These are some of mine! A micro mini trailing African violet (the others around it are all mini African violets) Some miniature gardens I put together with plants that like being indoors (ignore the dead Serissa in the back of the oval one - I've been hoping it'll come back, but my hope is fading...). Pen for scale.

Josh, you're not the only member here who has planted house plants in the ground. :) Karate. Planting in the ground has its pros and cons, unfortunately, more cons than pros. Pros...plants will grow like weeds. Con. Depending on the plant, it might grow too big. For example. One spring I planted two, 1' Musas/Banana Trees in the ground. By autumn, they stood over 15' tall, 7-9' wide. Because of their sizes, I had to leave them out to die. I also planted a 7" Brugmansia. By autumn, it stood 3-4' tall. I dug up the Brug..many roots broke, but not enough to kill it. The following spring, I planted the Brug in ground again. It grew another 2-3', and bloomed profusely. From then on, it was kept in a large container. I also planted a few palms and a hardy Citrus. The palms didn't put on much growth, but foliage was full, compact and very green. Some of your plants would do okay in ground, but don't forget the cons.. Cons: Broken roots, bugs, disease. If you decide to plant in the garden, when you dig up, hose entire plant, including roots. Some of your plants that could be planted in the garden: Jerusalem Cherry Ardisia Elephant Ear Canna Opuntias Most of your other plants would do fine outdoors, in pots. Be very careful with the Pothos and Philo. Leaves could burn. Keep us posted..Toni

A quick review of the second paragraph in my post above will reveal that cuttings tend to retain the growth phase of the material they are taken from. Your cuttings, taken from sexually mature parts of the plant retain the ontogenetic age of the parent material, so are sexually mature. If your plant was to produce a basal sprout, regardless of the plants age,and you severed/rooted it, you would have to wait for the basal sprout to move through the growth phases before the leaf form changes; this, because the basal part of the plant is ontogenetically youngest and the cutting would retain the more juvenile growth phase of the plant part from which it was taken. Most of the variegated houseplants we would grow are chimeral or pigmentary in nature, but a few (Abutilon) might be viral, and several are commonly the result of reflection (mostly the gray variegates). Trees have an expected life span for a couple of reasons. The first is, we know how fast they usually grow, and the second is, we know the limits of the tree's ability to move water and nutrients to distal parts of the tree. Trees genetically programmed to grow slowly and with the ability to move water efficiently to distal parts grow oldest. Trees die from mechanical injury, dysfunction, or energy depletion, but not old age, per se. Aging in animals is measured in the rate of cellular autolysis (breakdown):cell restoration. Trees are much different because they can't regenerate cells in the same spatial planes, so we look to the ratio between the volume of living wood being walled off and the volume of living wood with cells being generated. To understand this concept, you would need to be somewhat familiar with how trees compartmentalize injuries. A tree must be generating more cells than it is losing through compartmentalization, shedding, and mechanical disruption every growing period, or it is dying. In situ trees usually die from energy depletion, which is often resultant of mechanical injury. The ratio of dynamic mass to non-living mass and infected mass is important to survival. Young trees are nearly all dynamic mass and have a very strong 'will to live'. Old trees exhibit a much lower % of dynamic mass & exhibit a reduced ability to resist mechanical injury, stress, and strain. Trees don't often die as a result of mechanical injury, dysfunction, or energy depletion alone; these processes start them along the road to death. After a certain point, the trend is irreversible, dysfunction systemic, and there will be a wide variety of agents using energy stored by the host. In consideration of the above, we can see why bonsai trees are able to survive for centuries, where their counterparts in the landscape are only able to survive for a fraction of the time a bonsai can. This plays directly on the ratio of dynamic mass & the number of cells being generated, vs static mass & the trees inability to regenerate. Al

One gallon is not too small, especially if they are pruned. If your intention is to produce fruit then the more light the better(if temps are not right, they may bloom but drop blossoms). If you are just wintering them over for production next season, just see how they do with window light. You may still have to prune or pinch and rotate them if they get too leggy over the winter. JMO Peruse the 'over wintering' threads on the Hot Pepper forum for info. Many pepper growers bring their plants inside for the winter. HTH