Okay. Well, that's what I thought you were saying initially, and that's the question gobluedjm, rhizo_1, and I answered. You just didn't like the answer. As oakleyok said, most plants can hold themselves together for three weeks, even if they're not at all suited for long-term cultivation indoors. There might also be some miscommunication on the meaning of "foliage" in this context: most indoor plants either have fairly plain leaves but pretty flowers, or pretty leaves and plain flowers; the latter are referred to as "foliage plants" because the leaves, not the flowers, are the point. Some foliage plants are every bit as colorful as the flowering ones, it's just that the color comes from the leaves instead of the flowers. Plants that are grown for their flowers tend to be a lot more demanding, especially with respect to light levels, because it takes a lot of energy to build flowers. Foliage plants are sometimes just as demanding, especially if they're brightly-colored (pigments also take more energy to produce; only chlorophyll actually helps the plant collect energy) but there are a lot more choices among the foliage plants than with the bloomers. Some of the more colorful, easier-maintenance plants I can think of that should work for a largish, unobstructed north window, but aren't likely to produce flowers there: Aglaonema 'Brilliant' (cream, yellow, green) or 'Silver Bay,' 'Silverado,' or 'Diamond Bay' (silver, green, dark green), plus a gazillion other varieties Chlorophytum comosum (green, and then different varieties may also be striped with white, cream or yellow) Chlorophytum x 'Fire Flash' (orange, green) Chamaedorea metallica (silver-gray, greenish-gray) Dracaena deremensis 'Lemon-Lime' (green, white, chartreuse), 'Warneckei' (gray, dark green, white) or 'Limelight' (yellow, chartreuse, green) Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (yellow, green) Dracaena marginata 'Colorama' (pink, red, green) Epipremnum aureum (yellow, green), 'Marble Queen' (white, various shades of green), 'N'Joy' (white, green) Haworthia attenuata (dark green, white) Philodendron hederaceum 'Brasil' (green, yellow) or 'Lemon-Lime' (green, chartreuse, orange) Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii' (yellow, silver-green, dark green) and 'Black Gold' (very dark green, yellow) Saxifraga stolonifera (gray, white, gray-red) Syngonium podophyllum (assorted varieties; colors may include green, white, chartreuse, pink, red, or yellow, in various shades, combinations, and patterns) Yucca guatemalensis (usually plain-green, but there are varieties out there with yellow margins or gray-green stripes)

A quick review of the second paragraph in my post above will reveal that cuttings tend to retain the growth phase of the material they are taken from. Your cuttings, taken from sexually mature parts of the plant retain the ontogenetic age of the parent material, so are sexually mature. If your plant was to produce a basal sprout, regardless of the plants age,and you severed/rooted it, you would have to wait for the basal sprout to move through the growth phases before the leaf form changes; this, because the basal part of the plant is ontogenetically youngest and the cutting would retain the more juvenile growth phase of the plant part from which it was taken. Most of the variegated houseplants we would grow are chimeral or pigmentary in nature, but a few (Abutilon) might be viral, and several are commonly the result of reflection (mostly the gray variegates). Trees have an expected life span for a couple of reasons. The first is, we know how fast they usually grow, and the second is, we know the limits of the tree's ability to move water and nutrients to distal parts of the tree. Trees genetically programmed to grow slowly and with the ability to move water efficiently to distal parts grow oldest. Trees die from mechanical injury, dysfunction, or energy depletion, but not old age, per se. Aging in animals is measured in the rate of cellular autolysis (breakdown):cell restoration. Trees are much different because they can't regenerate cells in the same spatial planes, so we look to the ratio between the volume of living wood being walled off and the volume of living wood with cells being generated. To understand this concept, you would need to be somewhat familiar with how trees compartmentalize injuries. A tree must be generating more cells than it is losing through compartmentalization, shedding, and mechanical disruption every growing period, or it is dying. In situ trees usually die from energy depletion, which is often resultant of mechanical injury. The ratio of dynamic mass to non-living mass and infected mass is important to survival. Young trees are nearly all dynamic mass and have a very strong 'will to live'. Old trees exhibit a much lower % of dynamic mass & exhibit a reduced ability to resist mechanical injury, stress, and strain. Trees don't often die as a result of mechanical injury, dysfunction, or energy depletion alone; these processes start them along the road to death. After a certain point, the trend is irreversible, dysfunction systemic, and there will be a wide variety of agents using energy stored by the host. In consideration of the above, we can see why bonsai trees are able to survive for centuries, where their counterparts in the landscape are only able to survive for a fraction of the time a bonsai can. This plays directly on the ratio of dynamic mass & the number of cells being generated, vs static mass & the trees inability to regenerate. Al

I was just outside watering my porch plants and thought of your question because I have a few "combo pots." So I realized I have some general advice that may help. Plants with similar needs (light/water) should be grouped together. If you juggle some tall plants, and some short, you can fit more in each pot. The philodendron and english ivy can be transported as cuttings in water if you get really desperate for space. When I have to move plants in a moving truck, I try to pack the back of the truck with the plants in mind, so they have a place to sit where they won't be able to tip over. A laundry basket or box can help several pots hold each other up. Put each pot in a plastic bag, leave open, but pull the plastic as high as possible. If anything does tip over, the dirt will stay in the bag, and the plastic sheath may help prevent breakage of stems.

As long as the bulb is marked as "daylight," and gives off light in the 6,500K color temperature range, it'll work just fine. I've used 100-watt equivalent bulbs before with no problems. That would be the minimum wattage I'd recommend, so 150- or 200-watt equivalent would work even better. I don't see any problems with using a 150-watt equivalent bulb, just so long as it's marked as the 6,500K color spectrum.