Traditional Wood-Burning Fireplace or Slow-Burner?
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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Convert wood burning fireplace insert to Gas only
Comments (1)A fireplace "insert" is intended to fit into a pre-existing masonry fireplace. I assume you mean a metal factory built "zero clearance" wood burning fireplace for new construction The wood burning fireplace "duct" you mention is a chimney whether it is masonry or metal. You can add gas to the firebox or put a gas log kit in it but the chimney must still be designed for a wood burning fireplace and sized for the fire box opening (unless you want to pay for it to be tested by UL). You need to either try harder to get the chimney offsets to work or use a metal factory built gas fireplace already tested by UL with a B-vent through the roof. Factory built gas fireplaces are made in two types: Direct vent and B-vent. The Direct Vent unit has a double-walled metal vent pipe that can terminate on an outside wall or through the roof. It is a closed system so the fireplace gets combustion air from outside through the outer wall of the vent and the firebox has a fixed glass enclosures. The B-vent unit has a single-walled vent that can only terminate through the roof. The fireplace takes combustion air from the room so it can be open to the room. Many of the units have folding glass doors. Carefully read the instruction for installing the vent. Consider an optional outside air supply duct to the firebox....See MoreTraditional Wood Burning Fireplace - FMI Georgian
Comments (16)About 15 years ago we moved in to a ranch and noticed the brick masonry fireplace had been converted to gas. We used it for a year and decided we just really didn't like it. So we capped the gas and donated the ceramic logs and fake "coals" underneath and made it into a wood burner again, though we kept the glass doors. We used them a ton and really liked how it kept down (reduced, definitely did not eliminate) the cold air coming down into the house when we weren't using the fire. We had an energy person come in and assess the fireplace, and he said it was so bad to have the glass doors there but nothing else that he recommended putting some sort of insulator over the fireplace when it wasn't in use. Haven't seen any of that but it got me thinking and now I'll have to look for something more efficient. Now we bought an old tri level that had a big fireplace in the lower level. We took it out but saved the insert. Now we realize we really want a wood-burning fireplace again, for all the reasons listed by jujubean, so we'll likely sell the insert on Craigslist. I thought we'd just have someone come in and build one adjacent to our living room on the main level (the other side of that wall is the garage) and now that I see the FMI Georgian I'm thinking that maybe we can just buy one of those and have the fireplace folks put in the rest. We also have a tile roof and aren't sure how to get an opening through that puppy. Finally, the wood burning fireplace is only allowed as a grandfathered one in this city. One can only put a gas fireplace in now, so there is that as well....See MoreNew Build-Advice for Wood burning fireplace
Comments (5)Hi Gladys, I am aware of how much more efficient wood stoves are (and am considering one for the basement), but really want the look of a fireplace in the family room. I did see a double sided fireplace with what looks like an insert (see link) but am not sure if that is as high efficient as some of the inserts out there for masonry fireplaces. Setting the double sided feature aside, are there fairly efficient wood burning fireplaces out there that don't require a full masonry chimney? I'm having trouble understanding how the prefab wood burning fireplaces work (why aren't footings required, for example). Investing 10K on a masonry fireplace, then getting an insert is just too much money, but building a masonry fireplace and letting most of the heat go up the chimney doesn't make sense either. thanks Here is a link that might be useful: Acucraft Fireplace...See Morewood burning fireplace insert
Comments (10)@Annie: Thank you for the link, it's from a reliable source so I am considering carefully what it says. Both of our stoves are connected to outside air and have been for decades. The inlets are on the typically upwind side of the house. Except of course, when we're having a Nor'easter. This house was built before the Civil War and has no insulation in its wall cavities (and none is possible due to the contruction of the wall assembly). So it defines a "leaky house". No problems here with "sick-building" issues related to being too tightly sealed. Sometimes I think we might as well be living outside! When we installed the O/A inlets it made an immediate difference in the draftiness of the rooms so I would be reluctant to go back, but fire safety is a paramount concern for us so I will be talking to my husband about this. We have no other combustion stacks (obviously no furnace or boiler, and our DHW is electric) so we have no carbon monoxide risks with or withhut the OCA. But I am planning on installing powerful vent fan in the current kitchen which is where the wood-burning stove is. (I'm moving the kitchen to another room to get away from the woodstove, but it will still close enough to be affected by the fan's power, I think.) I'm picturing in my mind the pathway of the combustion air within our stove and trying to decide if I have a risk of drawing super-heated air or coals back down into the combustion inlet piping (which is utterly unshielded along its entire length as it lies slap up against the wood sheathing of the wood room) if the system was depressurized, and I think not. But this is particular to my stove, and model, and not true for many other stoves that would simply feed the air directly into the firebox. I really appreciate the heads up and will ponder it some more, especially as we are slowly getting around to installing the new stove (which likely has an intake air pathway that is completely different.) @mjlb: LOL at your DH's association to arched doors and a crematorium. Fortunately the woodburning stoves like the Jotul, while perhaps slightly arched on top have lovely glass doors that don't seem like crematoria, at least to me. Soapstone (or other masonry) thermal mass stoves are fab, but not really the same fire-appreciation sense as any fire place or regular woodstove. They are intended to burn much smaller, hotter fires, often only a couple of times per day. They also are not really retrofitable into an existing hearth and chimney stack since they require different stack pathways and massing. Plus they are extremely heavy and must have a substantial foundation. I love them though, and am considering converting from woodstoves to masonry as we age in place. Woodstoves require such constant vigilance for safety and a considerable amount of physical activity to attend (even leaving aside processing the fuel from tree to firewood) that I can see it may be a problem at some point. We're in our 60's now. With no other source of heat if we couldn't burn wood we'd have to leave the house. My late MIL in the last year or two before she died had issues around her wood heating and cooking arrangements. Her cognition was becoming muzzy enough that I had decided she couldn't live alone there another heating season. Plus as she became frailer just loading the logs into her stove started to become a problem. I remember one miserable day when I split her entire winter's wood down into smaller pieces because she was forbidden to pick up anything more than 2 lbs. She wept the whole time I did it, and I felt so sad for her. A masonry stove since it is fired only two, or at most three times a day could be managed by someone paid to come in and attend to it. The rest of the day it just radiates heat, mildly enough so that you can sit on it safely. I considered getting a soapstone-walled woodstove before choosing the cast-iron Jotul. The soapstone walls are NOT safer to touch than cast-iron (unlike a masonry heater made of soapstone which relies on thermal mass). And having looked at several in the shop being repaired (cracking) we decided to stick with the familar cast-iron. There is one nagging issue for me around wood-burning: it can contribute to diminshed air quality from particulates in the smoke. When you get a whiff of a wood-burn, it usually smells quite pleasant, but in truth you are inhaling particulates and smoke, even in the cleanest, most efficient burning ones. One wood-stove is a trivial air degradation, but wood-burners in every household is a community problem. In many parts of the UK (and some cities here in the US) wood-burning, not to mention coal which is even worse air-quality-wise, is illegal. Stilll this is a harsh climate and some form of heat is necessary. As we have the woods (and generally only use thinnings and blow-downs), and process it on the farm, it seems environmentally better than oil or worse, fracked gas. But it is not totally environmentally benign. We have installed more solar panels to make power, and will add more to provide some electric heating capacity as well. There are no free lunches when it comes to heating in a cold climate. L....See More- 4 years ago
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