IMO you did a really poor job of the foam and now I have no idea the foam should have been in between the rafters if you were planning on covering it

agree

You need to shave it down.

Are there soffit vents under all that insulation?

You can apply a fire retardant coating to the foam surface if you’re just going to use the attic for occasionally accessed storage. If you’ll be in there frequently, shaving it down and drywalling is probably a better plan.
About fifteen years ago, I had a similar attic spray-foamed and just used it like that for storage. Last year, even the small amount of foam exposed in the rim joists needed fire retardant applied due to code changes.

there were soffits at the eaves of the house and a ridge vent but i was told they wouldn't be needed any more with the insulation . . my big concern is down the line if the roof starts leaking , it will be hard to know especially with the closed foam application

Yes, an unvented attic assembly obviously isn’t vented, and has the insulation at the roof line. As it is, it serves for occasional storage. I’d spray with the intumescent coating, because I’m all about safety.

If humans will spend any time there though, it needs to be safe for them, and be brought up to habitable space standards. If that was the plan, then the electrical should have been run, and rafters should have been furred out before the spray, so that the added R value didn’t impact the reapplication of drywall. Fabric is a big no for anything. It’s also flammable.

I would consider doing a little research to be sure you didn't need venting. The idea of the soffit vents and ridge vents is that air travels between them and out the roof to prevent ice damming on your roof in the winter. Rafters

If you want to insulate the rafter bays rather than the attic floor in order to make the attic a heated space, baffles are even more important for proper air circulation. Baffles establish a channel for air to circulate between the insulation and the roof sheathing. As with attic floor insulation, moisture and heat removal are the reasons for creating proper air movement. Run baffles the entire length of the rafter bay from the soffit vent to the ridge vent, then add batting insulation over the baffles.

Sorry but I think you needed to keep the venting, not sure who told you no I have never done that no matter what kind of insulation I used.

Looks like you found out how much the foam expands. I don’t know if you will ever know if the roof leaks in the attic, how would the water get through the foam? As far as venting you have a window that you might have to use to vent now. You could cover it with a flame rated fabric, Insul-quilt, but it is expensive. Would be easy to install with the foam by using stick clips.

Where are you located? If there is no venting then moisture coming from the house has no way to escape. It will probably be very humid and condensation on the foam surfaces could occur if the conditions are right. You could leave the window open but that would defeat the purpose of installing all of this foam.

In case you're questioning your decision, you do not need venting for your roof.

An unvented attic assembly, by definition, does not need venting. It’s the more advanced building science approach. https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic-ventilation

Depending on where you are located and what type of foam is used, you may need 8-10" of foam to meet required code R value. The way this attic was sprayed would be very typical for making a conditioned (unvented attic) using spray foam. When you create conditioned space there is no longer any requirement for venting the attic, so all soffit vents and gable vents are covered over.

However, foam by itself does not provide a flame barrier, so if you want to use the attic for storage it should have been sprayed with fire retardent or framed so that you could reinstall the sheetrock as a flame/heat barrier. In its current condition it is not code-compliant to use it for storage or habitation.

Full disclosure - we had a similar spray foam installation last fall (Icynene open cell) and my foam is even thicker than what you see in the pictures. However, I went up in the attic to change HVAC filters this winter and found that the attic temperature was only about 5 degrees different than the bedrooms under it, so it has definitely reduced the heat loss. We also had the walls and crawl space foamed in a small new two-story addition, and it stayed almost as warm as the rest of the house before we got the heating system hooked up. YMMV.

Bruce

I would recommend monitoring the temperature and humidity levels. You could attach an inexpensive meter on an exposed roof rafter. If the humidity goes above 50% in the winter then there could be moisture problems.

thanks to all of you for your extremely helpful comments. we live around the boston area

where it gets very cold in the winter. we were told there was no need for venting after the foam was installed. I plan on using 1x3s over the foam , screwing into the rafters, needing 4 inch screws and then putting 1/2 inch 4x8 dry wall over the strapping. not sure if that is adequate as a fire retardant or not but will look into it more. garyw

1/2" drywall meets code. Good luck with your installation!

You could use foil insulation that comes in rolls to cover the foam. It’s 24 inches wide, thin, stick pins could be used to hold in place, inexpensive compared to drywall and it is fire rated to meet code. It would look okay but would be a lot easier to install then drywall. Good luck for whatever you do.

No. Not approved for this installation. A "thermal barrier" is required by code.

Foil with a fire rating is a thermal barrier.

Think about it. How fast would fire burn through aluminum foil compared with 1/2" gypsum board?

Just a suggestion. Go with the drywall.

From the photos, it appears that you've constructed an unvented (conditioned) attic-- which, as @The Cook's Kitchen pointed out--by definition, does not require ventilation.

I'm a proponent of conditioned attics and crawl spaces and the use of spray foam (SPF) insulation in their construction. The construction details vary by climate zone and application. I strongly encourage anyone interested in designing and constructing an unvented attic or crawl space to consult a local building science professional and your local code official before doing so.

Now, back to the OP's situation....

Depending on the specific spray foam insulation installed, the application thickness, and other requirements, a prescriptive thermal barrier or ignition barrier may not be needed to comply with the applicable building code--yes, really! You'll need to refer to the Technical Evaluation Report (TER) for the particular insulation material to see what is required in your climate zone.

your are on the right track with your last post. install furring strips the install sheetrock and tape all seams.

fire barrier complete and looks ok.

the foam overfilling rafter bays is to reach required insulation value for your climate.

(hopefully...closed cell is about R-6.5 per inch, open cell R-4 per inch.

Rvalue x inches = code requirements

good for you on your unvented attic!

best of luck

thanks so much did the furring strips and the drywall so worked ok