway thru the summer would be better than nothing. I was thinking about tomatoes in a couple of big containers -- hoping to find some Celebrity -- but I hadn't thought of growing them up the wall. My main criteria for back there is "green," so getting some tomatoes (or ANY tomatoes) out of it would be a bonus. Will tomato vines live through the summer here, even if they aren't setting fruit? I'll check out okra, and sunflowers might be cool. You've got me thinking outside the box now. Heck, maybe I'll try some corn back there, or some other type of bean or pea. Direct sow and see what happens. Again, if it doesn't do "all that well" or gets fried or eaten or makes a bit of a mess back there I won't be heartbroken. I just want a bit of a screen that won't be a nightmare to get rid of later. One other option would be something viney that is quick and long-term but controllable -- if it would stay on the wall behind the roses and not try to eat them, that would be completely acceptable. I just don't want cat claw or something horrific like that.

The yard-long beans are prolific in hot-humid weather, also the Florida speckled butter bean (a Lima bean) will also produce very well. Cow peas will also withstand our hot-humid weather in summer. The problem with most other bean varieties even though they will flower the high humidity during our summer rainy season causes the pollen to clump together and not pollinate the flowers. Lou

Probably not or borderline. Worst problems: lack of moisture outside and high temps that can help dry out plants with big leaves. But a hydrangea addict in the UAE was trying (inside the house) so I suppose you could try and report your experience here. They grow in my neck of the woods, where temperatures can stay daily in the 100s from late June or July thru September but, my temps rarely hit the 110-115s. Meaning maybe we spike and hit those temps a handful (0-5 times) of times per summer... but we do not get those temps on a regular basis and our humidity levels are higher. You may want to experiment with just one plant to see what do you learn. Care of the plant (at first) will require paying attention often... to monitor what is going on with ht eplant (getting enough water? sunlight? etc) so, if you only have time to plant and no more, try something else as this may not be easy. As mentioned before, I do get more humidity in the air here, which helps; hydrangeas do not like places with low humidity like the inside of homes. and deserts... :o) People who grow them inside homes have to address that need. You typically get about 50% at night in the desert and that may help the plant recover from lower levels of 10% in the daytime and 30% in winter. Your cold winter air can hold less water vapor so do not forget to water them in Winter, especially when the plants go dormant and you cannot "see" problems by looking at the leaves. So, insert a finger into the soil to ck soil moisture and water if the soil feels dry or almost dry to a depth of 4". I would try with a compact hydrangea shrub under 5 or 6'; the smaller, the better so light/hot winds will cause less of a water/moisture loss. Select a spot where they get shade starting around 11am in the summer months (or earlier). Any location that gives dappled sun or maybe just 2-4hrs might be enough from a sunlight perspective. You can also introduce the shrub to sunlight slowly by using chairs or umbrellas if things are too bright. Make sure they have a supply of water, that the soil drains well and the soil pH can be amended to be around 7 or less. Caliche soil may be a problem. Then evaluate the location again from a wind perspective; meaning "how are the winds in that location in the summer?". When temperatures get very hot, mopheads loose moisture thru their big leaves so anything that can block wind would be helpful. And not just strong winds. Even light slow winds at high temps can case them to wilt and look sad. But, over here, they recover on their own by nightfall or by the next morning (provided that the soil is moist). I use lots of mulch (3-4") and apply it past the drip line. When it is in the 100s daily, I water via drip twice a week and manually once a week with a hose. About 1 gallon in Spring and 1-2g in Summer per watering per plant. You may also want to try one mophead and/or one oakleaf since oakleaf hydrangeas are more drought tolerant. Perhaps also try putting them in a pot for a year until you find the perfect spot and then plant them there at a time when it is not hot, like in the Fall or Winter. Otherwise, if you do not pot it, you might have to plant and transplant again until you find a good spot. Luis