The road to the left is an easement for the neighbors, the street is to the right. The block is wet from our 6" rainfall in 3 days..but yes, there is quite the flow when there is a downpour. The yard rises up at a steep angle on the left so it will be hard to redirect the flow....it mainly comes from the top of the yard through the grass. I just don't want the dirt to runoff anymore and would like to plant something there after I take care of the water. There is alot of root and I plan on throwing some topping down but needless to say after the water prob is fixed.

Stone work is typically somewhat regional in nature.....you don't see a lot of New England type dry stacked stone walls around here because the stone typically used to build these walls is not native. And much of the cost of stone is associated with where it comes from -- be prepared to pay a LOT if you want something that had to be imported, like Connecticut blue stone. Most dry stacked stone walls and certainly those using the smaller, layered stones like you see in New England also have little structural integrity - they are typically used more as ornamental features rather as a retaining wall/slope support or with any kind of soil weight behind it. How tall a wall do you wish to build and what is its purpose? About the only dry stacked walls I've seen around here are the large landscape boulder rock walls or recycled concrete chunks. Of these, only the concrete chunks can be considered a DIY project.

For those interested in the custom skim cover solution, I did some homework. I called the owner of Environmental Pools who gave me the name of the product they used. It�s available at www.pouralid.com. It was designed to pour concrete, Kool-Deck or aggregate into, but clearly from this example it can be used for pavers too. And the price is incredibly reasonable. I called up the company and got the owner there too and he was a super nice guy and worked out overnighting two covers for me since my deck is almost done. They arrived bright and early and fit perfectly into my standard skimmer. If your contractor doesn�t have them, you can order them online at www.waterlev.com. A few notes. The cover, again designed to have a concrete pour, is not nearly as deep as the full height of the Blu pavers so my landscaper is having to thin the paver out, which is fine because that will make it lighter. And they will need to mortar it to the lid base. Also, the cover comes in three parts. It has a plastic cover of whatever color you ordered (I picked grey but there are several choices), so even if you didn�t do the custom application you would still get away from white. Then it had the lid itself that you pour or adhere the paver too. Then, and this is key, it has its own neck/frame that the lid sits in so that your concrete or pavers can be secured up against the lid without impeding it. Great design, and again surprisingly affordable. I�m really happy I saw this here so thanks to the OP.

Much of the discussion here is based on semantics and what is referred to as "X" in Ohio could just as easily be referred to as "Y" in Tennessee even though it is the identical product. Local terminology is a reference point as there are no industry naming standards for natural stone. Cast concrete products will have proprietary names. @Omega is correct when he says to ask for material that is 8" deep (if it's available in your market). Here in northern Illinois that material comes from Wisconsin and any contractor I know and any quarry or distributor I know would refer to it as "cut drywall" or "snap-cut drywall". The lengths are random but the depth is nominally 8". It comes in thicknesses ranging from 2"-3" all the way up to 8". The next two photos are both "cut drywall". When I ordered the stone for these two projects I simply called the distributor and asked for " X tons of 2"-3" cut drywall". At that point I can be comfortable knowing that I will be getting product that is 2"-3" thick, 8" deep and in random lengths. Coverage on this product is roughly 18 face feet (square feet) per ton. @Omega is also correct in his first post, saying that you CAN build your short wall out of this material. It still requires compacted stone base like a taller wall. If you look at the top photo and visualize only two course of stone above grade that would be your finished height. From the bottom up you would have 6" of stone base, one course of wall below grade and two courses of wall above grade. When well-built these walls can last for 40-50 years, even longer without an ounce of mortar. That being said, base on your original photos the "wall" appears to border a driveway and cut drywall is probably not ideal for your situation. The recommendations of NHBabs and Gardengal48 are infinitely better for your situation based on the photos you posted. The pic posted by @Gardengal48 would be a much better selection for your application and requires far less skill to install than cut drywall. While not available in all markets Techo-Bloc makes a wide assortment of pre-cast bed edging. One of their products is named Belgik after natural Belgian block edging. See link below for assorted options. https://www.techo-bloc.com/en/product-category/edges/ @Gardengal48 is also correct when she says flagstone is not normally used for walls, but rather in flatwork. Below are two photos of what we locally call flagstone. The first is a an oversized pathway of flagstone set on a gravel base but with mulch in the joints so it looks less refined based on the woodland setting. Bergenia and Hosta flank this path into the backyard. This path has been in place since 2002 and looks as good today as it did back then. The second photo is a walkway to the front door and as you can see it is mortared into place and a more polished aesthetic. These are usually done on top of concrete which is "under-poured" in anticipation of the flagstone depth. This is a high-skill flagstone installation. In the end, the skill of your contractor is going to dictate the success of the installation. NHBabs and Gardengal were being kind describing the current installation as 'strange' and 'poorly executed' as I look back at your photos. Show your contractor some photos of what you want and simply ask, "Can you implement this work?". If they fidget, look down at their feet or start gazing aimlessly at your dogwood then it's time to launch them and hire the next man or woman standing. Good luck with your project!!